You my friend are awesome. These are the best directions, and a snap to follow.

BTW, Who is the dumb a$$ idiot at VW that puts the clip on from the engine side? What a complete wate of my time, and the stupid thing is made of plastic so you can't use the magnet to hold the clip so that those of us that are not contortionists can get at it more easily when it falls behind the engine.

Ugg!!

 

Great job! The sensor is really that elusive. No wonder I couln't find mine. I'll have to try your technique.

Also, you have an AWM. I have an AWM. Why don't I have that "puck" valve hanging over the combi valve? Am I missing that? (Sorry for the semi-hijack ).

 

Also, you have an AWM. I have an AWM. Why don't I have that "puck" valve hanging over the combi valve? Am I missing that? (Sorry for the semi-hijack ).

I have an AUG engine, but I was thinking the same thing.

 

I have an AUG engine, but I was thinking the same thing.

Same here (AEB) mine is closer to turbo...

Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

Great job! The sensor is really that elusive. No wonder I couln't find mine. I'll have to try your technique.

Also, you have an AWM. I have an AWM. Why don't I have that "puck" valve hanging over the combi valve? Am I missing that? (Sorry for the semi-hijack ).

I believe that the 'puck' is part of the PCV valve system. It's some kind of check valve. The part number is 06A-129-101-D (for those of you who actually use the search feature) It's a 65 dollar part and the whole reason I found out about the failing sensor in the first place. It was toast, and causing my CEL to come on with horrible misfiring on all four clyinders. I bought the VAG-COM hooked it up and discovered that my coolant sensor was out so when I discovered that the check valve was cracked, I decided to replace both and clear up all the CEL codes.

I used the following part numbers on the sensor:

059-919-501-A sensor
N90-316-802 o-ring

I didn't get a part number for the clip. Would have ordered one had I known the part number. Ordered online and saved big $$ from www.1stvwparts.com.

On a side note installed the 'puck' and the misfiring and CEL codes went away. Whoo Hoo. Saved some $$$$$$ by not going to the dealer.


Later and enjoy,

 

Also, you have an AWM. I have an AWM. Why don't I have that "puck" valve hanging over the combi valve? Am I missing that? (Sorry for the semi-hijack ).

Running change... VW relocated the "puck" from right next to the N75 to the back of the head (as shown above), starting with the 2003 model.

PCV-2001-2002.pdf

PCV-2003-2005.pdf

VW = "Varies Widely"

 

Running change... VW relocated the "puck" from right next to the N75 to the back of the head (as shown above), starting with the 2003 model.

PCV-2001-2002.pdf

PCV-2003-2005.pdf

VW = "Varies Widely"

Also by relocating with the different orientation, it probably won't have the same tendency to fill with oily liquid as it does in the other location.

 

Running change... VW relocated the "puck" from right next to the N75 to the back of the head (as shown above), starting with the 2003 model.

PCV-2001-2002.pdf

PCV-2003-2005.pdf

VW = "Varies Widely"

cool. do you have the pcv 2003-2005 pdf for a v6?

 

vote for sticky :thumbup:

 

bumping this up, as it was hard to find. the new engines, awm code, have changed the location of the temp sender which is not as obvious as earlier engines.

was thinking that others would also be having coolant temp sender issues as well.

so if you have fluctuating temp gauge readings, this could be the culprit. gonna tackle this one tomorrow, along with my L shaped hose, if i can find a suitable clamper.

 

fluctuating temp gauge readings YES
heater isn't as hot as it used to be NO

 

does anone have the part number of the recepticle that the CTS sits in? These little fookers break easy and don't look fun to replace.

 

thanks!

Your writeup is extremely useful. I saw the instructions on taligentx.com and I was not able to find the sensor for the life of me because I have a different engine type.

I am getting P0118 OBD code which I am trying to remedy.

I am a newbie and I have never stick my hand behind the back of the engine. Is there any danger or safety issues I need to be aware of besides having the car cool off overnight before working on it?

