very good information!

one thing i would like to add about the whole misfire issue and not feeling it is that the engine could have been making even misfires balancing themselves out into a state where you can't feel them but the knocks still sense them.

 

very good information!

X2...info forum?

 

Stock, stick with the stock plugs, stock gap and you are good to go, upgrading the plugs on a completely stock engine provides no gains at all. Stock plugs are either Bosch F7LTCR, or NGK BCP6ET

What about NGK PFR6Q? This is what most 1.8T Passats use. havent heard about the BCP6ET

 

I was talking to a parts guy at a local VW dealer a while back. he said some early 1.8T's use Bosch, but most use NGK. I assumed the only NGK they used was the PFR6Q, but I could very well be wrong.

 

98-99 used Bosch, 2000 was a crap shoot, i've pulled both bosch and NGK out of the 2000's both where 3 electrode plugs and the local parts place listed both of them for the 2000 passat.

 

Stock, stick with the stock plugs, stock gap and you are good to go, upgrading the plugs on a completely stock engine provides no gains at all. Stock plugs are either Bosch F7LTCR, or NGK BCP6ET

I thought that the NGK PFR6Q were stock. Some reason not to use those?

 

yes those are stock, the BCP6ET is a stock equivelent plug with mulit electrodes wher the PRR6Q is a single. i've always prefered the multi electrodes cause i've found less misfires than the single on most cars.

so if i search ngk BKR7E on ebay, i can choose any plug on there or would i have to find one specific to my vehicle? or are they all the same as in thread, protrusion depth, and size?

yes you are right the numbers given are the part number that you need to fit the passat. they are all the correct thread, protrusion, etc.

 

so if i search ngk BKR7E on ebay, i can choose any plug on there or would i have to find one specific to my vehicle? or are they all the same as in thread, protrusion depth, and size?

 

My 99 1.8T was chipped, bigger turbo, full catback exhaust upgrade. Never had a problem with the Bosch OEM plugs (F7LTC).

 

what BT did you have, if your talking k04 thats not a big turbo oke:, you also used GIAC software didnt you? GIAC has a very good reputation for tuning using the stock plugs, its APR that can have issues with plugs once you go with other mods besides a chip

I have been using the Denso K20PBR-S10 on my 99 AEB 1.8T. I think this is what vwb5t meant by Denso iK20. Also known as Denso 5061. Copper plug, 3 electrodes. Stock engine, 117,000 miles. I have been replacing them every 30,000 miles, probably earlier than necessary, and I am currently on my 3rd set of this plug. Never any problems. Very inexpensive, about $15-20 for 4. Autozone used to carry them, but most recently I got them from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012Q83EQ

K20PBR-S10 is a copper multi electrode plug, the IK20 is an iridium single electrode plug which is about $12 a plug, the denso's work great on a stock engine, i tried the K20PBR-S10 at one point and it ran good on a chipped k03

 

I have been using the Denso K20PBR-S10 on my 99 AEB 1.8T. I think this is what vwb5t meant by Denso iK20. Also known as Denso 5061. Copper plug, 3 electrodes. Stock engine, 117,000 miles. I have been replacing them every 30,000 miles, probably earlier than necessary, and I am currently on my 3rd set of this plug. Never any problems. Very inexpensive, about $15-20 for 4. Autozone used to carry them, but most recently I got them from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012Q83EQ

 

Has anyone done this much research for the plugs in a 2.8 V6?

 

WHat would you possibly need any other plug than stock for a V6, perhaps if was SCed but why bother.

I don't have a 1.8t and don't modify the ones I work on but if somebody made a stronger ignition to put up with the increased cylinder pressures that are made when you start messing with the turbo then the most you would ever probably have to do is go down one heat range on the plug.

