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RESOLVED!!! 2014 crank no start 1.8L Turbo

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2.5K views 30 replies 2 participants last post by  marcop300  
#1 ·
we have owned this car for 5 years and have no issues, it oes burn some oil (no leaks, or white smoke). so we do check oil ALL the time and we and oil when needed. we also change oil every 5-6k miles. Last 2 years, have changed out fuel filter.

how it started. daughter was driving home about 2 miles from the house, the car stalled at a stop sign. she started it back up and drove home. the car then was parked in the driveway. when the tried to start it up maybe 40 mins after the car was off. It now does a crank no start.

what have i tested using ROSS-Tech VCDS ver 24.7..1

1st errors was below... this steps i have done...


(not in this order.... but i have done lots of steps)

1. I cleared all errors (now only have abs and tiptronic codes)
2. replaced cam and crank sensors
3. compression each cly 180+ lbs
4. remove gas hose from gas tank near the tubo... fuel does come out of hose
5. Measure bar after high fuel pump is 226 bar (also see output below)..
6. vag tool shows rpm aout 280-300RPM while trying to start
7. 12.3-12.7 volt on battery (i even have tried to jump with my GMC 2500 HD)
8. after checking all compression, i even pt 4 new plugs in the car
9. even took off and cleaned out the Variable Valve Timing Position Sensor Magnet module and made sure the little prong is working (and moving)
10 fuel is in the car IDE00588 Fuel tank fill level 32.5 %
11. RPM gauge in the cluster moves JUST A LITTLE when trying to start.
12 i have checked all fuses and nothing is blown also have not bought any relays (but have swapped the 2 green 644 relays under hood and inside car (drv side fuse box)
13. i power to each coil back when car is on
14. i have taken off ONLY one coil pack #4 and added old plug to it and it does spark when i try to turn over (maybe a slow spark... but i don't have a baseline on what is good or bad)
15. i have looked at each piston when a camera and there are no holes in the piston
16. i have NO changed the old to see if any metal is in the pan (but don't think i need to do that.. compression is good)
17. i have reset ECM but touching + and - cables (WHILE THEY ARE NOT ON THE BATTERY) for 5 mins
18. using VCDS i have reset and learn/adaptation the MAF



my next step it to order a fuel HIGH Pressure Fuel pump coming in a few days ( just seeing IF that can be the issue)

if that is not it, i need take cover off timing chain and see if TDC is set on all cams.etc( i just HOPE it's not the chain/tensioner) . (but DO NOT want do that work) Does anyone know of a Ross tech/VCDS option i can look at to see if i am GETTING good timing or what are good/bad numbers to look for?






9 Faults Found:
15084 - Cylinder 3 Knock Control
P2338 00 [00101000] - Limit Reached
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 12
Mileage: 151746 km
Date: 2121.14.23
Time: 22:48:58

Engine RPM: 1359.75 /min
Normed load value: 42.7 %
Vehicle speed: 77 km/h
Coolant temperature: 86 C
Intake air temperature: 30 C
Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.984 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 13
Engine: operating status: PL
STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL
T_AST_SAE: 918 s
MAP_MES_SAE: 95 kPa
Lambda probe voltage: bank 1: probe 1 (broadband probe): 1.997 V
FAC_TPS_1_SAE: 26.953125 %
FUP_H_SAE: 19810.0 kPa

15083 - Cylinder 2 Knock Control
P2337 00 [00100000] - Limit Reached
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 8
Mileage: 151746 km
Date: 2121.14.23
Time: 22:48:58

Engine RPM: 1418.00 /min
Normed load value: 41.2 %
Vehicle speed: 80 km/h
Coolant temperature: 86 C
Intake air temperature: 39 C
Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.906 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 17
Engine: operating status: PL
STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL
T_AST_SAE: 663 s
MAP_MES_SAE: 90 kPa
Lambda probe voltage: bank 1: probe 1 (broadband probe): 1.963 V
FAC_TPS_1_SAE: 22.656250 %
FUP_H_SAE: 20000.0 kPa

15357 - Combustion Engine
P032F 00 [00101000] - Insufficient Torque
[Combustion Engine Producing Insufficent Torque]
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 15
Mileage: 151748 km
Date: 2121.14.23
Time: 22:50:09

Engine RPM: 1842.50 /min
Normed load value: 54.5 %
Vehicle speed: 28 km/h
Coolant temperature: 86 C
Intake air temperature: 35 C
Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.945 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 17
Engine: operating status: PL
STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL
T_AST_SAE: 993 s
MAP_MES_SAE: 86 kPa
Lambda probe voltage: bank 1: probe 1 (broadband probe): 1.968 V
FAC_TPS_1_SAE: 23.437500 %
FUP_H_SAE: 19780.0 kPa

15188 - Engine Oil Pressure
P055F 00 [00100000] - Out of Range
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 154458 km
Date: 2122.14.16
Time: 11:21:49

