Speed sensor? You mean ABS sensor?

PB Blaster, maybe. Spray and let it soak. Repeat every couple of hours until it finally comes out.

Dynamite may also prove helpful.

 

yep, ABS sensor/speed sensor. in the shaft replacement writeups (both Scuba's old one, and on TaligentX's), they call it a speed sensor. either way, it senses the rotational speed of the wheel, yes? as in, either it's turning or not...
I'll try the PB Blaster. this waiting for PB Blaster to work sucks.

thanks, Rusty.

 

... either way, it senses the rotational speed of the wheel, yes? as in, either it's turning or not...

I guess you have a point there...

 

I guess this means you made your 240 miles?

 

I took today off from work, so I only did 120 miles. good thing, too. the driver's side halfshaft is NOT engaging the hub. it's not easy removing bolts from whre the halfshaft mounts to the tranny when the halfshaft spins freely, even when someone is holding the brakes! the little daughter is standing on the brakes, and I'm asking her, "are you sure you are on the brake? it's the middle pedal of the three, just like I showed you..."

I've put vicegrips on it to hold it in place, and it still isn't enough to allow me to overcome the torque on the bolts...

 

I've put vicegrips on it to hold it in place, and it still isn't enough to allow me to overcome the torque on the bolts...

The vice grip trick worked for me. Maybe you could try a 24" pipe wrench.

 

I got the tranny bolts for the driver's side halfshaft loose, finally. took two pair of vice grips. sheesh.

so all the grinding I was hearing in my previous thread was the halfshaft freewheeling all the time. I was VERY lucky I didn't drop it.

at any rate, I STILL don't have the passenger side speed sensor out yet. anyone got ideas to help?

 

Quick question becuase I will be doing my axles soon.

Any reason I can not use an impact gun to remove the half shaft bolts?

I guess I have another question, how can you get your car to move if the halfshaft is freewheeling? Do our cars not half an open diff? If we do have an open diff wouldn't the freewheeling halfshaft just spin when the car is put in gear instead of the car moving?

Thanks
Tom

Thank you
Tom

 

I don't see a reason other then it would suck to screw up those triple square bolts. With an impact gun you would not have to worry about holding it

 

The reason I ask is I rarely read a thread here that mentions using an impact gun. I use one on my 944 and 944 turbo every chance I get, including the triple square bolts that secure my drive axles.

Any takers on my question about the freewheeling axle mentioned by JaytheSnork?

Thanks
Tom

 

I wonder how many people here have air tools at home.

 

there's no room to get an impact wrench in there. you can use an air ratchet, however, but the problem is when the broken shaft is freewheeling (at least with the air ratchet I borrowed), the air ratchet doesn't have enough torque to break the bolt free before the shaft spun.
like I said, I clamped two sets of vice grips to the shaft and had them rest on the lower control arm.

oh, and you better have an 18" breaker bar handy to loosen the bolt on the hub. even then, I had to stand on it and bounce a bit to get it to break free - this was after I broke a 12" breaker bar...

 

ill be doing this tomorrow
i know at least the my sensor is free.
should i take pics and do a new writup-or rather someone else write it up
or are we all good?
(in case taligentx goes down or bye bye.)

 

I'll be finishing mine tomorrow, scotty! at least everything is ready to come loose...

 

I have a quick and easy way to stop the shaft from spinning to remove the bolts. Put the brake rotor back on and thread 2 wheel bolts into the hub. Then put a screwdriver or prybar in one of the cooling slots on the brake rotor. Rotate rotor till the screwdriver or prybar contacts the brake caliper. Then you can remove the bolts easily!!

 

I hadn't remove the brake rotor. I had a small child (ok, a 12 year old) operating (practically standing) on the brakes. the outer CV joint was trashed.
your suggestion would work well in normal circumstances.

I still need suggestions on how to get the ABS/speed sensor out on the passenger side.

 

When the wheel is removed the brake disk is not actually attached to the hub.
That's why the other poster advised to put a couple of the wheel bolts back through the disk to the hub.
:thumbup:

 

You dont actually have to take it out do you? It can be done with it in place as long as you are carefull removing and refitting the cv joint.

 

If it's frozen, leave it in. Just be very careful when replacing the axle. Line it up and slowly slide it in place. You can also try to push the sensor out after the axle is removed.

Removing the axle does not cause damage. Replacing the axle can catch the sensor and damage it.

I have a nice 24" breaker bar for the axle bolts.

 

Sensor damage

If it's frozen, leave it in. Just be very careful when replacing the axle. Line it up and slowly slide it in place. You can also try to push the sensor out after the axle is removed.

Removing the axle does not cause damage. Replacing the axle can catch the sensor and damage it.

Awesome news, mine are corroded in place. I've tried liquid wrench and prybars and an open end wrench over the sensor body, no luck.
I know I'll damage them getting them out. MN salty winters and 145K miles:banghead:

So there's less likelihood of damage leaving them in place as I carefully reinstall the axles.:thumbup:

When I get the axles out I'll get some pics of the sensor protrusion, so every one can see just what clearance there is to the axle housing.
:beer:

Thanks for an awsome group!!
:b55:

PS: I used my 30" Snap-on 1/2" drive breaker bar and the outer bolt popped loose no problem.

