[jonathan38]

I guess so. even tho I don't know how to check it.

But the thing is that the car is doing a weird noise, a strong cling cling like noise. I check with VAGCom and nothing related to oil pressure or oil pump. But I reckon this noise could be the oil pump.
Any advice very weclome.
Thanks guys.

 

[Tomvw]

We seem to be having trouble with translation.
The oil pickup tube/screen is inside the oil-pan and is bolted to the oil pump. It must be rigid, with no movement.
I don't believe that the "O" ring would be white.

You need to make sure that all of the parts you removed, have been re-installed correctly.
If the oil pump is clunking, it won't be long before you have a seized engine.

 

[jonathan38]

Ok... i understand now what this tube is. I see. I unmounted to tubes in the pan, and one is bolted on each side and connected to the pump. indeed there was a misunderstanding in translation. I will check tomorrow morning.
So there is a o ring joint on one side of this tube if I understand properly?

 

[jonathan38]

Ok so, i removed the lower pan this morning, the piping and the o-rings, which are black, are in great shape and well mounted.
But I did find these little plastic pieces in the oil. It does not sound very good... Any ideas where does that come from? Turbine of the oil pump? And what to do?

 

[VAGguy]

Take off the valve cover(s) and you might discover that one of the cam chain tensioner pads has broken into pieces.

That is the OEM color of the pads. Many aftermarket pads are a darker brown. You can try to source just the pads (available through Amazon and eBay in the US at least) or buy new tensioners if original to the car.

 

[jonathan38]

To make sure with translation. The valve covers what is it?

 

[VAGguy]

To make sure with translation. The valve covers what is it?

Cam covers? One on each bank.

 

[jonathan38]

Ok I understand, i even found a video on youtube explaining how to remove it on the V6. thanks mate. I will check it tomorrow morning.

 

[jonathan38]

If so, how to change this pad? I found a few topics talking about those pads but nothing about the procedure.

 

[VAGguy]

I would replace the entire cam chain tensioner unit. If it happened on a part that had relatively low mileage, I would replace the pad only. Even then, they just pop off. You need to remove the tensioner anyway to replace the bottom pad.

 

[jonathan38]

Ok thanks for advice! The car is 270000km. So will head to change the unit.
And to change the tensioner the access is ok from above under the cover?

 

[cchief22]

yes,under valve cover, however before you start taking things apart I would get the crankshaft locking pin and camshaft locking bar to insure timing is correct and every component stays in the correct orientation while work is being done.

 

[Tomvw]

To replace the CCT/s or pads, you don't need to disturb the exhaust cam/s or timing belt.
So no need for timing tools, but if you decide to replace the timing belt & associated parts, you will need them.

Make sure to get the intake cam timing right (16 roller count).

 

[jonathan38]

Ok thanks.
So i checked the pad on each side and they are both ok. Here is a picture of the right side of the v6. We can distinguish the pad under the chain.

I also checked the tensioner of the chain which is on the oil pump and it is good too. Is there any other pad I could check? What about the tensioner of the chains i see from under the cam cover?

 

[jonathan38]

Actually i looked closer and i found little pieces of the brown plastic here . But the pad is ok... i guess i need to remove the two cams to get access to the tensioner which is into pieces is that right?
Tom, not sure to what you mean.

 

[VAGguy]

Can you see the bottom pad on each one? There is a top and bottom pad on each tensioner.

 

[Tomvw]

Actually i looked closer and i found little pieces of the brown plastic here . But the pad is ok... i guess i need to remove the two cams to get access to the tensioner which is into pieces is that right?
Tom, not sure to what you mean.

What part of my previous post don't you understand ?

There are 2 pads on each CCT.
You don't need to touch the exhaust cams or timing belt, to replace the pads.
You will need to remove the intake cam/s and CCT/s to replace the pads.

 

[jonathan38]

When you said "make sure to get the intake cam timing right (16 count roller)". Do I have to move the intake cam timing before I remove it? And on each previous picture can you tell which cam is the intake?
I reckon there is a setting on the CCT when installed to give the tension to the chain. So if I release the tension is it enough to get the CCT off?

 

[jonathan38]

Ok so on the left side of the engine the intake is on the right i guess, with the injection nozzles, and the cam on the left is so the exhaust cam, which is related to the timing belt. It is why if i don't remove the exhaust cam there is no need to fix the engine with the pin and the bar...
thanks for explanation i just understood.

 

[Tomvw]

The intake cams are closest to the centre of the engine.
You can't release the CCT tension, you need to clamp the CCT with a special clamp, which is fairly cheap to buy.
You need to set the cam timing when you are installing the intake cam and CCT.

Setting the cam chain timing. (16 roller count)
For V6 bank 1, use the 1.8 diagram shown in the link below.
NOTE:
Haynes incorrectly states and shows "16 rollers between timing marks"
I have discovered that some of this wiki.ross-tech info is also incorrect.
The V6 Bank 1 timing is the same as the 1.8; NOT as shown in the V6 bank 1 diagram.
See the images at the bottom of this page: 16730/P0346 - Ross-Tech Wiki