Is he quoting for parts and labor?

There is no such thing as average cost for parts because it all depends on their brand and quality.
You can almost be sure your mechanic won't use good quality parts. He would buy the cheapest to keep the most money in his pocket. So a better tactic is to ask him only the labor cost and buy good quality parts yourself and provide him.

Decent quality rotor and pads for front and rear you can get online around $250-$350. Axles are different a bit. Low quality ones you can get from AutoZone as low as $80 but better quality ones are around $200+.

 

I changed them all a few years back at the dealership

Did he say why it needs all four rotors, especially since they are just a few years old? One thing about using an independent mechanic, or the dealership's technician, is that the brake rotors are almost always replaced or re-surfaced on a lathe. From a suitability-for-use standpoint, that's often not necessary. My friend had an independent auto repair shop, and always replaced or surfaced the rotors, because that's what customers expected. He never did that on his own cars unless absolutely necessary. If the rotors are smooth and not warped (making a pulsating feeling when braking), and not worn out, then a new set of pads takes care of them. What is your evidence that they need to be serviced?

Likewise, is his $275 charge for axles to service the outer Constant Velocity joints, or install new axles? If you have original VW axles, I would be reluctant to have aftermarkets installed, which can cause vibrations when idling in Drive.

 

the brake rotors are almost always replaced or re-surfaced on a lathe.

Which means they get thinner and thus get warped faster due to the heat.

 

That was why he didn't do that on his cars (or mine for that matter). Hi theory was that when the wearing surfaces are cut away on a used rotor, the stresses in the cast Iron then cause small but significant changes to the shape (warping).

 

Thank you everyone for all the helpful information. I just came back from my mechanic's shop and he said, my front brake are fine and still have quiet bit on them, but the rear brake and rotors should be replaced and the cost is $375. I asked him if we could just replace the pads and he checked the rotors and said it is best that pads and rotors are replaced, b/c rotors are worn out.

He also test drive my car and did a visual inspection of the axle, CV Joist area on both side and said the left/driver side is fine, but the right side has a torn CV Joist rubber cover and leaking, hence the very minor clicking sound when making turns.

He will replace the rear brake next Wednesday and also the CV Joist rubber cover and the cost for that is $175.

Years ago, when I replaced my front and rear brakes at the dealership it came to about $1275. So, I think his cost is reasonable. Not sure about the cost of CV Joist rubber cover replacement for $175, does that sound reasonable?

Thank you again for your help.

 

at the dealership

That's why they call it "Stealership"

Not sure about the cost of CV Joist rubber cover replacement for $175, does that sound reasonable?

That is reasonable to change the CV boot. I paid way more than that. So go for it.

 

That $175 is probably normal for a shop to do it. Incidentally, the part is a CV Joint, due to it being able to swivel and still apply power to the front wheels whether turning or driving straight ahead. The "CV" stands for Constant Velocity, because the driveshaft and wheel always rotate the same speed. Earlier front wheel drive vehicles used U-Joints, which will cause a fluctuating speed between the axle and wheel, worsening as the steering angle increases. The CV design doesn't do that, the speeds always match (therefore 'Constant').

 

The "CV" stands for Constant Velocity

I'm glad it doesn't stand for Corona Virus

 

Thank you Emry & ylwagon. Made appnt. for next Wednesday to replace rear brake pads & rotors and the CV boot. My VW mechanic is very good and reasonable, but I greatly appreciate you guys helping me to better understand the issue, in summary, you guys give me peace of mind

 

about 370.00 to have a mechanic hook a scan tool to pull codes and install a regulator in window. -he had wanted as a total 900.00 plus to change an axle and pass inspection. payed the 370. 00 and told him to fail it. bought it home purchased an axle and watched a few you tubes and did it myself. Now i'm doing all the tune up myself and bringing it back to great condition. how ever it had been well taken care of by the previous owner. there were some pcv issues that had not been changed because the original clamps were still on.new hoses are being put in. and some I just cleaned out really well the prices for some of this stuff is ungodly. but learn to do it your self . it feels good and more cash in your pocket.

 

Good for you and this is excellent!

 

hell I don't know