Rears: Yes, I use that spot all the time.

Fronts: I wouldn't--that's just a thin metal plate and you risk sliding the subframe angles around. Go for the pinch welds or the flat spot on the floor pan specifically made for that (might be in the manual). Pinch welds are always the safe bet, but it's best to fashion some pads made of plywood to help even out the load. If not, the pinch welds will bend a bit before settling. This is normal, but not very pretty.

Just be sure to always give the car a nice hard shove from 4 different angles before getting under it. Also, place your jack and your removed wheels under the frame rails as a backup.

 

I put my fronts in the same place as the OP because I jack up from the pinch weld spot and there's no more room to get a stand in the same area. What should I do? I suspect the OP does the same.

 

Then go with the horizontal section of floor pan inboard from the pinch weld. Make sure that you use plywood (etc) to create a flat surface, because I'd imagine the jack stand would cause a serious impression. That's what I used to do before I installed the TT jack pads--which are still my primary jack point, even though there is advice against it.

 

wasn't there a diy a while back on installing "jackpads" to the underside?

 

yes, but you have to buy them, and then install them.

(I've performed the first part of that... :hmmm: )

 

Jackpads are a great buy for like $45 and you KNOW you're using the right location.

 

with those pads, are the same placement points (holes) on the b5.5?

and why didn't they include that stock?!
sense, makes not.

 

I've actually used these points, including the front points, a few times before, and I have never noticed any deformation at those points. I saw these points used in some old post here years ago, I don't remember where.I have TT jack pads which is where I lift with the jack.

What are pinch welds? Or where?

 

Jackpads are a great buy for like $45 and you KNOW you're using the right location.

Wow, you really must love your car if you think $45 for some urethane chunks for the underbody is a great deal.

Because I felt the need to have shop receipts for all maintenance in the event of a warranty battle with VW, my car has been on a ton of different lifts. Sadly, the last time I was under it proved that at least one of these shops was not very fussy about where it positioned lift pads. The worst part is that my car has been serviced at Firestone (my gf is a regional manager) and two VW dealerships. Given my dismal experience with both dealerships, I'd bet the bad lifts happened at one of them.

If there is a point to all of this, IMHO the positioning of the jack stands is fine. A suitably beefy and flat spot on a subframe is all you need. Secondly, sooner or later somebody will lift the car badly unless you do everything yourself.

 

Rear:

What is that bar across the bottom of your car?

 

looks like a home made variant of the chas bar.

 

No, it is the original ChasBar, or at least made by the original chas.

 

The only problem I have with the front jack placement is that it is not a flat enough surface. It would be too easy to have the car slide while jacking the other side. I use the front part of the bracket where it attaches to the subframe bolt. I place the hook end right between the bolt and bracket.

I also use the inside of the pinch weld with the stand placed front to back.

 

Yes, I have definitely seen the sliding you describe. I keep a careful eye on the stands I have placed while jacking, and also jack incrementally, lifting a little at a time and then going back after all 4 are placed and then lifting again.

PZ, when you say front part of the bracket, do you mean the front part of the bracket that I am using?

 

Yes, the same bracket but on the front section where the large bolt goes through it.

Most of the time I use the cup to jack the car up and place the stands on the inside of the frame rails. It just depends on how low the car it as the jack will not go under the cup on some of the lower cars.

 

i believe he means that he uses his jackstands turned 90° from how yours are.
same spot, from what i've seen.

 

I use the point that you are using to jack the car up, then put the jackstands sideways across the standard jacking points. My cheap jackstand has a little dip/slot in the middle to fit the welded seam. This seems to work very well.

One of points you have them are bad for the following reasons; The jack does not cup the spot up front so the jack top won't "squirt" out to the side. Very little movement would cause it to pop out and the car to fall. The passenger side doesn't look centered in the picture. The rears seem OK but I am not sure if those pivot or not.

 

the rears will not pivot. i often use that point for jacking, and the seam for the stands.

for the front, i have the same kind of jacks you do as well as the ones in the picture above.

the ones up above in the picture i agree are unsafe for that spot.

 

Well, doing the brakes you are not going to be under the car all that much. Maybe a head between the wheel well.

THose look fine, throw a wheel under the side just incase it slides off or something.

And of course, always have a friend with you when performing the work.

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Thanks for the replies. I tried it the way PZ suggested, but with the shallow V shape of my stands, it looked like all the weight was pushing on one side of the hook, which to me didn't look like it directed the force directly downward under the stands. I just took extra care when lifting to make sure the stands were all at equal heights and that the parts on the stands were well centered. Then I backed it up with a jack on each side in front.

So I could put one of these V shaped stands under the flat part of the rail directly inside of the stock jack lift points?

 

So I could put one of these V shaped stands under the flat part of the rail directly inside of the stock jack lift points?

Yes, just line them up front to back.