[PASSAT2001.5]

Update:

Just spoke with Jack and our orders haven't been shipped, yet. However, it will be shipping most likely tomorrow. Jack had said that he wanted to talk to his boss to get the pricing down little bit for us. It maybe possible to give us a small discount. Jack will call each one of us when the orders are shipped.

That's the update.

 

[ywang98]

Thanks. :thumbup:

I wonder how he is going to call me? I don't remember giving him my telephone number, or may be I did :???:

Anyway, good news!

 

[HermanH]

I emailed Jack/Tom about the order and Jack replied indicating they should be shipped out Today, however, I forgot to ask about the cost - D-OH!

I'm not overly concerned. What's bumming me out right now is, I sliced my finger something fierce on Sunday (looked to be about 1/16" thick piece of skin, about 3/8"x3/8" swatch). Hurt like a M-F but it's under control; but can't really use it for at least a couple of weeks if not longer. But if all goes well, I'll be able to install it on the 29th.

 

[ywang98]

Herman,

OUCH!

I know how that feels, especially when you can't use your fingers! I am glad that you didn't do more damages than that!

I have a question for you. What kind of power bleeder do you have or recommend for bleeding brakes?

Thanks.

 

[HermanH]

heh, I'm using Speed Bleeders. one man operation and works perfectly. Just be sure you have a long bleed line to look for bubbles. I "tried" to make one but kept getting leaks around the cap; I'd go with the ones you see for about $40-45. Probably worth it.

Cobbling up parts costs around $25 though so it's up to you. Roughly, parts include a GM brake MC cap, a cheap pressurrized sprayer tank, a lenght of about 1/4" I.D. tubing (6ft.?) and a brass hose nipple that goes on the GM cap. Oh , and lots of silicone caulk. Good luck.

 

[ywang98]

I went crazy last night and bought myself a Vacula! It costs $140. It is compressed-air powered, Swiss made One-Man-Bleeder!

It is coming from Washington state via 3 day shipping. That costed me another $25!

I figure that I'll be bleeding like 3 to 4 cars this weekend next. Might as well do it so that I won't be losing my arms and hands by pumping the little vacuum bleeder that I bought for $25.

 

[HermanH]

Just charge the other guy's a few 6 packs and drown your $$$ sorrows! Hey, good luck on this and post some pics of the little shop GTG on the 'general' forums!
MAke sure you or them have LOTS of Brake=Kleen and anti=squeal compound.

 

[PASSAT2001.5]

wow.... we are one week away from doing the brake upgrage.

Herman, did you get shipping confirmation from ECS?...

 

[HermanH]

No. Maybe on Monday.

 

[HermanH]

Well, I think they shipped. Jack gave me a UPS tracking number but I believe it's for ywang98!!!! It's going to Irvine, CA.

need to get my tracking number.

 

[HermanH]

D-OH! Look's like ywang98's getting all of them! You'll be getting a call shortly on how to ship "my" set of rotors and pads to me. :lol:

Wish I had a reason to go to SoCal but I guess that's not in the cards. Let me know what happens.

 

[PASSAT2001.5]

Oh no, I hate be right. Ywang98 and I have been exhanging emails because of the weight on the package. It is shown as 104lbs, but it was definately too damn heave for 2 sets of rotors & pads. We did the do little caculation on the package and it seemed that all three sets are in a package to Ywang98.

I was going to call Jack and have him confirm this, but since he gave you Ywang98's package tracking#, it is most likely that your order is delivered to Socal with ours.

Maybe Jack can make a package pick-up and deliver arrange with UPS, so Ywang98 can forward your orders back to you.

Another option is for you to join our install GTG down here this weekend. We'll let you supervise since you're injured.

 

[ywang98]

This just gets better by the minute, doesn't it? :lol:

Well, Jack can let me know what he wants me to do, but our shipping cost will all be screwed up!

 

[HermanH]

Just when you thought it was safe to say "it's a done deal".... :roll:
Nah, I just picked up some new toys and want to start seeing then in action. Toy one was the shop press. Damn though, the thing just busted one of the flat plates I was using to help push out a bearing. I also got a sand blasting cabinet this afternoon (just took 30 min. off of work to get it, round trip). Sitting in the back seat; I may *cough* call in sick tomorrow!

