first off, they are not lug nuts - they are lug bolts. what are you using to try to loosen them?

more info here is always better, btw. always try to give us the whole picture.

 

Im yanking real hard to get my nuts off

:rofl:

 

I was gonna say something...:rofl:

 

Im using a ratchet. my tire iron didnt fit it. should i just use a metal pole for leverage?

 

Oh goodness, he is using a ratchet on his nuts...

I suggest putting the correct equipment on your nuts or else you might break your tools!

 

I'd use a little lube :lol:

You do not have it jacked up at this point, right? Use a bar for more leverage and if you have to, stand on it.

Brian

 

So let me get this straight... once you're jacked, a little lube will get your nuts off?

 

Dont Stand on your bar... you could end up hurting yourself. Heat it up with a torch.... Then you may get your nuts off... LOL!!

 

good idea im going ot heat it up, i just didnt know if there was a special way of doing these and didnt want to wreck anything

 

better to use a breaker bar and a piece of pipe over the bar if necessary. heat is not required.

 

x2, we call it the johnson bar, just break the seal plus a little bit, lift the car and take the lug bolts out however you want, preferably an air gun

 

are we talking steel rims, factory alloys, or after market rims?

 

I am glad I am not the only one with a dirty mind here....

:lol:

 

I just put the lug wrench on each lug BOLT, with the handle aimed to the left, and I stomp on the wrench until the BOLT comes loose.

Most shops tighten the piss out of lug BOLTS for liability reasons; it's stupid, but very common. You can make it easier to remove the lug BOLTS by greasing the threads and the cone-shaped part that presses against the side of the wheel. Don't worry about them coming loose; the threads on your lug bolts have a 40:1 leverage ratio, so whatever you torque the bolts to, the pressure holding the wheel on will be 40x stronger.

 

Most shops tighten the piss out of lug BOLTS for liability reasons; it's stupid, but very common.

no, not for liability reasons - the average schmo they hire is too lazy to look up the torque spec, and moreover, they have no idea - so they set their air tools to max, and just do it that way.

You can make it easier to remove the lug BOLTS by greasing the threads and the cone-shaped part that presses against the side of the wheel. Don't worry about them coming loose; the threads on your lug bolts have a 40:1 leverage ratio, so whatever you torque the bolts to, the pressure holding the wheel on will be 40x stronger.

don't grease the threads - use anti-seize compound.

 

yep breaker bar works everytime, i got mine for around $15 at harbor freight.

 

Joewire88, buy some anti-seize and liberally apply to the wheel bolt threads and shoulders before installing.

 

i had this same problem right after i got my passat. i decided it was due for a tire rotation, so i took the bar to the lug bolt....
nothing...

well, called xyro over.... still nothing.

we got pissed, so both of us started jumping on the bar at the same time, in sync (yes, the oem tiny bar too) and after 20 or so munites of looking like a couple of **** retards the lug finally broke loose. haha.

then we had 5 more. on that wheel...

 

I have had to use a 6ft pry bar with the lug wrench to get them off.

 

I wouldn't just stomp on the bar either, that's a good way to tilt the socket down and twist it off the bolt.

I'd suggest using or borrowing an impact driver first. These will rattle the snot out of the stuck bolt and can usually loosen it with minimal damage. The key is getting one with enough........uhh.......nuts.

Also, use a 6 point socket. I repeat - USE A 6 POINT SOCKET. Yes I was yelling there. Even with a breaker bar. 12 point sockets are 99% responsible for me having to use the torch/welder/plasma cutter to get out broken fasteners.

Don't heat it yet, you may be wrecking your wheel and clearcoat for nothing.

 

I wouldn't just stomp on the bar either, that's a good way to tilt the socket down and twist it off the bolt.

It's possible, I suppose, but I've never had that happen. I think the people who build or select the tools that come with cars know there's no way in hell Joe Idiot is going to use that tiny lug wrench to get the lugs off without wailing on it a few times.

 

PB Blaster and a breaker bar FTW!

 

I ended up jumping on it and they all came off smooth from there. After i got one side done, it took my only 30 minutes to do the rotors and pads on the other side after i knew what i was doing.

 

I have a power torque wrench, it's real easy with one of these.

 

I have a 30" steel pipe I picked up at Home Depot or Lowes for a few bucks. I just slip it over the standard lug wrench, lift gently, and I have plenty of leverage to get the lugs off. The knuckledraggers at the tire joints torque them well over 100 lb ft, so when I return from those places I always loosen them about a little and retighten the way I want them.

 

I have a 30" steel pipe I picked up at Home Depot or Lowes for a few bucks. I just slip it over the standard lug wrench, lift gently, and I have plenty of leverage to get the lugs off. The knuckledraggers at the tire joints torque them well over 100 lb ft, so when I return from those places I always loosen them about a little and retighten the way I want them.

I do the same thing, but I never lift on the cheater pipe (too hard on my back); I set it up so I can push downward.

 

Did you ever get your lug bolts off?

 

I ended up jumping on it and they all came off smooth from there. After i got one side done, it took my only 30 minutes to do the rotors and pads on the other side after i knew what i was doing.

:thumbup:

Unless you want to ruin your torque wrench, never use it for anything other than the final torqing of bolts.

 

A few comments:
first: My torque wrench goes both ways (insert comment). Yes, I use it to loosen, with one big caveat. I set the torque to the bolt tightening value plus 10% and set the ratchet head to loosen. If the wrench 'clicks' indicating the torque needed to loosen is more than 10% above the tightening torque, I stop and find the breaker bar and extension I should have dragged out to start with.

second: I weigh 165 lb. I can't press down harder than that without inertia and momentum. I can lift more than that and I'm not a weight-lifting gym-rat by any stretch of the imagination. I can use a breaker and extension lifting or pressing but lifting is more effective for me.

third: I noticed during my snow tire change-over this weekend that the 5 holes through the rear rotors and the bolt thread holes in the rear hubs were not concentric. It appears that the brakes were applied and the rotor stopped while the wheel and bolts kept the hub rotating until the rotor was against the bolt threads. I had to fight every turn of the rear bolts.

 

2 words: anti sieze

:salute:

 

Lug Nut, I still don't see why you bother with the torque wrench when loosening. Does it really matter if it takes 90 lb-ft or 160 lb-ft to loosen the bolts? You still have to get them off.

If you put your weight on the bar and push down 1 ft away you just created 165 lb-ft or torque, add another foot (with a cheater bar/pipe) and you just doubled the amout of torque you can apply. But ultimately, do what works best for you.