Well, finally managed to change the ATF and filter on the Tiptronic at near 60k miles. Also changed the F/D fluid in the front-end. If you have been like me, and wondering if it’s worth doing, the answer is most definitely YES!!
BEFORE YOU BEGIN:
Here are a few comments and supplemental notes that may be useful to others planning on doing this DIY service. I mainly used the instructions found in the Bentley and Haynes manuals, as well as Taligent’s website. Combined, those items covered just about everything and really made the service straightforward. I highly recommend studying those materials before you begin planning for the service, as they will help you build a detailed bill of material and tools needed. It will take approx. 1-2 hrs, depending on how much beer you decide to consume…
Thanks to all who helped me find instructions, part numbers, and on-line vendors. Very special thanks to Geri for the overseas assistance and Taligent for the great website. Also have to thank tdbear for the encouragement from his previous posts on this topic.
Here are the instructions that were used, in case anyone has trouble finding them:
http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/atfchange.html
http://62.116.119.245/geri/Upload/Getriebeoelwechsel/page_01.htm
DISCLAIMER:
VW recommends a service interval of somewhere around 100-105k miles for the 5-speed Tip (01V). Well, let me tell you it needs to be serviced WAY before then IMO. Don’t hesitate to tackle this project yourself, especially if you can’t find a reliable source for the service. However, be warned this service is more involved than an engine oil change. I take no responsibility for what may happen while following any or all of my suggestions (i.e. perform at your own risk).
ATF & FILTER CHANGE:
The condition of the ATF was very debatable, as the tip utilizes a different type of fluid than is common in most domestic autos. From a contamination standpoint it was horrible, the worst I’ve seen in my experiences with auto trannies. Dark black and full of fine debris. The pan was absolutely covered in thick sludge, and all six pan magnets were heavily coated with semi-metallic clutch plate debris. In fact, didn’t realize there were magnets until I started cleaning out the pan with a rubber spatula. BTW, be sure to only use the recommended ATF and follow the Bentley or Haynes instructions when refilling. It’s a bit of a PITA to get the fluid level checked at the end, as the tranny needs to be level and within a certain temp range (overflow type check/fill arrangement). Too cold, possibility of overfilling. Too hot, possibility of under filling. Gave me another reason to justify having purchased a VAG-Com setup, as you can easily monitor the ATF temp via Measuring Block 004.
Ended up using very close to 6L of fluid total. If you mess-up the final level check you may need more. I’d recommend purchasing 7L to be safe and have some extra on hand. You will need a T-27 Torx socket bit for the pan bolts (and there are enough of them). They were on pretty damn tight, and I managed to fracture one bit. So, you may want an extra on hand before you begin. Also, couldn’t find a torque spec for the pan bolts, so slowly worked up to what felt correct (keep in mind you’re threading into aluminum and you’re trying to seal a thin gasket). Ended up tightening them to 11-12 ft-lbs.
Another useful tip, which came directly from Sharky, was to use a wheel bolt and pair of hardened nuts as a 17mm HEX socket bit. If you have trouble finding a hex bit that large, the homemade tool will do the trick.
FINAL DRIVE FLUID CHANGE:
The F/D fluid was also very contaminated and in relatively poor condition IMO. I was able to suction out a little more than half of the fluid (~ 0.5 qt). Be sure to replace it with a fully synthetic 75W-90 gear lube. Mobil 1 offers a GL-5 that is available at just about any auto parts store for around $7-8/qt. BTW, the F/D drain/fill plug is exactly the same as the tranny drain plug (at least it was on a 2000 GLS). Neither appeared to be in need of replacement, as the plugs had integrated sealing washers that were in great condition. So, if you’re planning on changing both fluids, order (2) AT drain plugs. BTW, ETKA V6.03 doesn’t show the correct F/D plug part numbers (plug &/or seal) for the newer re-useable plug.
If anyone requires additional information, don’t hesitate to contact me. I’m more than willing to pass-on the vendor links used for parts and tools.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN:
Here are a few comments and supplemental notes that may be useful to others planning on doing this DIY service. I mainly used the instructions found in the Bentley and Haynes manuals, as well as Taligent’s website. Combined, those items covered just about everything and really made the service straightforward. I highly recommend studying those materials before you begin planning for the service, as they will help you build a detailed bill of material and tools needed. It will take approx. 1-2 hrs, depending on how much beer you decide to consume…
Thanks to all who helped me find instructions, part numbers, and on-line vendors. Very special thanks to Geri for the overseas assistance and Taligent for the great website. Also have to thank tdbear for the encouragement from his previous posts on this topic.
Here are the instructions that were used, in case anyone has trouble finding them:
http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/atfchange.html
http://62.116.119.245/geri/Upload/Getriebeoelwechsel/page_01.htm
DISCLAIMER:
VW recommends a service interval of somewhere around 100-105k miles for the 5-speed Tip (01V). Well, let me tell you it needs to be serviced WAY before then IMO. Don’t hesitate to tackle this project yourself, especially if you can’t find a reliable source for the service. However, be warned this service is more involved than an engine oil change. I take no responsibility for what may happen while following any or all of my suggestions (i.e. perform at your own risk).
ATF & FILTER CHANGE:
The condition of the ATF was very debatable, as the tip utilizes a different type of fluid than is common in most domestic autos. From a contamination standpoint it was horrible, the worst I’ve seen in my experiences with auto trannies. Dark black and full of fine debris. The pan was absolutely covered in thick sludge, and all six pan magnets were heavily coated with semi-metallic clutch plate debris. In fact, didn’t realize there were magnets until I started cleaning out the pan with a rubber spatula. BTW, be sure to only use the recommended ATF and follow the Bentley or Haynes instructions when refilling. It’s a bit of a PITA to get the fluid level checked at the end, as the tranny needs to be level and within a certain temp range (overflow type check/fill arrangement). Too cold, possibility of overfilling. Too hot, possibility of under filling. Gave me another reason to justify having purchased a VAG-Com setup, as you can easily monitor the ATF temp via Measuring Block 004.
Ended up using very close to 6L of fluid total. If you mess-up the final level check you may need more. I’d recommend purchasing 7L to be safe and have some extra on hand. You will need a T-27 Torx socket bit for the pan bolts (and there are enough of them). They were on pretty damn tight, and I managed to fracture one bit. So, you may want an extra on hand before you begin. Also, couldn’t find a torque spec for the pan bolts, so slowly worked up to what felt correct (keep in mind you’re threading into aluminum and you’re trying to seal a thin gasket). Ended up tightening them to 11-12 ft-lbs.
Another useful tip, which came directly from Sharky, was to use a wheel bolt and pair of hardened nuts as a 17mm HEX socket bit. If you have trouble finding a hex bit that large, the homemade tool will do the trick.
FINAL DRIVE FLUID CHANGE:
The F/D fluid was also very contaminated and in relatively poor condition IMO. I was able to suction out a little more than half of the fluid (~ 0.5 qt). Be sure to replace it with a fully synthetic 75W-90 gear lube. Mobil 1 offers a GL-5 that is available at just about any auto parts store for around $7-8/qt. BTW, the F/D drain/fill plug is exactly the same as the tranny drain plug (at least it was on a 2000 GLS). Neither appeared to be in need of replacement, as the plugs had integrated sealing washers that were in great condition. So, if you’re planning on changing both fluids, order (2) AT drain plugs. BTW, ETKA V6.03 doesn’t show the correct F/D plug part numbers (plug &/or seal) for the newer re-useable plug.
If anyone requires additional information, don’t hesitate to contact me. I’m more than willing to pass-on the vendor links used for parts and tools.
