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secondary air pump failed - best/cheap way to fix it?

52K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  Tomvw  
#1 ·
Hey,

Several weeks ago 'check engine' light turn on. :mad:

I've had the guy from the dealer check the car and I was told that they need to change secondary air pump. $350 for the pump + $150 labor. :shock:

In day-to-day driving I don't feel any decrease in performance. Any way to get rid of the 'check engine' light and still keep the 'bad secondary air pump'?

I'm looking to save some $$. :nervous:

Thanks for any suggestions. :(
 
#2 ·
may be the guy from the dealer wanted to earn some money...


Go to have some body with a VAG tool and check the code for it

if it said., secondary air pump fail., then I dont' think your car is drivable like how you drive it now., it should feel very weird and lost of power.


if the secondary air intake is too low that means you have a vacum leak ., which is a very popular problem to the V6 engines,( i myself had this problem) and I as remember, it is also a internal recall for the VW too..

easiest way to fix it is change all the vacum hoes (from what I remember A V6 has around 3 or 4 of them., I don't know about the 1.8., but it wouldn't be that many) the hoses are cheap and labor is around 30 mins job.... you can do it yourself too


but first thing first..., find someone with a VAG tool and check for the code..
 
#3 ·
Uh, are you guys on the same page? Think lukasz4k might be referring to the emissions system (Secondary Air Injection Pump). The system injects fresh air (with higher O2 content) into the cat during cold startups to reduce combustion emissions.

Car will drive normal with it failed, you just have to put up with the annoying DTC on the dash everyday.
 
#4 ·
I am not very sure what he is refering to,. but I had the secondary air pump failed with a secondary intake air too low at the same time before...

they both goes away with a vacum hose change..

well I just recommand him to find someone to check the code out for him to confirm if it is the emission side problem.,.., instead of paying that money to the stealership at this stage.
 
#5 ·
First, check to see for yourself if the pump is working....you should hear it on a cold start for approximately 2 minutes. It's located on the front of the car, passenger side right near the bumper. You can see it if you take off the belly cover under your car.

Should you get it fixed - yes. Although this pump is solely for emissions/"smog" control it's never a good idea, imo, to leave something broken on a car...could lead to more problems down the road.

Do you have the code(s)? This will help. Also, you probably won't feel any significant loss in power, if any, unless your vac. hoses are all shot to crap...which is possible. Clubb5 sponsor, Liberty VW can sell you the part for much less than you are being quoted. Also, a board member named Sharky is very knowledgable on this from various posts I've read...maybe he'll chime in.

For more information on the pump and it's function, here's what Bentley says:

The secondary air system blows air in behind the exhaust valve for 100 seconds during a cold start (+ 5C to + 33C coolant temperature). This produces an oxygen rich exhaust gas, causes afterburning and reduces the heating-up phase of the catalyst.

Activation occurs from the Motronic Engine Control Module -J220- via the Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump relay -J299- to the Secondary Air Injection (AIR) solenoid valve -N112-, change-over valve and combination valve.

Additionally, after each subsequent engine start (up to max. 96C engine temperature) the secondary air system will switch in for 10 seconds during idling and will be checked by the On Board Diagnostic (OBD). When this occurs, the Oxygen sensor control must be active.


Search the forums for "SAIP" or Air Pump or Secondary Air and you should find more information. It's a common failed part.

Good luck.
 
#6 ·
Thanks! I just learned .5 hour ago that my Wifes V6 manual variant is doing exactly what is described here. I also learned this week that the recall vac hoses were never replaced (we bought used and I called VWoA to update their database with our names in case of a recall and they told me). Now searching for VAG help... ANYONE?? I have BEER or VODKA or soda or water or food if you prefer... HELP!

TIA Josh
 
#8 ·
I had problem with secondary air pump too. I am not sure what's your mileage on your car, but my car was replaced underwarranty. It's belong to emission warranty, so check it with them again, good luck.
 
#9 ·
I am not very sure what he is refering to,. but I had the secondary air pump failed with a secondary intake air too low at the same time before...

they both goes away with a vacum hose change..

well I just recommand him to find someone to check the code out for him to confirm if it is the emission side problem.,.., instead of paying that money to the stealership at this stage.
Agreed. I would check it out first to make sure. However, if the pump sounds like a jet turbine already, it's most likely too late (it's full of water and is shot). Had the same problem and pulled it apart myself. Not exactly an easy job, but it can be done. Time consuming to some extent. Ended up having dealership do it for 1/2 price (called and bitched to VWoA). Replaced entire system. Works great now. Better last...

Heard there was a supposed recall on some components of the system (i.e. one or more of the valves/actuators which caused the failure)?

Sharky, you out there?
 
#12 ·
The code is going to be the same one if the vacuum hoses are bad or the pump is bad.

The ECM does not care which problem causes the lack of response at the oxygen sensors.

Do what that one guy said-see if you can hear it.

I'd pull the belly pan, and pull the hose off the pump that does NOT plumb into the center of one end. If the hose throws exhausty-smelling water on you, the pump is now dead, which was caused by a bad Kombi valve. If this is the case, you MUST replace both parts.

Or, go look at the vacuum hose.
 
#13 ·
Thanks all! (sorry about the hijack but this is a parrallel thread to my issue) I got the car Vagged and it was an emissions fault out of the rear. I had already tightended the gas cap.. apparently disconnecting the battery doesnt clear the codes out. So my guy cleared the codes and it is back to normal. Wouldn't it be better to have a 'gas cap' light instead of a CEl for that? I guess the stealers make beacoup bucks resetting comps for gas caps... :crazy: