Ok I have only been chipped for a few days...but I love it! Low end was improved greatly and it pulls awesome. So far I have driven 300 miles city/freeway mix and hovering around 25 really hitting the gas. I had mine programmed through the OBDII port took 20 minutes.

 

I've had my 93 octane DPP for about 12,000 miles. I can easily see 31 MPG on highway trips. Usually 26 with mixed city/highway. And the power is awesome. Only downside was price but for me it was worth it for the ease of program switching. Look into the Wett chip also though. Its about 300 and everybody on here likes the performance. Supposedly APR has a tad more power but its a small difference.

 

I have been running an APR chipped ECU for ~40K. I have never experienced an APR chip related fault/reliability issue. I purchased my APR chipped ECU through our classifieds section. I do not know how many miles SilverBullet logged on the ECU before selling it to me.

Currently, my MPG is 26.5 (mixed hwy and town). I need to change my plugs and clean the TB.

APR is more expensive, but the power band is OEM-like smooth. The car pulls like a racehorse from 2800 to 5800 rpm.

You are only the second post I have ever read stating that their ECU has gone bad; do you know the cause?

 

Unfortunately I don't why my ECU went bad. You cannot read codes from it unless the car is running, which prevents you from clearing them. Plus it causes the fuel pump relay to click non-stop when the key is in the on position without the engine started (I was told by my shop that the there is pin coming from the ECU that tells the fuel pump relay when the engine is running and after checking the pin the found the ECU is telling the relay that the engine is starting and stopping every 2 seconds). It also makes the car hard to start sometimes. I have taken it to two shops and they have both told me the same thing (in fact the last shop I took it to said that someone had obviously been messing with it as the rubber boots were pulled back from the box. So the problem was probably there when I bought the car 3 months ago). I love my B5 but it has sucked money like crazy since I bought it. I had to have timing belt done and my Ignition Control Unit went bad. Then this stupid ECU and I found that my coolant hoses are leaking too. Even through all of this I still love the car. Thanks for the input by the way.

 

If you have a 2001 1.8 with a manual transmission, I have a chip and ecu for sale cheap. PM me if interested. BTW, they worked fine. I only replaced them because I got a bigger turbo.

 

Thanks but I have '99 1.8 Tiptronic.

 

I understand your frustration; I have had a love/hate relationship with my B5 as well. I have gone through failed MAF, ICM, and 3 window regulators, … be patient, the B5 is a very enjoyable car to drive (which you already appeared to have learned).

If you do not know the maintenance history, you may want to run it through an Auto-Rx treatment, just to head off sludging problems. Either way, it is cheap insurance for a 1.8T.

There are many people around here that will help you diagnose problems yourself, if you have the time and patience (it will save you many $$$$). Be sure to use the site’s search feature. Most questions have been asked before and answered by some very talented/knowledgeable people.

I purchased my APR chipped ECU used from a member off this site. You want to correct the ECU box’s harness protectors before you install the new ECU. The box is watertight for a reason; that is why the wiring harnesses have the sealed rubber boots. This condition may have attributed to your ECU’s demise.

If the chip is an APR, you can have the chip changed to an automatic. APR charged me $50.00 to perform the change and transfer the lifetime warranty into my name. I sent SilverBullet the money; he shipped it directly to APR. APR changed the chip’s transmission setting and mailed it back to me.

You just have to make sure that the ECU serial model will work with your B5. If you have the proposed ECU serial number and call APR, they will tell you if it will work with your model/year car. They did this for me, even though they were not making the direct sale, only the pass through.

 

I have the APR chip on my 03 Tip, and love it. I would get it again.

 

Mine has been APR chipped since new. No problems ever from the chip, and I am weeks away from 5 years old :thumbup:

 

I have had a APR chip for 4 and one half years and have never had any issues. It is great to be able to switch to stock when you have the car serviced.

 

How much do the APR chips run and whats a good place to get them?

 

I have had mine since my car had about 20K miles. I now have 65K and have had zero problems with the APR chip. I have 4 programs on it and love the ability to switch them when I want/need to. I also have the error code erase and throttle body alignment feature - very nice.

