did you try to drive with the new ECU first? i'd suggest clearing the codes, putting a hundred miles on it and checking to see if any codes come up first before you spend the time soldering the new chip on. Also, why not have a GIAC dealer solder it on for ya? it costs some, but i'd go that route unless you absolutely know what you're doing as you chould damage the ECU and/or the chip

 

did you try to drive with the new ECU first? i'd suggest clearing the codes, putting a hundred miles on it and checking to see if any codes come up first before you spend the time soldering the new chip on. Also, why not have a GIAC dealer solder it on for ya? it costs some, but i'd go that route unless you absolutely know what you're doing as you chould damage the ECU and/or the chip

Because paying someone else to do it doesn't go along with the B5 DIY mentality.

I was just wondering if anyone has a supplier, or part number for the necessary headers. I guess I'll just take my socketed chip to an electronics parts supplier and get help there.

-Mark

 

Another question? The ECU I bought is for an automatic car. If I desolder the chip and install my GIAC on it, do I still have to reprogram the ECU as a manual?

Thanks.

-Mark

yes.

 

Good Luck, Mark! Three cheers for the plucky spirit of DIY!

(you're crazier than I am...)

 

yes.

Thanks. I'll do the auto->manual reprogram and erase the DTC's before I solder the header pins and install the chip. Thanks for the info.

@Rusty - I don't think so.

Thanks.

 

Mark, when are you going to make it to a GTG?!?!

Tentative one in Albuquerque the weekend of October 15-16. Track day on the 16th. Be there or be square.

 

Didn't know about the ABQ GTG. TBH, I'm weary to track my car 500 miles from home. How do I get back if something happens? LOL.

Get the date set and I'll consider it!

-Mark

 

BTW, I opened up my old ECU and found that one of the pads under a header pin was wiggling on the surface of the PCB. I metered it and measured an open. Under a scope I could see that the pin/pad combo was wiggling so I'm assuming that the pad has lifted off the surface of the board creating an intermittant connection. I tried reflowing the solder and it didn't help. To fix the issue, I soldered a jumper wire from the pin/pad to the PCB trace's destination. I'm hoping this will fix my chipped ECU. I've been living with 7psi of boost for too long.

-Mark

 

Got my old chipped ECU working. I soldered a jumper wire from the bad pad to its destination and all is well. I'm enjoying higher boost again. However, I need to hook up my N75 again.

-Mark