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Discussion starter · #101 ·
do you just let piston "pilot" itself into engine cylinder through your tapered heavy walled tube ?
Yeah pretty much. You still have to have some finesse but it slides in real easy.

on the pic with the block upright and on the intermediate pan I notice " red" ,is that hi-temp loctite spray sealant?
Nope, just regular Permatex Hi-Temp silicone from a tube that I layed down with my index finger to make it all smooth and even.
 
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Discussion starter · #102 ·
UPDATE 9-12-16 - 2

Ok hu vw, have you had your cigarette yet? I'm going ahead with this thing.


Have you ever wondered what's under that big aluminum cover under the intake manifold that one of the PCV hoses hook up to?
Well, there's one of these. This is the tubing that supplies oil to the piston skirt oil squirters.

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And there's 2 of these check valves.

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Oil squirter tubing and check valves installed.

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Head gasket ready for placement.

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Bank #1 ready to be bolted down and torqued. With all new bolts of course.

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Both heads on and torqued to first torque stage. 60Nm which equals 44ft lbs.

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Discussion starter · #103 ·
UPDATE 9-12-16 - 3

And now the bitchin starts.
What the #$ck is wrong with this @#cking picture?

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Yeah, that'd be my Polydrive head bolt tool with 3 of the *%cking teeth broke the ^%ck off.
This job I'm doing is *$cking CURSED!!!!! I am so @^cking pissed!

I had just got all the head bolts torqued down to the first stage of torqueing. 60Nm. I went to start doing the first 90 degree turn after the 60Nm torque value, and SNAP! :mad:
The 3 little pieces are now somewhere inside my brand new engine! :banghead:
Now the #1 bank has to come back off, remove the oil pan and go fishing for these little *%cking bastards.
So now it's backwards progress and the purchase of another head gasket set, head bolts, oil pan gasket, and Polydrive tool at the minimum.
I can't tell for sure, but I think one of the little pieces went inside the exhaust valve spring. If that's the case, then it's out with the exhaust cam and removal of that spring.
I cannot believe this happened! :banghead: :mad:
Back to the VW / Audi dealership tomorrow for a rush on parts. :mad:
 
One of those magnetic parts retriever wands might grab those little chunks. Take your time, use a bright penlight and you'll probably find them.

That whole "90 degree turn" business doesn't sit well with me, even though I understand that's the procedure. I once had an Audi 5000 CS turbo, which had broken exhaust studs. I had to pull the head so a specialist could remove the sheared off studs and replace the whole set with new ones. When it came time to torque that head, I did the first pass with the torque wrench, which felt pretty tight. But the book said turn each one 180 degrees more. I gave a breaker bar to my buddy, and just looked the other way!
 
On a brighter note, those bits are not likely to cause any damage.
Any pieces that find their way to the oil pan and are larger than the holes in the oil pickup won't do any harm,
smaller pieces could damage the oil pump but very unlikely, and couldn't damage anything else.
 
Discussion starter · #107 ·
That whole "90 degree turn" business doesn't sit well with me, even though I understand that's the procedure.

This would be the 4th set of heads that I have worked on in the last 2 years. And I got to tell you, I'm not really big on that whole torque to spec then 90 degrees and then another 90 degrees after that.
The 1.8t I did earlier this year I torqued to 110Nm = 81ft lbs. - DONE!


While I was torqueing the bolts on my engine I could definitely feel a difference between some of the bolts. Most bolts got up to the torque spec with less than 3/4 of a turn after being snugged. I had 2 bolts go about a turn and a quarter.


This next time around I'm going to just torque the bolts to 110Nm and call it a day.
Here is my logic. I've wrenched quite a few American engines and most every head bolt I've ever done is in the vicinity of 80 to 90ft lbs.
Even on my 428cu in FE Ford motor the torque spec is at 90ft lbs.
 
