No gas.
No spark.
No air.

 

Check fuses 34, 32, and 28 with a multimeter for continuity.

 

Fuses good. Vagcom output test confirm fuel pump and injectors good.

 

My grandfather once told me that a car will run without the right amount of gas, and it will run without the right amount of air, but it won't run without the right amount of spark. Pull your plugs, stick them into their respective coilpacks, have someone crank the engine, and see if each plug sparks when you hold it against the engine block. If any of them don't spark, switch them to another coilpack to see if they do spark. If they do, the original coilpack is bad. If they don't, the ICM on the top of the airbox is bad.

 

Temperature sensor? When mine went bad it would crank but wouldn't turn over.

 

OH NOooo... Say it ain't so, Bill!


Most likely simple solution.

...Pull your plugs, stick them into their respective coilpacks, have someone crank the engine, and see if each plug sparks when you hold it against the engine block. If any of them don't spark, switch them to another coilpack to see if they do spark. If they do, the original coilpack is bad. If they don't, the ICM on the top of the airbox is bad.

Yeah, with our ECUs and our VAG-COMs we tend to forget all the normal troublshooting tools.
Gotta have fuel.
Gotta have air.
Gotta have spark.
Gotta have spark at the right time.

Does it act like it wants to start, but doesn't? Or does it just spin w/o even acting like it wants to start?

Does it smell like gasoline when it doesn't start? If you are getting fuel but no spark, it'll smell like gas, but you know that. How does VAG-COM prove that your fuel pump and injectors are working, if the car is not running?

 

When you check with vagcom for fault codes, scan the instrument cluster too. A bad CTS pops a code there in addition to the engine module.

 

I did a full autoscan to make sure it wasn't the comfort/security modules too.

It seems I've fixed it. Sort of. Maybe I should say I figured it out. It appears my cool little light weight battery doesn't like the 40 degree nights we are getting here in the New England. Just enough current to crank it over a few times but not enough for spark. I put a charger on it for 20 minutes then went to high current start and it started. I have two more races this year and then it's back to the old Die Hard for the winter!!

 

...It appears my cool little light weight battery doesn't like the 40 degree nights we are getting here in the New England. Just enough current to crank it over a few times but not enough for spark...

OH, NOOooooo....

Yours is a Braille, right? Well, I guess in a couple of weeks, we'll find out how well my Odyssey lightweight battery handles the New England cold.

 

I find it bizarre that there's enough power to crank the motor but not enough to spark the plugs.

And deus, you can kiss my ass. Bill and I have different priorities than you do.

 

Gosh. Tempting offer, but I eat enough crap in my corporate job. (grin)

What are your different priorities, Rusty? Trying to build muscle by hand-cranking your engine, or what? All I'm saying is that I don't understand how removing 30 pounds of sprung weight can possibly have any meaningful effect on the handling of the car.

 

Maybe my Braille is piece of poop. I'd rather have a poopy battery than an intermittent electrical problem :nervous:

POOPY.

Sorry.

 

Why don't you have any swaybars, Rusty?

 

I took them off so I could be sure my car would always start, even with a lightweight battery.

 

So, after talking a few Audi tech buddies of mine they said this is a common thing. All accessories work fine, car cranks perfectly but no spark. Older VW's have a tech notice out recommending adding a ground wire from the battery to the engine. This is the only car that I've owned that I haven't done that too :banghead: I guess because I pretty much built all of the others and did engine swaps creating my own wiring :biglaugh:

Guess what I'm doing tomorrow.

Hey Rusty, what did you do in a past life to deusexaethera oke:

 

I was just asking a question, scirocco78. I have no idea why someone would run a car with no swaybars, so I'm hoping he'll inform me.

 

What does that have to do with a car that doesn't start?

 

^ hee-hee, that was just for entertainment while I searched for my original thread. search sucks, I can't find it. But I did find these:

As for "wallow", the right way to get rid of wallow is with properly stiff springs. Manufacturers use beefy swaybars to keep the ride cushy (soft springs) for the general public. But swaybars actually decrease traction because they transfer a disproportionate amount of weight to the outside wheel. It feels like you're going faster, but you're not.

anyone upgrade to the 1be frt sway bar?
7 seconds a lap.

 

AHA! I found the original thread: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182344&page=4&pp=30 start at post 110