 

Some more basic info, some may be lifted from Rusty's post:

Denso stock 5062 K20PBR-S10
Denso stock Iridium 5304 IK20
NGK PFR7Q not rec
NGK PFR6Q not rec
Bosch RS4 stock F5DP0R
Bosch F5DTC
Bosch FR5DTC
Bosch F7LTCR stock; w/Stg3

99+kmi - have NGK BKUR6ET stock #2397 as replacement for APR Stg3 Bosch Super R1 482 F7LTCR plugs.
Autolite 3923 doesn't work well
AC Delco 5 doesn't work well
NGK 2397 BKUR6ET-10 appears to work well

 

NGK BKR7E's on a GT3076R @ 25 psi :thumbup:

gapped to .024, never has a misfire yet :wrench:

 

thanks to this spark plug guide, my misfire under boost is gone!!!! i used the One stage colder BKR7E gapped to .026 and its perfect. thanks vwb5t!!!

 

Thanks Sipes,

I didn't mean to sound stupid, I own a used B5.5 and have been getting a rich burn code and I can feel a slight missfire. I was thinking it may be the plugs and checked, the previous owner had put in a set of autolite plugs Just wasn't sure what they were to be. Thanks!

 

If you get a chance try these BE1 plugs at .025 gap and tell me what you think, Pulstar
Free

 

I have been very curious about those...anyone tried them yet?

 

One stage colder - Bosch F6DTC

My '99 1.8 has 191,000+ miles. I started testing plugs 100,000 miles ago. Nothing extreme about my engine - chipped to 1.1 atmosphere, full cat back exhaust system with a K&N in the OEM airbox. Forge DV with APR tubing on both intake and exhaust side. OEM K03 with my engine compression at +/- 172 in all fours. My TB has been cleaned annually. Seafoamed 1 - 2X a year.

By trial I determined that, BY FAR, the best plug for my car is the Bosch F6DTC. I also discovered that a new set of F6DTCs allows my engine to start instantly, even during very cold New England winter mornings.

Another factor is that, even with my engine mods (and reudince unsuspended weight as much as possible), I regularly get 36 mpg. on the highway. I regularly get 450 to 460 mpg while traveling lite. Even long term, combined mpg as noted on my #2 trip computer is consistently 28.5 mpg.

Only down side - I lose the plug's benefits after 10 to 11,000 miles. But at only $3.48/plug it's not a big deal to swap plugs every 6 months or so.

 

I have those Pulstar's just put them in, hard to tell a difference when the car is so quick and smooth. what i can say is an average trip i take went from 23.3mpg to 26.1 mpg.

 

hmmmmm... with a money back guarantee I might have to give them a try, but I want to try the one heat range colder version, did you order them or get them locally?

 

I ordered from Schucks Auto 1-2 days. Nice to have that warranty local for exchanges or returns, I did drown a plug in water and get it to fail, easy exchange under warranty. Note the Hitachi Type E coil does not keep the water out like the stock coils do. USE A TORQUE WRENCH don't go by feel or 1/4 1/3 crap. Don't be lazy if you have it use it... 20-22 FT LBS

 

so what would you guys suggest for a 03 turbo with 87K on it
intake and speedtuning usa flash, running at 15 PSI

(right now i have a P0300 code, random misfires and a P0420 code, catalitic in efficience)

 

i would try the NGK bkr7e gapped at .028, it should clear up the missfire issues unless its your coils having issues but that is usually only a few cylinders and not random.

 

Nice post thank you. Going to try one stage cooler come the summer time. Car got programed with GIAC last summer and loves to ping when it's hot outside and when building boost.

 

I'm using the PFR7B Laser Platinum plugs for some time now, these are 1 heat range colder than the stock PFR6Q and are also part of the APR stage III kit. I've had no issues so far with these and the engine always starts first crank.

 

A lot of the SC V6 guys run the BKR7E's gapped to 0.028, myself included.

 

I have an Upsolute 94 chipped ECU, I've got a tiny burp when I'm idling after reading this I want to go pickup

Bosch
One stage colder F6DTC

I remember reading way back when I first changed my plugs how much they should be torqued anyone have that info?

 

I remember reading way back when I first changed my plugs how much they should be torqued anyone have that info?

30Nm

 

so around 22 ft/lbs?

 

or about 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn with a wrench after the plug bottoms out by hand, that will get you close to the right torque.

 

.028 inches = 0.711 mm

 

awesomeness

i have a 0.71 feeler gauge


ooooooone more last question (i seem to say that a lot)

i came across a set of NGK bkr7e-11s online
can i use those or does the 11 specify something specifaclly different ?

(i guess thats two qeustions)