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Check Brake Pads light not turning off

117K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  svenglar  
#1 ·
The most common sense fix would be change the front pads and sensors and the light goes off. My mechanic just changed the pads and sensors (along with a few other problems) and the light is still on.

He said when looking at it originally, the pads were worn all the way to the sensors which was the reason for the change.

*The light originally came on about 7 months ago and I had the pads checked and the guy said they were basically brand new and that sensor was "wrapped" funny. I'm not sure what that means, but he said he could replace the pads and get rid of the light or I could just leave them off and deal with the light until I actually need them changed. I chose the latter and here we are.*

So, now, we have unplugged the battery thinking it may reset the system but no luck.

Any suggestions? Something a dealership would have to reset? I trust my mechanic, but do you think somewhere in the assembly something was not reconnected properly? I'll have him look again later this week when I get the front struts replaced.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I have had the same issue off and on since the last time I had front pads put on. I am going to to do rear pads tomorrow and take the snow tires off. While I am in there I am going to look for broken wire, if I cannot find anything wrong I am going to just cut the wires from the pad and connect them together. I am hoping this will resolve the issue as I have to get the annual safety inspection on Tuesday.
 
#5 ·
he knew there were not rear sensors. I'll have him take another look and test to see if the connection was shorted. I, myself, am kinda shooting in the dark here. I just take what I hear from him and throw it up here. I don't actually have any idea what the sensor looks like, what the connection looks like, or if there is even a wire that has to be connected (I would assume their is a loose wire that just connects to the pad or something). If someone had pictures of a proper VW brake assembly or maybe could explain how exactly it is put together that would really help me out because I'm just curious to know what's going for future reference.

My mechanic primarily does hondas and toyotas, but I've trusted him with most of my car work (that are general fixes) and never had problems. He will always tell me when there is something he would rather not do and have a certified vw mechanic do it.
 
#7 ·
Try this:
Unhook both battery cables from the battery for at least 5 minutes. After the 5 minutes is up, touch both the neg and pos cables to each other for about a second. This usually discharges the capacitor that "holds" the code.

Reconnect the cables to the battery, start your car, and check for the warning light.


Hope it works for you. Lemme know, ok?





uu8
 
#9 ·
IF i touch the neg/pos together (makes me feel like i'm blowing up my car) and the capacitor actually discharges will that reset my key fob as well? and will i need any sort of code to 'reactivate' my radio. my mechanic was worried that if i disconnected the battery that my radio MIGHT require a code to be able to turn on again. i had no idea what the code would possibly have been and i said screw it and just unplugged the negative for about 5 minutes and the radio was fine.

any other thoughts on this tapping neg/pos together? worst thing that could happen by doing that?
 
#11 ·
I just fixed mine, I had to jump a wire from one contact to the other. Somewhere in the wire from the connector to the pad one of the wires must have been broken. I used a short piece of wire to make the connection.
 
#12 ·
Yes there is a Radio Code (call the nearest dealership and they can tell you your code).

No need to jump your battery (i shuddered when I read that)

What I did to get rid of that code was to disconnect the sensor from the back of the brake pad. cut the wire about an inch below the connector and twist and secure them together. This tricks the computer into thinking the sensor is reading "OK".

If you do this and for some reason the warning is still present you have a couple options. Drive the car for 4 or 5 cycles (a cycle being - Start car, drive, turn off car). Or go to the nearest Autozone or similar parts store and have then scan your car and clear the warning light.


You don't really need to have the brake pad wear sensor if you are half-way competent about your car. Just look down there every 3 months or so and visually see how worn down your pads are.
 
#13 ·
I called AutoZone and they said that their scanner would not remove the indicator light code and that it was just for other engine codes. So, do you suppose that is correct and if so is there a shop that anyone knows of where I could just get that code erased and avoid the VW stealership. I don't want to pay $85 diagnostic fee just to remove a code.
 
#15 ·
The light comes on if there is no continuity - if thewire breaks, or the sensor gets worn away (breaking it's continuity). It goes straight off if there is continuity. There are no codes to reset or batteries to disconnect, or things to buy. Just take the wheels off, unplug the sensor from the loom on the inner wing, and check for continuity through the sensor (there should be) and then try shorting the loom connector on the inner wings with a short jumper wire, the light/message should disappear. Some garages get the wrong pads for earlier cars and while they do fit, they don't come with sensors, so they refit the old ones thinking that they are triggered by the sensor shoring to earth via the disc, but they are incorrect.
 
#16 ·
alright. well i'll get my mechanic to test the connection middle of this week. he still has to replace a couple more items and put new struts on so he will have the front end off the ground anyways. thanks for all the input and i'll post my result and let you know if we find the issue.
 
#17 · (Edited)
snapdragon, i took off one wheel and looked at everything (first time) to get an idea of what I would be explaining to my mechanic. I was going to try and short the loom connector and see if I could get the light off but I had an issue getting the brake-side connection loose so I just stopped prying because I saw a small plastic clip already torn slightly. Is there something I have to unclip before the connector comes out? I want to take another look at it tomorrow along with the left side to see if I can resolve it myself.

*and just so I know... when buying new brake pads AND new sensors would the sensors look like a 6 inch long cable with the connector at one end?*