I've "repaired" quite a few 1.8 tensioners by removing the valve and cleaning (remove the pieces of crud inside) the piston area. I might have even swapped a few valves, if for some reason I didn't like the old ones. Easy job as long as you don't lose the small screws inside the engine. On the V6 I don't remember ever removing one. I assume the one on the front (driver's side bank) is pretty easy, maybe a little harder for the one on the right side, due to position...

 

So the valve is a serviceable item, I just didn't want to buy it and find out its non serviceable. I plan on just replacing the valve itself since, the oil seals inside the unit have failed and are ejecting oil out the top of the electrical connector.

 

I searched around on that a while back and could not find anything on doing it to a B5 or B5.5 V6, but it is fairly common practice on the newer engines from what I recall.
If you decide to go for it, take pictures and post the results and a DIY.

 

Is VCDS lying to me? It says n205 valve but the actual part numbers on the valve itself on my car do not correspond to a n205 valve.

 

Even though that number identifies the part, that's not a part number in the normal way we think of them. It's more like a module or component identifier. As an example, the N75 valve has a totally different part number. Matter of fact, there are several versions (with unique part numbers) of an N75 valve.

 

That makes sense, I cannot find any new valves to fit to my engine though all are second hand. The way I see it is that I have two options. 1: Take a hit and replace the entire assembly along with all the gaskets and seals that are on the way. 2: Just keep driving. The engine runs a little rough but its not extreme. This valve has been a problem for a while, whats another 1-2k miles. I plan to get a new VW in the next year anyhow.

 

I don't think the valve is indeed a "serviceable item". Meaning, you can't buy it separate from buying a complete tensioner (or at least, it wasn't available a couple of years back). I just had some other valves from other tensioners.

 

On the valves for the 1.8t/2.0 they have this spiral with holes in it as part of the valve, is this the same for the 2.8, or is it a separate part Pic for reference below.
1.8t/2.0:

2.8:

 

What part number did you find on your valve?
If you look on the power connector of the 1.8T valve, the part number is 06F109257C. You need to find the number on yours and probably u may be able to find it separate, if that's the case.
The price for the 1.8T/2.0T valve @ ECS Tuning is $ 173.
The whole tensioner assembly for the 2.8 is $ 163. Although it seems that the valve is part of the assembly (at least according to partsbase.org), why not just buying the tensioner assembly if your car runs rough? Moreover, you lose oil, you get the engine bay all messy, etc, etc...chain reaction. I spent $ 114 on one damn plastic tail lens... cosmetic crap. Why would you risk causing more problems to the engine for $ 163 bucks?
(I'm just asking, don't mean to patronize or crucify you)

 

The numbers on the valve it self are
C271300702
and
21600005E

I suppose buying a new assembly and removing the valve is practically my only option to reduce engine fatigue. My problem with actually replacing the entire assembly is that once I get in there I have a whole load of things to replace: valve cover gaskets, half moon seal, mating gasket for the tensioner, and cam plug while i'm in the position to do so. This racks up a bill that I really don't want at the moment, hopefully the vdub will let me off easy with just transferring the valve from a new assembly. And please patronize away

... Any input is greatly appreciated !

But seriously though, I really appreciate all input from other vw owners.

 

If you replace the entire mechanism you can do it by only removing the intake cam you will need the cam sprocket locking tool and the compressor for the CCT but you can do this without removing the timing belt and the exhaust camshaft and you do not have to put the front end in the service mode it's tricky but this saves a lot of time I have done this on either head driver or passenger:thumbup:

 

You won't need the cam lock bar if you don't remove the TB.

 

Just ordered all the hardware, seals and gaskets. Ill see what this does. Ill get as many pics as possible

 

If you have time and knack (or patience) for it, then please document the valve replacement and share it with everyone else.
My Passat is an ATQ as well, so I for one am very interested in how it turns out for you.
-
Was about to say the other day (but I got busy and didn't have time for the computer) - although those two numbers that are on the valve and are also "referenced" by some people - as found in Google , they're not real "part numbers" in the VW/Audi system. Hence, I doubt that for the 2.8L you can find the valve as a separate and serviceable item.

 

I have vacation time in the next month so I will have time to document the whole process. I'll just drive the Mitsu untill I get the Passat sorted. When I complete the write-up I will leave a link to it in this thread.

 

Anyone have the torque specs for the valve cover nuts, cam position sensor bolts, cam retainer bolts, and the tensioner mounting bolts?

 

7ftlbs or 10nm

cam retainer bolts? Camshaft bearing caps?

 

Yeah I know them as retainers, I suppose the English name for them is cam bearing caps, language barrier. Got to love us Germans.

 

Torque specs for (2.8 V6 ATQ DOHC ) valve cover retaining nuts 84 inch pounds// camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 84 inch pounds//. Camshaft drive chain tensioner mounting bolts 84 inch pounds ( ATQ DOHC) I can't find cam position sensor bolt torque but they are the same size as other bolts(M6) so I would say 84 inch pounds will be safe also cam chain tensioner they have right and left hand cylinder head different part numbers be sure you get the correct one :thumbup:

 

A little update

After some time with the ratchet and skinned knuckles, I removed the passenger side valve cover. Much to my ultimate sadness, the cam chain tensioner plastic shoe was just sitting in the well of the cams. Not to mention, the chain was eating away at what was left of the CCT. It's weird I never noticed any noise despite the amount of damage that had been done. It must be that German engineering aka VW part # QUI3TAUt0 . Any how, the auto has been parked while I catch the bus to work. Not really sure what I want to do with her yet. Could this be the end of Heidi or is there still hope.

 

It shouldn't be the end of her. What all do you need in order to set everything right? A replacement CCT and associated gaskets? That's got to cost less then the car is worth.

 

I'm afraid metal shavings have made there way around, both CCTs are in the same condition. Perhaps i'm lucky and all the shavings were washed down to the oil pan, but that would be too perfect. Also there's some wear on the cams that i'm not too happy about, wondering if this engine was ever starved of oil before I got it.

 

Would it be worth shopping around for a used replacement engine?

 

I'm really hesitant on buying used, id be willing to look at refurb/rebuilt engines. Although they seem to be around the same price as the cars market price.

 

I have the same problem with my CCT solenoid; there is oil leaking out near the electrical connector. The solenoid does not have the spirals, it has a flat face that connects to the CCT body (shown in post #9). If I buy one of those cheap CCTs from ebay, do you think I can just replace the solenoid?

2001, 1.8t
CCT part number: 058109088K

 

Why not buy a used unit, you know that will fit.