Engine RPM: 2563.00 /min
Normed load value: 31.4 %
Vehicle speed: 143 km/h
Coolant temperature: 86 C
Intake air temperature: 15 C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.042 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 28
Engine: operating status: PL
STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL
T_AST_SAE: 908 s
MAP_MES_SAE: 60 kPa
Lambda probe voltage: bank 1: probe 1 (broadband probe): 1.943 V
FAC_TPS_1_SAE: 49.609375 %
FUP_H_SAE: 16970.0 kPa

15058 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
P0087 00 [11101101] - Too Low
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 8
Mileage: 154604 km
Date: 2122.14.21
Time: 02:53:00

Engine RPM: 988.00 /min
Normed load value: 20.4 %
Vehicle speed: 14 km/h
Coolant temperature: 25 C
Intake air temperature: 20 C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.082 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
T_AST_SAE: 19 s
FAC_LAM_LIM[1]: -17.603 %
Fuel regulating valve: duty cycle: 94.548 %
FUP_H_SAE: 5510.0 kPa
High-pressure system: status: MFP_CTL
TFU_HPP: 18.75 C
Lambda probes actual: bank1: 0.9980

15197 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2014 00 [10101100] - Electrical Malfunction
MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 166
Mileage: 151725 km
Date: 2121.14.23
Time: 21:24:26

Engine RPM: 1641.25 /min
Normed load value: 31.0 %
Vehicle speed: 16 km/h
Coolant temperature: 88 C
Intake air temperature: 45 C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.828 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine: operating status: PL
STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL
T_AST_SAE: 1440 s
MAP_MES_SAE: 85 kPa
Lambda probe voltage: bank 1: probe 1 (broadband probe): 2.046 V
FAC_TPS_1_SAE: 22.265625 %
FUP_H_SAE: 16450.0 kPa

15099 - MAP/MAF <-> Throttle Position Correlation
P0068 00 [00100100] - -
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 154625 km
Date: 2122.14.23
Time: 00:51:25

Engine RPM: 1174.50 /min
Normed load value: 19.6 %
Vehicle speed: 67 km/h
Coolant temperature: 86 C
Intake air temperature: 65 C
Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.750 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine: operating status: PL
STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL
T_AST_SAE: 113 s
MAP_MES_SAE: 51 kPa
Lambda probe voltage: bank 1: probe 1 (broadband probe): 1.182 V
FAC_TPS_1_SAE: 12.890625 %
FUP_H_SAE: 4870.0 kPa

15092 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71)
P1158 00 [01100101] - Implausible Signal
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 154625 km
Date: 2122.14.23
Time: 00:51:25

Engine RPM: 1173.75 /min
Normed load value: 19.2 %
Vehicle speed: 67 km/h
Coolant temperature: 86 C
Intake air temperature: 65 C
Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.710 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine: operating status: PL
STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL
T_AST_SAE: 113 s
MAP_MES_SAE: 51 kPa
Lambda probe voltage: bank 1: probe 1 (broadband probe): 1.172 V
FAC_TPS_1_SAE: 12.890625 %
FUP_H_SAE: 4910.0 kPa

16807 - Implausible Data Received from Transmission Control Module
U0402 00 [00100100] - -
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 154625 km
Date: 2122.14.23
Time: 00:51:27

Engine RPM: 1174.75 /min
Normed load value: 20.4 %
Vehicle speed: 67 km/h
Coolant temperature: 86 C
Intake air temperature: 66 C
Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.671 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine: operating status: PL
ECU_STATE: SYN_ENG_IGK_ON
Engine oil temperature: 90.0 C
Time since engine start: 117.2 s
T_ES: 0 min
Cruise control switch actuation-Main switch: Not operated
Cruise control switch actuation-Set: Not operated
Cruise control switch actuation-Resume: Not operated
Cruise control switch actuation-Status: OK
Cruise control switch actuation-Accelerate: Not operated
Cruise control switch actuation-DELAY: Not operated
Cruise control switch actuation-Cancel: Not operated
Cruise control switch actuation-Main switch hardware: operated
Cruise control switch actuation-Coding: plausible
Cruise control switch actuation-Limit function: not selected
Cruise control switch actuation-Limit button: Not operated
Cruise control switch actuation-Main switch CAN: operated
Cruise control switch actuation-Large increment: Not operated
Cruise control switch actuation-Control component verified: Yes
STATE_ERR_ABC_PRED: 7

Readiness: 0000 0000




more data__________________________________

IDE00186 Fuel low pressure: actual value 11.003 bar
IDE00188 Fuel high-pressure: actual value 226.6 bar
IDE00201 High fuel pressure: specified value 123.4 bar
IDE00202 Low fuel pressure: specified value 5.000 bar
IDE00357 Fuel temperature 6.0 C
IDE00588 Fuel tank fill level 32.5 %
 
#2 ·
In your first paragraph you say you have changed the fuel filter in last two years...but the fuel "filter" is part of the in-tank fuel pump. Replacement pumps are notorious losers. Nevermind VCDS for now, because the engine is not running, can you hear the pump turn on when you turn the key? Can you put a pressure gauge on the fuel pump outlet where it comes out of the tank and then crank the starter? If you disconnect the low pressure fuel line from the high pressure pump in the engine bay and turn the key, does a bunch of fuel come out at about 60 PSI, as it should?
 