I opted to get a spare ECU and have that chipped instead of chipping my stock ECU. In some ways I regret paying the extra for that since I have had no problems. Maybe it's time to sell it?

 

Check here for ECU chip prices: http://www.goapr.com/VW/products/ecu_upgrade_passat18t.html

BCBlack99b5: This looks like the closest authorized APR dealer to you: http://www.ingolstadtwest.com/

 

WETTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT :thumbup:

 

Just be aware that you must use premium fuel everytime now. The increase in power and economy comes at the cost of ensuring the engine is given the highest octane you can typically find. I have never heard of any long term tests on running a chipped car with 87 but it cannot be good. It kind of takes away the "world" car. Meaning the stock Passat can run on anything from maybe 86 octane to 100+ but after chipping it you are telling the car that you will never put 87 or 89 in her again. I bought my 91 octane APR chip out of the classifieds here with the ECU for a good price. I put in 93 octane but my model year (99) only has 1 APR chips (91octane) for it. Just keep your eye out.

 

I thought we had to run 91 or higher even stock. Even the N/A v6 requires 91 or higher, correct? Granted, it may become even more of an issue with the chip, but even stock I always used 93 (what we have in TX) in my 1.8t.

 

On a stock 1.8T car, 91 octane is recommended, but not required. 87 minimum. That's what the manual and inside of the gas flap say.

You'll get more performance out of higher octane because they have been tuned to use it, but lower octane will not hurt the car.

If you are going to spend the money on the chip, pay more for the higher octane gas. Some chips use 91, others 93, and of course some have the 100 race option. Some people report better gas mileage with higher octane and/or with a chip.

 

I've had my 91 Octane APR chip for about 6 months.
I love it and wouldn't go back. APR's service is top-notch.

 

I was going to go APR but I couldn't go w/o a car for a week.

 

I was going to go APR but I couldn't go w/o a car for a week.

If you use overnight, you should only be out of a car for three days.

Watch the classified section. Periodically, someone will sell an APR chipped ECU. Or, you can pick up a second ECU and have it chipped. Just some options...

 

On a stock 1.8T car, 91 octane is recommended, but not required. 87 minimum. That's what the manual and inside of the gas flap say.

You'll get more performance out of higher octane because they have been tuned to use it, but lower octane will not hurt the car.

If you are going to spend the money on the chip, pay more for the higher octane gas. Some chips use 91, others 93, and of course some have the 100 race option. Some people report better gas mileage with higher octane and/or with a chip.

According to my gas door 91 is the minimum. Mines an 03. Maybe they changed the minimum required fuel, but I don't think I would ever run anything but premium in a forced induction motor.

EDIT: I just read thru the manual and it does say that 87 is O.K. Gas door still says 91 but indeed the book says 87 will work. I still wouldn't use it even if I was stock, but I guess you can.

 

Wait a second . . . I looked at what the chip does for the car on the APR website above. 200hp and 243lb-ft torque on a 1.8T which normally gets 150hp and 155lb-ft torque!?!?! Can this be for real?!?!

For all you APR chipped guys out there . . . did you get your car dynoed before and after to see the real and actual difference the chip makes? 200hp . . . wow!

*I'm getting excited *

Bryan

 

And where do I find the WETT chips and their specs? $500 is quite a bit of money

Regards,
Bryan

 

yes.

the numbers are real.

however, keep in mind that those numbers are CRANK hp, not at the wheels.

having said that, to figure what you could see at the wheels, figure something like 18-20% drivetrain loss, and you should have your whp.

Wett, Neuspeed, and a couple others don't put out (or claim) as much hp.

The only mainstream competitor for APR in terms of output is GIAC... (maybe revo, but i haven't read much about them).

 

Wait a second . . . I looked at what the chip does for the car on the APR website above. 200hp and 243lb-ft torque on a 1.8T which normally gets 150hp and 155lb-ft torque!?!?! Can this be for real?!?!

For all you APR chipped guys out there . . . did you get your car dynoed before and after to see the real and actual difference the chip makes? 200hp . . . wow!

*I'm getting excited *

Bryan

I dynoed 210lb-ft of torque to the wheels with my APR'd K03 tiptronic 1.8T :thumbup: