Have you considered MKV 2.0T coils?

 

No, I am not even sure what brand they put in it either time they were changed. I also don't remember it going dead on me before either. But, all the other symptoms are the same. And, of course, I assume the recall was only for one change?

 

what year is your vehicle ?

 

When i had the recall done, they replaced all four coils - with VW coils of course - even though I was having no problems. If you took it to a VW dealer, they should have done the same. While I believe there were two recall programs, I doubt much they'd do it again. You might want to consider if there's another issue; the current coils don't really fail all that much. Your profile says a 2002, with the AWM engine presumably. Any modifications? Have you had it scanned for specific trouble codes?

 

It's a 2002.

 

Scotts I didn't see your post until I replied to 99vwpassatvweb. I assume an AWM engine. No modifications have been done to it that I'm aware of. I am the second owner. The first owner was a history professor at the local college, so I doubt he did any modifications. No, I've not had the codes read since it started this.

 

Scotts: Yes, they replaced all four coils when I had the recall work done in 2011. I believe my repair shop replaced only the bad one this year when I had the tun up done. I'm looking for the receipt now and will update ASAP. Thanks all for your help!

 

Step 1: Read the codes to make sure there are misfires
Step 2: Test coil packs by switching one from a misfiring cylinder to another working cylinder - coilpacks are not the only thing that cause misfires
Step 3: Based on the above, either run to dealer and replace all 4 coilpacks for good measure, or post back and we can work from there.

 

Found the receipt. They replaced two coils, not one & they also put other codes on it (for things that haven't been fixed). They are:
1. Oxygen Sensor faulty OEM". Open circuit front is under this. I know this has to do w/the CAT.
2. Front motor mounts. Not sure if this is related or not. I know they hold the motor in place. The vehicle doesn't move when I change gears.
Would either of these issues explain the symptoms?

 

I had some random weird shuttering to begin creeping up on my 2004 AWM last year. It's like the car would almost stall just after fill up beginning last spring and continued for the most part until I installed 2.0 coil packs. I'm able to run the plugs gapped to between .040" and .043" with 0 issues now, and haven't felt the shuttering, stumbling since either. My car is APR tuned, but I doubt that has anything to do with it. Some people installed these coil packs for perceived "performance", while I installed them since I could run a wider gap in hopes of curing the stumbling, which is seems to have fixed completely.

 

We'd need to see the exact code for the cat, but if it's the pre-cat O2 sensor, it could affect things a bit.

 

I have the receipt from the dealership for the recall work. they replaced all four coils & the ignition coil on 06/14/11, checked the fuel line (I assume it was ok) & replaced the crankcase breather hose. It does state that I needed a new CAT. (Forgot about that). I was hoping to get the coil part #'s off the receipt so I could research them, no luck. What does "FC" stand for on the invoice? For the coils it's "FC: 28F3". Unfortunately, they did not put the codes on the receipt for the O2 Sensor.

 

I'd recommend having someone local scan the car with VCDS and print or email your codes, that way you can post up here whatever you have and someone will be able to guide you from there.

 

I will do that! Thanks for the help!

 

I didn't get to Auto Zone yesterday to get the codes read. But here's a new twist. This morning I put two quarts of 5W-30 in & on the way home tonight the oil light came on & I lost power. The RPM's were at about 30 and bottomed out (or close too it) The message that came up when the oil light came up was that the oil pressure dropped. The light has came on before but I don't remember seeing the oil pressure message. We stopped & got a quart of oil (hubby said it was SAE something. I don't remember what he said after SAE. We also checked the oil & it had oil in it.

 

Well, that complicates things. Why did you put in two full quarts of oil? Was it down that much, and after how long? That's like 40% of the oil capacity.

The oil pressure light and warning are VERY SERIOUS on these cars; running even briefly in that condition could cause major damage. If the crankcase is full and you still get the warning, even intermittently, you should not be running the engine. I don't even want to guess why you experienced a loss of power, but it does not bode well. Please give us more details on your oil loss and problems; in the meantime, search on "oil sludge."

 

Scotts: I have not seen any oil on the ground, Etc. under my car. The oil was changed in April. And, will do. I'll get the codes also today. Thanks for all the help!

 

The oil was changed in April.

And checked when? Not to be snide, but these cars are famous for leaking or otherwise using oil; you should really be checking the level every week or two. After you're done reading about oil sludge, you might want to ask around local VW-specialist shops about having an oil pressure test done. As you'll find, the problem is that sludge builds up on the pickup screen of the oil pump, starving the pump and dropping oil pressure. If you catch this soon enough you can save the engine. The solution is to (at minimum) drop the pan and clean the screen. Afterward, proper oil and prompt changes.

BTW, proper oil is one that bears VW 502.00 certification. This is typically a 5w40 synthetic. The 5w30 weight you mention is only listed as "acceptable" if 5w40 isn't available.

Good luck!

 

Gotcha Scotts. Also, should I be using regular or synthetic oil?

 

Also, should I be using regular or synthetic oil?

You MUST use synthetic oil. The original docs from VW failed to specify this on early models, and the engine failures cost the company - and owners! - millions. There were multiple class-action lawsuits over it. This isn't optional.