 

[ywang98]

Sounds like you got your hands full of toys! :thumbup:

I got a call from Jack today, but I was too busy to return it. I'll call him tomorrow.

 

[ywang98]

Herman,

Jun and I just put our calipers and discs in today. Sorry, we were running late, so we didn't take any pictures. We are both very tired, and our muscles sore all over.

We are having some grinding problems. I don't know if it is because of new pads that is making it sounding pretty bad, or it is because the disc is too thick (thicker than Original Porsche discs) and the caliper is touching and grinding the disc?

I have not set in the pads yet by repeated braking, because I am just too damn tired right now. Jun is going back home (1 hour drive), and he'll give it a better test than me.

It took us from 8 AM to 8 PM to do both of our cars. Main reason is that we had to figure out how to do the first one. Nothing is self explanatory. In addtion to that, I had to change my rear lines too. So, the learning curve was quite high. We didn't even get to Jun's car until 4 PM (or may be later). Oh, one more thing, we also had to drill the brackets that held the solid line to the braided line because the braided line had a much bigger coupling than the factory one.

I still think that the discs are too thick, but we'll see.

 

[HermanH]

damn, I now wish I was down there to help you dudes. Sounds like this should of only taken a few hours per car. The ECS info did indicate these discs are 26mm instead of 25mm. This extra thickness does bottom out the piston and semi-metallic pads will make a grinding noise; nothing to be too concerned with; just drive it and take it easy for a tank OR bed them according to BIRA.

The rear braided lines, as you found out, probably a lot harder than it sounds. The plastic underbelly comes off, and then the heat shielding comes off, before you can begin to remove the OE lines (4 lines, right?)

The main thing is, everything is liquid tight. Hope to hear more about this later.

 

[PASSAT2001.5]

Hey guys,

Drive back home was kinda noise and smelly for first 20 miles on the freeway.
There was an accident on 55 so I did need to brake pretty hard, which did stopped in time. Also some stop and go traffic near LAX for about another 5 miles due to another accident, which I got to bed the brakes pretty good since the cars kept moving with speed of 30 to 5 mph. I was being an idiot, and I tried make hard stops to slow and go. When got home (85 miles later) grinding feel and the noise did die down when driving straight. However, it did squeel & grind when making a turn and thereafter for a short while.

I'm about to go find a empty lot to put little wear on the brake pads.

BTW, the ECS 2 piece rotor is very tightly spec'd for the boxster set up. There must've been about 1/2 mm of clearance on each side.

 

[ywang98]

Yes, the thickness definitely will mess up tolerance stack up (bracket to hub surface distance, and tolerance on the holes of the calipers). It is just too close. Jun is thinking to grind off a little bit of the brake pad studs to clear the discs if the grinding continues.

I only had to change 2 rear lines because I have a 4 Motion car. It took a while anyway because I had to take the whole caliper off in order to get the coupling off of the caliper. When we looked at Jun's car, FWD cars have a different rear caliper where the coupling of the brake line is attached to the caliper in a different location than the AWD cars. In the case of the AWD car, the there was interference to get the lines off directly without taking off the caliper. That took a while.

Oh, the expensive bleeding tool did come in handy. I believe that if we didn't have the tool, we would have had to spend another hour or two to do just the bleeing. The tool made it very simple and no mess.

 

[PASSAT2001.5]

it's getting better.....
Now, I can turn my wheel little without scraping and grinding noise. However, making a full turn does turn heads in the parking lot.

If it is indeed the brake pad studs, then it will be best to just dremel them a little before the install. I have not seen the scraping marks on the outside of the rotor ring, but the tighter gapped stud were the inside pairs. Dremeling the inside studs will help. It's only a guess at this point since I can't see the inside rotor surface.

Anyways, the porsche 996 calipers with S4 rotor set up that EVOMS.com sells does require cutting off the brake pad studs for using ECS 2 piece S4 rotor sets. ECS also makes 2mm thicker 2 piece rotors for S4 (30mm from 28mm stock), however, using the S4 OEM 28mm stock will not require any modification to the caliper. So, 2mm difference does introduce an offset that will probably cause the brake pad studs touching the surface of the rotor ring.

I won't have time until next weekend, but I will just dremel about 1mm off all 4 brake pad stud if the grinding continues.

It's always fun being a beta tester... :wink: