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Shimmy at speeds

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shimmy speeds
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1.9K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Electron Man  
#1 ·
Heres a confusing one for you guys. I have a shimmy at around 50 and its more of a side to side osculation. Itll shake the glasses off your face. i have a new bearing on the right side and new axles on both sides and new upper control arms on the right as well as both tie rod ends being new. car had an alignment 2 days ago. stabilizer links look good but im not really sure what bad ones would look like. any ideas are appreciated. what ive been told from friends as possibilities are motor mounts, transmission bearings, something to do with where the axles connect to the transmission, or worn lower control arms.
 
#2 ·
New axles? How new? Cheap Chinese Axles are notorious for causing vibration. (If your axles were new instead of rebuilt, and cost well under $100 ea., they were Cheap Chinese Axles.)

P.S. I see you live in Easton. If that refers to Easton, PA, I hope you aren't a Leopards fan, or I won't speak to you any more... :D
 
#5 ·
How long has the car had shimmy at 50 mph? Have you tried moving (rotating) both front wheels/tires to the rear to see if the shimmy moved?

If this condition only occurs at ~50 +/- 2mph, your tires probably need roadforce balancing (but a good tire technician would be able to tell you your tires are too out of round to be properly roadforce balanced if this is the case).

If the magnitude of the shimmy doesn't change when you let off the accelerator pedal at 53mph (allowing car to coast back down through the "shimmy zone"), there's probably nothing wrong with your CV Axles.
 
#8 ·
A shaking during acceleration is often due to one or both of the inner CV joints being worn or broken. My Daughter had a Jetta that did that pretty intensely, and I found that one of the inner joints had a crack in the housing. You could try getting under the car and seeing if you can move either joint up and down. Almost any play that you can feel might be enough to cause that problem.
 
#7 ·
...as soon as you let off of the gas the shimmy is gone.
Ninety-nine percent chance the vibration is due to one of or both of your "new" NAPA axles (especially since you state that the vibration gets worse as acceleration increases-i.e. vibration is worse at a higher rate of acceleration). You can try moving swapping front to rear wheels/tires on one side, but I don't think it'll do you much good.
 
#11 ·
Check your tire balance again and rotate the tires.

Did you install the Tie rods and CA's? If so had you put the car under load before torquing down? If you hadn't done any of the work, verify with the shop if they had.

Is there any play in your CA's? If so bad ball joint.

I've always had issues with Napa products... their R&D/QA is shit. I had to replace a clutch plate twice... F'R shredded twice on me in a matter of a few miles, they paid for the replacement plus for my time.

"NAPA Premium" have several stamps on them, they could either be from Mexico, China, Taiwan, or some other country. Don't blame the Made In part.. it's fully NAPA's problem for not providing quality equipment to manufacture products and training. NAPA quality went downhill about 20 years ago.
 
#9 ·
So after driving the problem goes away after 50 and turns into a very faint buzz maybe that's due to a tire balance. It seems to get better when I make right turns I checked the axles and they have no play up and down or side to side. An almost unnoticeable amount of play left to right less than an 1/8 of an inch
 
#14 ·
Heres a confusing one for you guys. I have a shimmy at around 50 and its more of a side to side osculation. It'll shake the glasses off your face.
If the snub mount really fixed the above issue, you're right...very confusing. :hmmm: If you didn't also replace both left and right engine mounts, you should consider that as well. If they're nearly worn out, they'll give your new axles a shortened life due to the engine moving around too much (bad for inner CV joints).

Glad you got it sorted out though.