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V6 Timing Belt and 10 Year warranty?

16K views 37 replies 20 participants last post by  kawasakiguy37  
#1 ·
I know VW originally claimed that the timing belt should be done at 105k, but many here say that it fails far before then. I also have heard that VW revised their original estimate and set it now to recommended at 75k. Does the 10 year / 100,000 mile warranty cover this job at 75k? If my timing belt fails before the 10 year warranty will they cover the damage?
 
#4 ·
VW has not revised anything with respect to the TB maintenance interval. If you are still under the 10 year / 100k miles warranty, you need to have the TB inspected at the 40k and at 80K miles. If you've had those inspections and it breaks, you will be covered under the powertrain warranty. If it needs to be replaced prior to 105k miles, you will normally have to pay for the TB replacement.

You can check the maintenance shedule here: http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/servicecenter/maintenance/en/us/
 
#5 ·
Don't you find it curious that the replacement interval is 5,000 miles after your warranty runs out? I wouldn't chance it and I didn't. I had mine done by an indy at 80,000 miles. An ounce of prevention to avoid having to fight with VW to get the whole engine fixed if it breaks.
 
#6 ·
you will need to make sure to have other records to like oil changes I bet, they will be picky when it comes to shelling out 4-6k for a new motor or new heads. I would just do it and save the trouble, cause they don't have to give you a loaner and you could be out of your car for several weeks to a month depending on how fast they can get parts and what not.
 
#9 ·
If you are the original owner or immediate family member of the original owner, then you are covered under the 10/100 powertrain warranty. Otherwise, the warranty is cut in 1/2 to subsequent owner.

So, if you are covered under the powertrain warranty, take it to VW and pay them to do the 80k maintenance inspection and keep the receipt. That way you will be covered for engine damage if the timing belt breaks. However, you will probably be inconvenienced by being without a car for a few weeks.

The usual failure on the V6 is the water pump seizing causing the TB to slip/break which usually damages the engine. So, if you decide not to replace the TB and associated stuff until later, be very mindful of any noise / leaks from the waterpump that could be a sign of pending waterpump failure. The V6 tensioner is not likely to fail.
 
#8 ·
I noticed your's is a 99 V6 and I think many will concur that the tensioner/waterpump prior to 2001.5 had more issues. Do a search.

The least you could do is take the timing belt covers off of each bank by the fan and slowly and carefully inspect the belt noticing how worn the lettering is.. but more importantly looking carefully for splits or cracks along as much of the belt as possible.

As most posters have indicated there is no virtually no warning when the TB fails!
 
#10 ·
I am the son of the original owner who transferred ownership to me, so it sounds like I should be fine with the warranty. While I would not be happy to not have a car for a few weeks, I do not think I would mind VW replacing my engine (do they use a used one or new or what?).
 
#12 · (Edited)
VW won't just give you a new engine, trust me. If you take the car in now and have the timing belt inspected, they will most likely tell you that they recommend that it be replaced. If they tell you that, and you don't authorize and pay for the work, then they are done with you. They will not cover you if it fails. If the dealer says it's good to go until 105,000 miles, then you might then ask them if the warranty will cover it up to 100,000. They will probably then tell you now that they recommend it be replaced early. Anyway, make your parents get you a new timing belt, water pump, etc. I put a kid through college too, and I paid for a lot of crap I didn't want to, but I didn't leave them a ticking time bomb for a car.......Ok OK, it's not a ticking time bomb, maybe....but you get the picture. Such is the nature of the beast when dealing with rubber cam belted cars.
 
#11 ·
Great on the warranty. Just make sure you get the 80k TB inspection at the dealer.

The warranty states VW will repair the problem with new or remanufactured parts. So, they should not be able to buy a used engine from the junk yard and stick it in your car. The could buy a rebuilt engine (eg., one with the head rebuilt) or rebuild yours. I don't whether VW makes a new long block. But if they do, a new engine is also a possibility if the damage would be severe (like hole through the block, cylinder, pistons, valve damage etc.).
 
#14 ·
I dont plan on keeping the car much more than a year anyways, as by my junior year I plan on selling the Passat and upgrading to something else. I love the car to death, but I already know its going to cost me too much as it gets older.

How does the resale value compare to passats with / without timing belt done?
 
G
#15 ·
Don't be crazy. Spend the $800 on a repair to keep a good car going. I've got 194,000 on my V6, paid for 2 new belts now. 1st at 96k 2nd at 183k. Anybody who is looking to buy this should be asking this key question your trying to answer. I'd keep this through school and for as long as you can after your out. That is unless your getting a super cool new one for your graduation?

Read up on finical planning durring your early 20's, don't blow it while your young just because your young.
 
G
#19 ·
My point was that a new car has a mountain of costs that go with it, and right out of school isn't the best time to saddle up with one. 100,000 miles isn't alot on this car, by the time your changing your 1st belt, the engine is just broken in. Should have another 100,000 easy miles before you have "work" you need to do, that is assuming you do the service it needs to get you there.
 
#20 ·
I dunno about that. I bought my first car in 1968, and without a doubt the Passat has been the most expensive to maintain (and I only have 76k miles and 7 years on it). I've had Olds 98, muscle cars from the 60's/70's (GTO, Firebird, Barracuda), several inexpensive foreign cars, Acura Legend and Mark VIII on the higher end. The Passat was initially more expensive when I bought it, and has incurred more expense to date (even taking into account inflation for the expenses). Particularly annoying is the 3 starters I've put on there.

I would never recommend a Passat for a college kid, unless they did their own maintenance, or just loved to tinker, or were wealthy. My daughter (away at college) would really like to have the Passat, but even if I gave it to her free and clear she could never afford to maintain it (unless she starts dating a mechanic).

Dont get me wrong - we like the Passat. But it is a bit of a money pit.
 
#23 ·
On our '99 B5, I had wanted to do some preventive maitenance and do the belt at 80K. but when they told me it would be $900.00 to do the belt, I said, "I'll take my chances until the 10 yr warranty is up". That way, if it breaks, VW pays for it. But wouldn't you know it, at 99K miles, I ended up paying for the belt replacement.
 
#24 ·
Question... I need a new timing belt on my 99 v6, but my mechanic informed me that on these engines, when the timing belt goes that there may be a chance the whole engine is shot. Of course the only way to find out is to go ahead with the $900 repair. What are the chances that I get the timing belt replaced and end up having get a new engine anyway? Thanks.
 
#35 ·
Don't bet on it. They will try to get out of it even when your problem falls squarely in the guidelines.

They are just hard to get covered any way you look at it, kind of like the oil sludge problem.

"We are sorry sir, you were 9 miles over on an oil change. DENIED!"

At one time someone here complained of a broken T-belt at 55k and said that VW tried to deny it for not having the 40k inspection done, even though they had it done at a different dealership. Once that stealership found out it had been done, it too ended up denied due to a lack of oil changes, something about dirty oil increasing friction and placing more stress on the belt, etc. Once something works, idiotic as it is, they run with it.

It is really hard to get them to cover big things like that.

End the end, I would say that you should just be safe and do the belt, 60k is best, some go to 75k with no issues. If your manual says to get it inspected, do so, that way you have that covered if you really want to go to war with them.