#4 ·
In VCDS you can look at group 93 and see the timing degree variation between crank and cam, but only when the motor is running. Maybe do the VCDS output test on the fuel injectors and listen for the clicks? That won't tell us if HP fuel is present, but it will eliminate the likelihood of electrical problem with injectors. The HP fuel pump is not hard to remove and inspect. I once had one physically break at one of the two flanges holding it onto the head, which mean it was crooked and not getting the full lift from the camshaft.
 
#5 ·
i will do the injector test. i also will measure the high side of of the fuel rail and see what pressure is when i disconnect the HP pump, i will see what the # is then. then i will measure it again with the HP pump turn on. i will also check the status of the new pump i have on order.
 
#9 ·
Forgot to mention the injector test only works once between the engine running, and only a few clicks I think. Otherwise you'd flood the cylinders with fuel. Also, I don't know that the HP pump pressure reading is going to be accurate unless the engine is running, as the HP pump only runs when the engine is running.
 
#13 ·
Oof, that's nasty. Chain was loose and must have been slapping around something fierce to bust up those guides. But you had good compression? I guess you can jump a chain forward and then backward, go figure. I'd like to see photos of the installed guides missing the parts, not just the loose guide sections, if you can. If you actually have good compression the valves are good. It's just so far off the spark and ignition are not firing at the right time maybe so that's your no-start condition, maybe.
 
#14 ·
new google drive view of failed part and what i have taken apart now. i want to see how i can get the intake cam to TDC and so i will line up with exhaust cam, then i can do a leak down test. is it ok for me to turn the motor (with out the value cover on it? (all the spark plugs are out of it (but still in the hole ( don't want anything to fall in there)


2014_1.8l-TURBO_VW_Beetle - Google Drive you can look at CAMS_VEW DIR. here are LOTS of pics. its my notes on what i have done. yes, i do have 180+ psi in each cyl. you can see in some of the pics.. i have LOTS of them.
 
#19 ·
update.... i am now going to take off eng mount, timing cover. and pull out both cams. then do a leak down test at 100 PSI. . if test is good.

Then I set TDC of the crank to flat line on top and piston on cly 1 to up stroke.
Then i will check the cams, make sure no damage on them.
then HOPE i can put then back on the head, line up to TDC. Lock in the cams.
Buy new timing chain kit/cover screws for valve covers
lock in the cams
install new timing chain kit and MAKE SURE timing i right
and all the other fun stuff with putting the motor back together and NOT getting gasket sealant everywhere.

this project has been good and bad... GOOD that i am learning a TON and buying some awesome tools that i bet i never use again but learning A LOT on this 1.8L. Bad part is i can't work on it every day. But IT will be running before end of Feb 2025
 
#21 ·
am_parts_Leak_Down - Google Drive new link and better pics.yes, it was timing.you can see lots of pic of cam was off and LOTS of pic of parts that was in the timing chain over. But good news. my valves are NOT BENT and my compression test i did a week ago was 180+psi or more on each cly and you can see the leak down test is "passing".

today in Dallas TX we are getting 4-10 inches or snow, so i will be in the "man cave" taking the oil pan off and see what CHUNK i see in there. Also doing a de-carb clean in the intake valves.


now i just want to a GOOD site, with GOOD parts so i can order timing chain KIT, screws, oil, filter, timing cover..etc as one BIG kit. and NO WAY i am getting OEM. ha ha
 
#24 ·
WOW, that you said that. i didnt want to try the 200 part. but man, i wanted to BAD. i even saw a kit for $67 on Amazon. I just hope they give me all the right parts. and 1st they did not think i had 3 chains he said, do you have 2. i told him, i am not an expert. But tool out 3 chains. then he looked it up and said yep after feb 2014 they went to 3 chains and not 2. i just hope all the guides are the right ones in the 1000 KIT!
 
#27 · (Edited)
ok try i made new file share site. its running on my home server. you can see ALL my photos of the VWBUG,motor.etc. i had an issue where people overseas can't see my google HD share.


Share 18LTURBOCPKA - Pingvin Share

so this should take you to view all files and you can look or even download them (yeah, not all of them are labeled). This Link will Expire in ONE DAY. i Just need to test it out. Please let me know if it worked. Thanks. then i will update the link for everyone to see if for one year or more.
 
#28 ·
i will make a new site with all my pics. also last 2 days the car is all back together. i have sealed the valve cover, oil pan and the timing chain cover. they all dried overnight (in 52 Deg F temp in my garage) i have added coolant, 5.8 qt oil and now checking for leaks.

now just need to replace my # 4 coil pack connector. looks like i got the WRONG one and now going to order another connector. I broke it taking it off al while back. so maybe in 2 days i will start the car.

i did turn it over with no spark plugs or coil pack and it did "crank" so no BAD things happen...