 

I am a newbie and I have never stick my hand behind the back of the engine. Is there any danger or safety issues I need to be aware of besides having the car cool off overnight before working on it?

After having the engine on for a bit (ie coolant is hot), shut off engine and pop the hood. Open the coolant reservoir tank and unscrew (slowly) the cap. After you hear the steam escape, close the cap tight.

Now when you remove the temp sender, air will flow into the tube instead of coolant spilling out.

Good luck and wear some mechanic's gloves. Other than that, hope you have hands on the smaller side!!

BUMP FOR STICKY!!!

 

Be careful of any hard plastic or rubber vaccum lines because it is a tight fit back behind the engine.

 

bump for sticky in info forum, and plz put link in index

 

A good secret for finding where to place the clip.


The clip goes into a horizontal slit in the vertical tube. You need to push the clip in exactly the right place or it will not seat on the sensor and tube.

Take a small penlight and place it on top of the sensor when it is in the tube. Now light will flow out the slit where the retaining clip goes.

Dim the lights and aim the clip for the light. Block the light with the clip and you know you are in the slit where the clip needs to be pushed. Takes all the guess work out of the equation.

For the meat fisted (like me) put the clip onto one of those springy three jawed tool pickups you buy in the auto store. You can gently place it where the light is leaking out thru the slit. Then take your fingertip and blindly press it in place. Thus with no direct visualization you can place the clip.

Best of luck. -Ken

 

Too bad I didn't see this a day ago could have saved $ from having the dealer do it. I guess having a VAG-COM to diagnose it would have helped too. oh well my extended warranty covered most of it.

 

Hats off to you I couldn't get that sensor out.

bump for a sticky

 

very nice right up,


does anyone know which sensor i need for my aeb, as my temp gauge is a little wacky and sometimes work and sometimes dont.... sorry for the slight thread jack

 

does anyone know which sensor i need for my aeb, as my temp gauge is a little wacky and sometimes work and sometimes dont.... sorry for the slight thread jack

Just drill down your year, make,model, etc, and you have your part number

https://www.1stvwparts.com/partscat.html

 

After struggling to find the coolant sensor, and with some tips from others, here is what it took to do this today. This is a 2003 1.8T which has more plumbing than the earlier 1.8's, particularly the one shown in the taligentx write-up.

1. After removing the engine cover, find the heat shield on the left of the cylinder bank and remove it. It is held on by 4, 8mm bolts. You need to get this out of the way so you can reach back and around the engine block from the left.

2. Reach around the back of the block with your left hand. It helps to just lay right on the grill and engine so your elbow is down at the level of the exhaust manifold.

3. Use a good light source to peek through the plumbing. You'll find the sensor by reaching up just a bit from the most comfortable position your arm ends up in. The first photo shows how narrow the opening is to see the sensor, but with a good light, you'll see your hand back there.

4. Using a screwdriver inserted from above, pry the retainer clip out. In the first photo you can see where I inserted an 8" flathead screwdriver just behind the VCT valve and plumbing. You should see your screwdriver head through the opening circled. For some stupid reason, the clip was inserted from the front, engine side by the factory, but I was able to pry it toward the engine then grab it with a small needle nose using my left hand. Many others have recommended having an extra clip handy, which I did. But by prying slowly you can tell when it is about to pop out.

5. With the clip out, you can force the sensor and wiring up with your left hand. Don't even bother trying to remove the wiring connection at this point. Replace the sensor after you thread the wiring connector up through the VCT plumbing as shown in the 2nd pic. Make sure you remove the existing o-ring after the sensor comes out. I was able to roll it out with my thumb reaching up and into the opening.

6. Now you can thread the unit back to the location, then get your left arm back around and under to guide and push the sensor into the opening. The retaining clip is very easy to re-install from the firewall side.

7. Don't forget to put the head shield back on.

I tied a string to my clip, because I just knew. I should have done the plastic wrap on the reservoir trick too to not loose coolant.