Here is a link to the DIY repair for the white clip that snapped:
http://passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291396&

The pink clips are Audi parts that are much beefier. You have to drill some holes in the existing brackets, but I have fixed both my front windows this way, and have had no problems so far. I used a washer on the end of the clip to make sure nothing slides off.

I will let someone else do the honors with the other questions, since I don't know what is required to replace that rubber window trim.

Good Luck with the repairs.

 

Thanks for that - useful to know if I manage to break the things in the frontdoor as well - but the plastic bit I currently need is for the rear door.....

 

Bump - anyone know how the window scrapers attach?

 

Found someone selling Passat regulator clips on Ebay pretty cheap. Not sure if its exactly the right part but took a punt on it & bought one. We shall see.....

 

Update on this - Ebay man thinks his part will fit my car, which is just as well because I was at the dealer's this morning & the rear window clip is not listed as a seperate part - you have to buy the whole lift arrangement inc guides and cables etc - over £100 in the UK.

The plastic dowels that secure the glass into the clip OTOH are pennies. (Part number V6N0 839 511)

Therefore if you have to remove the rear window its probably best to drill out the dowels and replace them rather than exert too much force trying to push them out & risk damaging the window clip as I have done (partially).

I also bought the 4 rubber "scrapers" - £160 inc Tax ($256) near enough :-(

Seems a lot for 4 bits of rubber but if they don't seal to the glass then you get water in the doors which potentially damages the locks and possibly gets into the car etc etc etc....

 

Picked up the window scrapers today - had a look at one of them & it *looks* like its just a snap/press fit onto the top of the door - no obvious signs of where screws or bolts etc would be used to secure it.

Methinks these are going to be fun (NOT!)

(Quite a complex part though - you can see why they cost what they do).

 

Please be sure to update us with how the install goes - preferably with pictures. Matter of fact, even good pictures of the part alone would be welcome. I have to change my lock module soon, and I'm deciding if I want to do the seal/scraper as well.

 

My "window scrapers" started to bubble as well. Never attacked the problem because I didn't know how to deal with it. I'd be interested in photos as well.

 

Well, having looked at the parts I can tell you why they bubble - the thing is basically a piece of metal encased in rubber but you can actually see the metal in some places along the length of it. Water must get in there somehow & then that rots & bubbles up under the rubber

The key question is going to be "what's the top edge of the door like under the scraper?"

I actually expect it will be OK & assuming it is when I install them I will put a load of waxoyl underneath the scraper I think - or maybe some grease just to stop any water penetrating the thing again.

Once these are on I would expect they will significantly out last the rest of the car though.

What is notieceable is how much more pliable the fresh rubber is. Given the problems that occur in Passat doors I think people should look at replacing these anyway even if they are not bubbing just to make sure the seal to the glass is maintained. If it isn't you get water down inside the door and bad things can happen I think......

 

Hey Iain - Did you ever take pics of your window scrapper install? Where did you buy the parts?
How do you remove/replace the window scraper? It's not obvious to me how they attach.

My drivers side has been bubbled for about 6 months now and I would definitely like to replace.

 

Yes, inquiring minds want to know. It's warm enough now to work on my door lock module, and I want to know if I should do this while the door is apart.

Havn't actually put the new one on yet! When I came to do it I found they had sold me two LH rear scrapers instead of 1 LH & 1 RH.

Needless to say I found that AFTER I had removed the RHS scraper!

For the rear they are very easy to get off - they are just a press fit onto the the lip at the top of the door. I took the RH one off when I had the door disassembled to fix the lock (didn't take the glass out).

However, I actually think you can do it without disassembling the door at all. All you need to do is drop the window as far as it will go & then with a flat blade screwdriver work from the inside at the rear of the scraper & just lift it up. Once it starts to come you can just grab it & remove the rest of it - it just pulls off.

You will bend it it as it comes off but that's no issue if you are replacing it. I have one small patch of rust under mine that I need to treat but apart from that the paintwork is OK.

I had to reassemble my door & it has just had a strip of Duck tape over where the scraper should be for the last week while they got me the right part. Today I am going to try & fit that & I am pretty sure that I can just press the new scraper into place without disassembling the door again.

The front doors are are different problem - the scraper goes underneath the wing mirror housing so I need to figure out how to remove that first. Off to do a search of the PW archives now as it happens.

I will update this later if I get a chance to refit the new scraper.

 

Yes, inquiring minds want to know. It's warm enough now to work on my door lock module, and I want to know if I should do this while the door is apart.

 

OK, replacing the window scrapers (AKA the rubber strips at the top of the door down the outside of the glass) turned out to be much easier than expected.

There is a metal part that runs the length of the scraper & so removing the old scrapers will most likely bend them so they won't be re-useable.

