That looks terrifying, and I'm wondering how the hell it even began to look like that. The only thing I can think of is putting the torx bit on a 3/8" ratchet and gradually increase the torque to loosen the screw until it cracks loose. Once it cracks, use a hand tool. Just make sure the bit is in there good enough to not strip out the screw. It'll become exponentially harder than.

The only thing you're trying to achieve to remove the lock cylinder, in order to remove the lock module, is to get the cable off the exterior door handle.

 

Sounds like either the ignition lock cylinder was changed to a different key, or you've got the valet key. The valet key will not go into certain locks on the car by design.

 

That's what I thought too... Until he said it works in the glovebox. Valet key works in drivers lock cylinder.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

How about cutting the head across with a Dremel and then use a flat head screwdriver?

 

I would suggest that you give it a good squirt a few times over a day or two, with a good penetrating oil or WD40.
Then put a torx bit in the screw and give it a few wacks with a small hammer, being careful not to break anything. And then try to undo it.

 

Very good suggestions.

I did try spraying with penetrating oil for a few days and still no budge. The dremel solution sounds interesting but somehow getting thru the access hole with the correct head could be a challenge. Researching.. I did purchase a screw extractor tho.

Here is a snapshot of the 2 keys. Again they ONLY work in the ignition and glove box. I notice the keys dont enter the respective slots completely (i would expect all the way to base MINUS 5mm) but the cylinders turn so i guess it is by design. For both keys there is an inscribed "W" with a strikthru on the silver at the base near the black area.

 

Here is a snapshot of the 2 keys. Again they ONLY work in the ignition and glove box. I notice the keys dont enter the respective slots completely (i would expect all the way to base MINUS 5mm) but the cylinders turn so i guess it is by design.

Those keys appear to be fine. When the key is inserted in the door lock or ign, there should be about 5-7mm between the lock and key body.

What do you mean ? "they ONLY work in the ignition and glove box. ....but the cylinders turn"
It appears you have cracked solder joints on the micro-switches or faulty switches in the door lock modules,
or maybe a problem with the CCM System.

 

On my old B4, the mounting screw located on the door had a reverse thread. Is this the case on B5/5.5s also?

 

For the record do i turn the door lock cylinder screw "counter-clockwise" to unscrew it out in order to release the cylinder?

 

I took a snapshot of the passenger door lock cylinder screw thru the door access hole. Do you see that piece coming from the top which appears to touch the front of the screw, is that normal? Is it possible these lock cylinders have been welded in place or are some kind of dummy locks?

 

I took a snapshot of the passenger door lock cylinder screw thru the door access hole. Do you see that piece coming from the top which appears to touch the front of the screw, is that normal?

Except for the corrosion, yes.

Is it possible these lock cylinders have been welded in place or are some kind of dummy locks?

Not at all likely.

For the record do i turn the door lock cylinder screw "counter-clockwise" to unscrew it out in order to release the cylinder?

Yes. (It is NOT a left hand thread)

Normally you loosen it just enough to release the cylinder, but in your case, I expect you will be replacing those parts anyway.


Front Door Lock
You should lower the window into the service position (2"-3" open) before you disconnect the battery.
No need to remove the window completely, just tape it up securely. (Put paper/plastic over top of door to protect paint)
taligentx.com: Passat - Door Lock Mechanism Repair

 

I finally got the door lock cylinder out but we had to break a piece to release it. See photos. We still were unable to get the screw out the normal way. When i look at everything i'm not so sure what is salvageable. For now i'm going to soak the door lock cylinder in some Coke to see if it loosens up the cylinder so that i can actually insert the key into the lock. As for the broken piece i'm going to explore replacing the entire assembly which the piece broke off from (which will include the door lock cylinder screw) to resolve this matter. If you have a better suggestion pls chime in

Can someone tell me the name of this part below -- it is located on the inside of the driver's door directly inline with the exterior door handle. I have no clue on how it is fixed in place. It holds the lock cylinder screw and so I'm considering replacing the whole assembly to resolve this corrosion issue...

 

With that much corrosion around the lock mechanism, there's a good chance that you do have the proper keys, and the cylinders are just jammed.