Castrol 5/40 is what I run. You should be fine with that. switching to synthetic wont hurt it. I have heard going from synthetic to conventional could be an issue but I have never seen anything to validate that on our V-6, might be an issue with the 1.8.

The crush washer is probably on your oil pan drain plug, unless it is leaking after you tighten it down, I would not worry about replacing it. I have never replaced mine. You can probably take it down to any parts store and match it up if it needs replaced.

from the link.. I was just at the VW dealer and the parts guy was telling me they just had a guy do this.. his oil pan had 12 quarts of oil in it and his tranny was bone dry.

IMPORTANT! The drain plug is under the belly pan toward the front of the car. DO NOT CONFUSE THE TRANNY PLUG WITH THE OIL PLUG. THE TRANNY PLUG IS LOCATED BEHIND THE BELLY PAN AND VISIBLE WHEN BELLY PAN IS ON THE CAR. THE TRANNY PLUG IS SOCKETED FOR STAR SHAPED TORX WRENCH! DO NOT REMOVE THE TRANNY PLUG!

 

Originally, VW specified a new washer with each oil change. Then they switched to recommending a new drain plug, with integral washer, each time. I've been using the new setup, as my dealer charges me less than $2.00 for the plug, but to be honest, I rarely if ever changed the washer on any previous VW.

Oh, and really don't drain the transmission. Three or four people a year do that on this forum.

 

I just did my first oil change on my V6 Passat. It's not hard. I have always replaced the drain plug washer with a new copper one on my other VWs. They are available at Napa/Autozone type stores. On my next change, I'll throw in a magnetic drain plug. I have read that it can be possible to change oil with out jacking up the car.

 

I have read that it can be possible to change oil with out jacking up the car.

Maybe, but why? Even if you're skinny enough to slide or reach under, lifting the car doesn't take long, and makes the job infinitely easier. Gives you a chance to look around under there, too - an excellent way to detect trouble brewing. If you don't have ramps, jack-stands, or both - you've got the wrong car.

 

I remember my first oil change


:lol:

 

Sometimes I park my 1.8t one side on the curb (tilting towards the drain plug for a better oil drainage) . Also, I would replace the oil pump. I envy V6 owners. How easy it looks to drop the oil pan on a V6 compared to 1.8t!

 

Also, I would replace the oil pump.

True, that IS recommended at every oil change. :crazy:

 

^ ha totally unrelated.

 

Screw it. You need new oil? Just put a new engine in instead. Go big or go home.

 

Go big or go home? Screw the engine, buy a new car every 3000 miles.

 

Brandon, all of these threads are going to be locked if we keep having back and forths on all of them haha

OP: Good luck with the oil change. REMEMBER - identify both engine and transmission drain plugs and only remove the one for the engine oil. You wouldn't think it would need to mentioned, nonetheless repeated, but here we are..

 

:rofl: I'll stop

 

Yo-all! Of course I did not mean replacing the pump at every oil change. He said he found some shavings in oil. I thought it might be good idea to replace the oil pump once and get better lubrication now that it is easy to remove the bottom of oil pan.

 

No one said anything about the Auto RX or the oil filter, so I'm just going to go ahead and order them.

 

I did two treatments of AutoRx on my car at 131K. They recommend two treatments if your car is past 100K.

Use 5w40 Rotella oil from Walmart when doing AutoRx. DO NOT use fully synthetic oil because the chemicals in that will conflict with AutoRx.

Intervals:
AutoRx with Rotella - 3K
Rinse cycle with Rotella - 3K
AutoRx with Rotella - 3K
Rinse cycle with Rotella - 3K

And yeah, I don't jack up the car when changing oil. It's convenient and fast.


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