Discussion starter · #108 ·
I hear what you guys are saying about the pieces falling into the engine, but to let this go is just not right. If I miss anything, and one of these bits gets into the rotating assembly, that would send me over the edge. Yeah it's suck's big time, but I've got all this money invested into this and I'm not about to start cutting corners at this stage in the game. Plus after going back out to "look at things" last night, I'm really starting to think that at least one of the pieces slid down the oil drain hole in the head and then attached itself to the crankshaft and connecting rod assembly. With all that assembly grease down in there, that is a very probable scenario.
 
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Discussion starter · #109 ·
9-13-16

Just ordered everything I need (ECS Tuning) to replace all the parts that I'll be pulling off and having to toss.

I'll post up again when I find the bits of my Polydrive tool. :mad:
 
Actually the 90 degree turns method is the more reliable way to get the desired preload on the bolts. Don't ask me to prove it, but there are gobs of engineering discussions on it, and the masters of monster compressors, Ariel in Mt Vernon, OH will be happy to give you the background in their training classes.
Not to say that the 90 ft lbs isn't sufficient, just that the turns method will get you closest to what Helmut and Dieter speced out in Wolfsburg 20+ years ago.
 
Discussion starter · #112 ·
UPDATE 9-21-16

Been away the last 2 days.

Alrighty, here we go.
Last Friday night the 16th, I spent all night tearing down the engine piece by piece try to find the broken bits of my Polydrive tool. And then again back at it Saturday the 16th at 5am.

After removing the heads and stripping the heads bare I proceeded by removing every single part, stripping the motor down to the bare block. When I removed the lower oil pan I found (1) of the pieces of the Polydrive tool. Cool, two more to go. Not so fast bub.
Long story short... I never did find the other two pieces. But with washing and rinsing every single part internal to the engine, I'm certain the tiny bits went down the wash tank drain.
So back to re-assembly. As of Monday night the 19th, this is where I'm at.

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So I need to put on a few more brackets, the starter, alternator, A/C, exhaust and a few other items, it'll be ready to FINALLY drop back into the car.

My promise date to my wife of her birthday (Sept 17th) has come and gone, so now I'm shooting for this weekend to fire it up for the first time after the rebuild. The heat is on :nervous:
 
Discussion starter · #116 ·
It looks like it's been... washed. It's beautiful. Good work, and good luck, and good courage.
That's what blasting it with baking soda will net you. Looks almost brand new.
 
Discussion starter · #117 ·
Andreas,

Where did you get this Polydrive tool/bit from? VW head bolts are grade 10.1 or some such high-strength number last I checked.
My original Polydrive tool I bought from some place on flea-bay back in 2006 when I first got my 98 Passat and shortly after I became a member here.
That was before I knew where to source any of the parts or tools.
I replaced it with a Schwaben Polydrive. Much better quality and fit. New one purchased from ECS Tuning.
However, the old one had been used on like 6 pairs of v6 heads and (1) 1.8t head since I bought it.
 
That's what blasting it with baking soda will net you. Looks almost brand new.
What a pleasure it is to see a motor/trans so sanitary as that- shows real careful workmanship. We've all seen tech articals on for instance a timing belt job, and the author hasn't cleaned one bit of grime from the engine.
 
Discussion starter · #120 ·
The first pictures of the engine and trans together are at slightly different angles, but you can really see the difference of then and now.

All I did was blast all the aluminum and pipes with baking soda. This isn't a show car, it's going to be my wife's daily driver, so a lot of the existing hardware was re-used. There is still some rust and corrosion on some of the components, but all in all it looks much better than it did when I started.

And again in the 'after' picture, that is not the original motor from the car. The original motor was kicked to the curb. The only thing I scavenged from that motor were the intake and exhaust valves. (you never know :whistle: )
The motor in the 'after' picture was the original motor from my '98 GLS daily driver. And that was pretty crusty as well!


Before

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After

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Original engine to my '98 GLS before cleaning and machining

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Engine after cleaning and machining - now getting swapped into the '03 GLX

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