amp model?

 

http://www.shopdit.com/Power-Acoustik-4-channel-Class-Ab-Power-Series-Amplifier-300-watt-PS4-300

 

I did this a few years ago on my boat but don't remember much. You should have docs that came with the unit to show you the wiring set up. I believe that 2 channels hook up normally and for the bridged circuit you use the + on the L channel and the - on the R channel. Check your instructions, if not try a websearch for model specific docs.
Jay is much more familiar with this, trust his explanation.

 

uaually it's the positive of one side and negative of the other. Same for channels 3 and 4. A lot of amps bold these special terminals like this + - + -

 

I threw the manual away, I just called AC's tech service, and there was no one to pick up..... so, an amp is bridgeable or not is all depend on how the manufacture made it? I just checked the amp, and I didn't see the bold signs

 

so, an amp is bridgeable or not is all depend on how the manufacture made it? I just checked the amp, and I didn't see the bold signs

I believe so, I have an older 4 channel amp that, when bridged, will not support other single channels. 4 channel or 1 channel bridged.

But it was a pretty cheesy amp. I'd think most modern amps could do what you want.

 

According to this page: http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2006/product_AUDIO_amp_POWER.htm

It doesn't look like it's bridgeable. Unless I'm missing something and all amps are inherently bridgeable...

 

Everything posted states that the amps are tri mode capable which to me indicates that they are 4 channel amps that you can run 2 channels normally and 1 channel bridged.
Take a photo of the speaker connection panel on the amp and post it, should be relatively simple to assess and get you up and running.

 

 

Sorry, the photo is too blurry and out of focus to see anything. Looks like something from my POS camera phone.

 

according to this:http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2006/product_AUDIO_amp_POWER.htm
it is not bridgeable.

sorry.

 

x2 if it is the PS4-300.
All but 2 of those listed are bridgeable, curious why it says Tri-Mode Capable.

 

is there any 40rms, 50rms 60rms subwoofer? I can just buy 2 and put them into the sub box..... tried ebay and wasn't able to find anything. I want Bazooka

 

Use 2x100w rms subwoofers so they don't distort or go back to plan A and sell the amp and get another bridgeable one.

 

A speaker's RMS rating has nothing to do with distortion. The reason that there tends to be distortion in setups like these, is because people are unhappy with the output of the drivers, so they feel they can crank the gain to compensate for it, which tends to overdrive the amp leading to unclean output from it.

You could run a 1500 watt rated sub, on 20 watts if you so desired, and it will probably be distortion free if setup properly, just don't come to me when you aren't pleased with the output levels.

 

A speaker's RMS rating has nothing to do with distortion. The reason that there tends to be distortion in setups like these, is because people are unhappy with the output of the drivers, so they feel they can crank the gain to compensate for it, which tends to overdrive the amp leading to unclean output from it.

Good point and exactly the way I see it.

You could run a 1500 watt rated sub, on 20 watts if you so desired, and it will probably be distortion free if setup properly.

Correct again, you could also run 20w speakers with a 100w amp but if you crank it the speaker coils will blow.
My rule of thumb has always been to use speakers that were twice the rated output of the amp. The amp originally stated had about 40w rms and that's where I derived my 100w from.

 

Good point and exactly the way I see it.

Correct again, you could also run 20w speakers with a 100w amp but if you crank it the speaker coils will blow.
My rule of thumb has always been to use speakers that were twice the rated output of the amp. The amp originally stated had about 40w rms and that's where I derived my 100w from.

ok, guys... generally speaking, the rule of thumb is to match the speaker RMS power rating to the RMS power rating of the amp. this doubling the power rating of a speaker to the amp capability is overkill that isn't necessary. if you match the rated power of the amp to the speaker as closely as you can, you'll always be fine.

that being said, I once had an amp that was rated at 800 watts into a 2 ohm load. I had it driving a Type R, rated at 250W. I didn't blow it nor stress it; I made sure the gain was turned down to a conservative point. I loved having the headroom... :wrench:

 

ok, guys... generally speaking, the rule of thumb is to match the speaker RMS power rating to the RMS power rating of the amp. this doubling the power rating of a speaker to the amp capability is overkill that isn't necessary. if you match the rated power of the amp to the speaker as closely as you can, you'll always be fine.

I bow to your expertise and still learning after all these years. I will now be able to use speakers matched to the amp instead of oversizing. Thx :bowdown:

 

and maybe save a little money, as well.

 

One more question, the speaker that I have is the Cadence -US693, it has LF and HF input, LF for subwoofer, and HF for normal speaker right? These are free stuff from my brother's car