 

Finally got the codes from AutoZone. They are:
P304: Cylinder 4 misfire condition Vacuum leak on engine. Probable causes Ignition system fault, Fuel injector fault or engine mechanical condition. NOTE: On the recall paperwork it states "Checked Fuel Line" & nothing else, so I assume (wrong thing to do I know) no problems were found & no work was performed on it.
P321: Ignition engine speed input circuit range/performance. Open or short circuit condition. Probable causes: Poor electrical connection. Faulty CKP sensor.
P322: Ignition engine speed circuit no signal. NOTE: Explanation & causes are the same as for P321.
P352: Ignition coil 2 primary/secondary circuit. Open or short circuit condition. Probable causes: Poor electrical connection, fault spark plug (NOTE: Had these replaced in May of 2013) & Faulty ignition coil (NOTE: Recall work performed 06/14/11 & two were replaced in May of 2013) GRRRRR!!!!:thumbdown &
P420: Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1. Faulty CAT (NOTE: Stated in inspection notes from recall work 06/14/11.). Probable causes: Rich Air/fuel ratio, Air leak near rear HO2S (Heated oxygen sensor). or Faulty fuel control HO2S (Heated oxygen sensor)". NOTE: Listed for codes pulled AFTER tune up in May of 2013.)

Now, two other side notes (possible factors) I got gas on 07/21/13 at Murphy's (Wal-mart's gas station). I usually use Shell Mid-grade (my guys say it's ok to use mid-grade even though the manual says premium) & I got Shell regular (or hubby did rather) on 07/29/13. I didn't notice the poor performance until after 07/21/13. Is this just coincidence or should I try a fuel treatment?

Thanks again for all of yall's help!!:bowdown:

 

So which of these should I work on to eliminate rough idle & stalling symptoms?

 

Oh my, after skimming the thread I'm confused as to what we're talking about now as its evolved from ignition coils to oil pressure, and now gas.

Here is a rundown:
The best brand of ignition coil is either OEM from the dealer, or good aftermarket brands would be Bremi, Hitachi, or Huco (cheapest.) There are other brands such as Karlyn STI, no name Advance Auto/Advance/Carquest/etc., and than eBay ones. Stick to the first, and stay far away from no-name eBay makes and you should be good. They're relatively cheap, ranging from about $25-35 dependent upon brand and store.

The 1.8t should use SYNTHETIC oil changed at a minimum of 5k miles (3k is on the extreme safe side.) The oil capacity on these cars is about 4.5 to 4.7 qts depending on the filter size. If using the proper filter, which is technically the Mann 940/25 or equivalent, it should be more towards the 4.7 amount. If you're using dino/cheap regular oil, you need to stop and convert. Reason being, turbos run at extraordinarily hot temperatures because they are driven via exhaust gas, and the bearing that runs the turbine spins in excess of 100k rpms which generates a lot of heat. Refer to the VW 502.00 specification as Scott has recommended. Popular brands though include Mobil 1 0w-40 and Castrol Syntec 5w-40.

The 1.8t also specifies the use of premium gasoline (minimum of 91 octane or greater, usually only up to 93 in the US) per owner's manual and fuel door. The car is tuned to run 87 octane however, so that shouldn't be a huge issue and causing your losses in power. You might notice a bit of difference between the two and a drop in economy using the lesser. I'm going to trust the engineers at VW at this one and run what they want for "optimal" performance. At some point VW recommended using top-tier brands such as Shell or BP for gas, as it's not as much as a crap shoot as say Sheetz, Eagles, etc. But that's superfluous sometimes IMHO.

Good luck with the rest, but that's a brief consolidation of what you should know for this engine and platform. Listen to the warnings about the oil pressure light though, that light is not to be taken lightly, and I hope you've escaped a dreaded problem by being low on oil.

 

Oh my, after skimming the thread I'm confused as to what we're talking about now as its evolved from ignition coils to oil pressure, and now gas.

We keep getting additional information from the OP. Taken all together, it's pretty clear she has ignition problems - either in the actual coils and plugs, or in the wiring. Engine speed sensor, same thing. The gasoline thing is a sideshow, just poor practice, not anything immediately harmful. The oil pressure warning revelation, plus the possible use of dino oil, is what set off my alarm bells. That's what has the most urgent and expensive consequences.

kimybrown, please note: a poor-running engine that's misfiring can easily contaminate and ruin a catalytic converter. A bad rear O2 sensor can also make it LOOK like your CAT is bad.

 

Thanks vbora! I just hate buying the faulty ignition coils & throwing good money after being bad. The oil issue is resolved. Now on to finding those ignition coils! Thanks to all again!

 

The oil issue is resolved.

How?

 

One last question, the dealer or "OEM" coils are NOT faulty? . My shop (A VW/Audi shop) said they were.

 

Which coils are you talking about, the ones that are in there now, or the previous ones? If you're getting a misfire (P304) the coil (or plug) is suspect whether is old or new, OEM or aftermarket. Many people - myself included - never had trouble with the recalled coils; a few had trouble with the replacements.

 

scotts: The oil issue was resolved by adding more oil & the light or message has not came back on (I will start using just synthetic 5W-30). The new coils that were put in by the dealership. I've already had two replaced in May & I assume the other two are now going bad based on the symptoms. (all four were replaced at the dealership then two of those replaced in May of this year.)
What does "OP" refer to in "We keep getting additional information from the OP."?

Thanks again!

 

OP means Original Poster, the one who started the thread. A crankcase almost empty of oil will certainly turn on the oil pressure warning; but since you say you've seen it before, I'd 1. Keep the crankcase full, and 2. Keep a careful eye out for that warning. There's a reasonable chance you still have a problem developing. Also curious - multiple people have told you to use 5w40 weight, as VW specifies. It's great that you're switching to synthetic, buy why 5w30 instead of the preferred weight?

 

if the coils are only 35 bucks a piece I would replace all of them at once with good OEM ones.

 

Why should we (owners in general) keep having to pay for faulty products is my point!) It makes no sense. They need to do R&D here, not Germany if it's a moisture problem (As I've read elsewhere as to what actually cause the problem w/the coils.) I know, I know. They want to spend less money themselves, but it dang sure don't help w/brand loyalty.