Of course i lifted up car lol

 

Did you remove the bolts? :lol:

Sometimes wheels get stuck on, especially after winter. I usually try hitting it a few times with a rubber mallet, and if that doesn't work finger tighten the lug bolts, drive the car back and then forwards a few feet. Attempt to loosen again, it should come off.

edit: I should stress that you only want to "drive" the car a few feet on hand tightened lug bolts, don't go on an errand run, road trip, etc. :wrench:

 

i would recommend before moving the car, do the tightening as newman suggested then lower the car and rock it side to side. this may also break it loose. if not its already down for a trip down the driveway. if neither of these work i have another trick i can say works 100% of the time.

 

What that 100 trick?

 

2x4, BFH (big f...ing hammer), and an angry thought in your head.

under the car, pur the length of 2x4 against a solid/strong area of the inside of the wheel. Then use your bfh and anger to hit it like it owes you money lol

don't laugh, it works...

 

thats the trick. or use the 2x4 to press against part of the frame and the back of the wheel and mechanical advantage pry bar it out.




or sell the car, no means no.

 

If the car is jacked up on the ground I usually sit on my ass in front of the wheel and give it a mighty shot with my foot on the edge of the tire .. Leave a screw in loose so it doesn't roll away .

 

Loosen all 5 lug nuts approximately 1 turn, back down driveway with turn into the street. pull back into the driveway and remove the tire.

 

+2 or whatever for a short drive that includes a decent start and stop with the lug bolts just loose.

You'll hear it lol.

 

OK I will try this tips today

I drove with loosen bolts on highway 30 miles, drifted like a racer, but no luck. Hitting my feet didn't help either

 

I drove with loosen bolts on highway 30 miles, drifted like a racer, but no luck. Hitting my feet didn't help either

That just doesn't make sense. Are they original VW wheels? Have you ever had them off before? All the cars I've owned over the years, including old English splined wire wheels where you were supposed to hit them with a hammer - I've never had one stuck on like that.

 

When I first got my Passat (used), one of the first things I had to do was get new tires on it. The shop couldn't get the back wheels to come off (stock steelies, nothing modified). With the car up on a lift and all the lug bolts out, two guys with two sledge hammers pounded on those things for over half an hour to get them to release. We used to have the same problem with old Fords back in my high school days. The hubcentric fitment is a tight clearance. If/when the metals corrode or have a galvanic reaction, that tight fitment seizes up like a weld. One mustang a high school buddy owned was so bad we backed off all the lugs and drove it around the block bashing into curbs repeatedly to break the wheels free. Even doing that, it took a while to break them loose.

 

Huh. I keep my wheels pretty clean, and rotate them frequently. Maybe I'll start applying a touch of anti-sieze on the center hub.

 

Maybe I'll start applying a touch of anti-sieze on the center hub.

I do that with this car.




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Take a big torch to the wheels to expand the metal. May have to lose the wheels afterward.

 

My son's winter steelies would not come after last winter, used a Bernzomatic hand torch and carefully heated the wheel and then sprayed PB Blaster where wheel meets hub.

Heating the wheel first before spraying the PB Blaster pulls the material in where the two surfaces meet.

Doing this about 3 times and hitting with a BFH on inside of tire we eventually worked the wheel off the hub.

Be careful not to overheat the wheel and damage the bearing.

 

OMG this is such a headache, I removed wheel lock bolt after struggling almost a month and thought now I could have removed wheels easily to change that exploded shocks and now this new headache popped out

 

Or... Move South. Away from the salted roads and snow. :thumbup:

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Spray the hub generously with PB blaster, let sit for a few minutes. Loosen all 5 lugs on the affected wheel then take it out to a deserted strip of road and accelerate then brake hard a few times. Worked for me with my son's winter steelies that had basically welded themselves to the hubs because of all the salt they use here in NJ.

 

One more slightly different method. Loosen the wheel bolts, go the other side (same axle) of the car and jack it up as far as your jack can lift, then lower the car back down and check.

I have also loosened the bolts like others have said and drove 10 ft and slammed on the brakes.

In the future: put anti-seize on the wheel where it mates to the hub.

 

With car jacked up and safety stands under car I use a big Prybar and put between wheel and balljoint controll arm even in worst case scenarios the brake rotor and pry and jerk or pop it loose remove lug bolts all but 2 have them on a few turns just to catch rim do this before you try to pry loose. Before install always use anti-seize on center hub and lug nuts or bolts this is a must do on any vehicle. I learned this after working on a car that had standard hubcap wheels with no hubcaps for years when I was a teenager. No need to hit with a hammer, if the car is on rack it's even easier. I have seen similar bars like I had at shops at Home Depot they are about 5 feet long every shop should have one no need for a hammer on a wheel!!! I have a 3 foot prybar in my toolbox at home. Hope this helps.??

 

I apply a film of high-temp wheel bearing grease on the back sides of the wheels where they touch the hubs.