 

ugh, thanks for resurrecting this thread; this was a PITA to do in the garage.

just take your time putting the half-shafts back in place, and you should have no problem.

 

Garage? I have to do this on the apron of my machinery shed shop. Outside. 96 degrees F.

Yeah, I've found very little info on this topic, except warm weather newer cars being upgraded. Not Daily Drivers overdue for repair. Not even on the VWVortex forums.

Everybody says just pull them or spend the money:icon_eek:

I got this far cause I needed new tires and shocks. So I got some Borbet LS 17's and Bridgestone RE90 pole positions to match. And a set of Koni FSD's.
Well Might as well replace the springs too, so I got the H&R OE sport kit for a modest drop and went with their stabilizer bar also.

When I got it apart, I found the passenger outer CV destroyed and the Drivers side cracked but not throwing grease yet. After purchasing the new driveshafts I'd like to be done spending money.
I'll let you know how it turns out.:salute:


:b55:

 

I noticed this thread pop up to the top and wanted to let everyone know that with enough extension the driver's side axle bolts are easily accessible thru the wheel well to use an impact gun. I'm not sure about the passenger side as I did not replace that one, yet.

For those wondering about doing this job, with no instruction I R&R'ed my axle in about an hour, that included taking the car the off the jackstands and putting my tools away.

If anyone near Harrisburg, PA needs a hand, let me know.

Later,
Tom

 

I noticed this thread pop up to the top and wanted to let everyone know that with enough extension the driver's side axle bolts are easily accessible thru the wheel well to use an impact gun. I'm not sure about the passenger side as I did not replace that one, yet.

For those wondering about doing this job, with no instruction I R&R'ed my axle in about an hour, that included taking the car the off the jackstands and putting my tools away.

If anyone near Harrisburg, PA needs a hand, let me know.

Later,
Tom

Same here. I was able to remove the bolts with an extension and impact wrench on both sides. Of course I live in texas and don't have to deal with winter roads (i.e salt).

 

Wow.

I used an impact. I ruined my ABS sensor trying to get it out. I put a 19mm wrench on it and twisted and it broke the internals. So I got a new sensor from the Junk yard for 10 bucks and put that in and works like a charm.

 

Wow.

I used an impact. I ruined my ABS sensor trying to get it out.

I think the impact was for the axle bolts! oke: :beer: :biglaugh:

You don't have to remove the sensor you can just simultaneously crush the sensor, break the abs ring on the axle, and have no idea what you just did. That's my shop's method.

Hoping to avoid that!! Will be back working on it today, cause today's my weekend.

PS How's the weather in Cross Lake?

 

You don't have to remove the sensor you can just simultaneously crush the sensor, break the abs ring on the axle, and have no idea what you just did. That's my shop's method.

 

Sensor clearance

Ok, So I forgot to get pix.

I can tell you the protrusion of the sensor from the inside diameter of the wheel bearing housing is 1.5-2mm. The clearance from the housing to the outer CV wheel is approx 4mm. This is on the side I did not attempt to pull the sensor. And again its a :b55:.

I did have some scrub marks on the sensor from the old axle's rotation.
I did not have an ABS light before so evidently the sensors are more robust than given credit for.
I also do not have a light after the test drive.:thumbup:
I turned the rack to opposite lock of the side I was working and there was plenty of room to support the spline end and get it out of the wheel bearing housing.

I would also say, You dont need an impact on the inner axle bolts. They are not in that tight and if you have the 12 pt internal socket head bolts, they will strip out with an impact. Air ratchet, yes. Impact, no. Take heart though if you strip one like I did, they come out with a vice grip on the Left side. Right side might need and EZ-out.

As for the total package, WOW!! Couldn't be happier, big improvement.
I wouldnt want it any stiffer for a daily driver, but the Koni FSD's do a great job of minimizing the shock.
The turn in and lane changes are tight like a tiger.

Next up, get the brakes to match the steering.

Big thanks to Koni, H&R, The Tire Rack and This Forum

Marc L.

 

I would also say, You dont need an impact on the inner axle bolts. They are not in that tight and if you have the 12 pt internal socket head bolts, they will strip out with an impact. Air ratchet, yes. Impact, no.

Well, I wouldn't say they WILL strip out with and impact. I removed all of the ones on my passenger side with an impact. Space is limited on the passenger side with the shield and all. Using the impact and extension, I didn't have to remove the shield. Worked like a charm. But your right, the bolts are usually not that tight to begin with. I did them all with a normal ratchet on the driver side.

 

Don't use an impact with a regular socket, u need a hardened one. The 12 pt socket is prob not very tough. The axle bolts don't seem to give much trouble anyways.

 

Alright, "will strip" is probably a little strong, but the main point is:
An Impact gun is not needed.
Generally more damage is unintentionally done with them than any tool other than the wrong size screwdriver.
In the interest of expedience I tried mine and but I did wreck 2 bolts due to not good grip with the junk in the socket.

Even after cleaning the sockets out, I did contribute to wear on several of the others just using a regular 3/8 breaker bar, being tired and not paying attention.
The 12 pt socket heads are just not that robust. I replaced the bolts due to the damage.
Quote from Bentley manual:
"Install inner joint of axle shaft and initially tighten bolts diagonally to 10 Nm."
Not a lot of torque there, the main resistance is just thread locker.

Good luck with your project,

Marc L