You do not need to diasassemble the doors, remove the glass, door cards or anything similar. Total time to do all 4 doors: less than 40 minutes as long as you don't need to repair any paintwork underneath them.

For the rear doors, drop the window as far as it will go & then you will find you can grab hold of the scraper about a third of the way from the back of the door. Just pull it up & it will come away. These things just press fit onto the top of the doors, there are no screws, rivets or clips holding them.

Clean up the area under where the scraper goes & check for blisters in the paint & treat as necessary. Line up the new scraper & press it into place - there are a couple of rubber tongues on the ends that need to be helped into place but otherwise you just press it on. I put a squirt of waxoyle down the groove before I put them on which will have lubricated it a bit & made it easier (and also hopefully sealed it against any future water ingress).

The front doors are much the same except that you also need to remove the wing mirrors. To do this open the door & get your fingers round the top front corner of the door card & pull it away from the door half an inch - a couple of the securing tabs will pop out.

Next remove the trim piece directly inside the wing mirror mounting that holds the small speaker by pulling it out from under the rubber seal, up & away.

Behind there is a single bolt that holds the wing mirror - needs a T45 Torx bit.

Once you have removed the mirror then remove the window scraper - I found the easiest way to do that on the front doors was to start at the back of the door & just pull it up. As above, it bends the old scraper but that doesn't matter if you are replacing them.

Refit the new scraper, replace the wing mirror & then the small trim piece inside - with that there are two small grooves at the bottom that locate onto a couple of plastic tabs a couple of inches down inside the door so make sure they locate correctly. Then just bang the door card back into place - you may need to bend the top lip back over the top of the door frame to get it to relocate properly if you pulled it away quite "firmly" in the first place!

If you have gaps between the glass and the rubber down the outside of the door or the rubber appears to have rust bubbling underneath it this is well worth doing. Otherwise you get water down inside the door & specifically onto the lock mechanisms which doesn't do them a lot of good. The scrapers are pretty expensive but less so (and much easier to replace) than door locks.

I got the scrapers from the dealer - I don't think you can get them anywhere else.

 

Thanks for the feedback Iain. I'll call the dealer and get a price.
I have a junkyard near me with a couple passats, I might make an attempt to remove one in good condition since they always give me great deals. But that is probably wishful thinking and a part not made for on/off performance.

I'm afraid I've already messed up my door locking mechanism since it only activates via the remote about half the time.

 

The rubber on the new scrapers is way, way softer than on the old ones - I wouldn't bother putting S/H ones on unless the junkyard cars are really pretty new.

I've noticed my remote is less reliable than it used to be. Mine is in the key & I've got brand new batteries in it as well.

Some of it was definitly to do with the door lock in the right rear confusing the CCM (I think), it had pretty much stopped working, but there may be more to it. When I get some time I might have a look at where the ariel wire goes & see if its damaged at all.

Its 100 times better since I replaced the door lock though & works most of the time - but usually only within about 6-10 feet max.

Have you checked your puddle lights? It may be that one of the diodes has gone.

Another good check is to lock the car & then unlock it. Wait 30 secs or so & it should lock itself.

Then repeat but open a door (and leave it open) after you unlock it - the car should not re-lock itself. Mine failed this test on the RR door - it locked itself after 30 seconds with the door open because the microswitch that detects whether the door is open (which is in the lock) had failed.

Good luck

 

Tip for you all -

I just got around to replacing my window slot seals. As stated, it's easier that it looks, provided someone like Iain acts as pathfinder and tells you how. The tip is to cover or otherwise protect your tweeter housing while working. I'd always thought it was hard plastic, but it's covered by the same "soft touch" finish so much of the interior is.

Mine looked perfect, but only because no-one had ever disturbed them. If the car is old enough to require new window slot seals, the soft touch has deteriorated, whether it shows or not. In my case, just resting on the door card while I worked was enough to mar them. Be careful!

 

i have the same problem, tryin to fix it now

 

Does anyone know the part number for the B5 driver's side front door scraper (AKA outside window slot seal)? Price at dealer or any leads on getting one for under $100? Thanks.

 

Should be 3B0 837 477 A. They were about $90 a couple of years ago when I replaced mine; never thought that price would seem like a bargain. One thing I can tell you is, NOT to look for a used one. The chances of removing it in re-usable condition are extremely slim.

 

Thanks for the part info. I figured a used one would not fit right due to the metal strip inside that seems to get contorted when you remove the old one. Very hard to find this part on the internet. I will call a place called JimEllisVwparts.com to see if they have it and the price. Part number may be outdated. Outrageous price for such a simple piece.

 

Yes, I think the current version has a "C" at the end.