Let me see if I can help you out.

M ass

A ir

F low

Okay now for what it does:

The mass air flow sensor measure the amount or velocity of the air coming into the engine and send it to the ECU it is simply a data gathering device that help the ECU to calculate the appropriate amount of fuel for the mixture depending on rpms.

This actually a updated version of a larger sensor called an air flow meter.

The air flow meter uses a vane attached to spring the amount of air passing through would the flap at varying positions to tell the ECU how much air is passing.

The air flow meter is pretty restrictive and was replaced by the MAF which does not have any moving parts and is way less restrictive to the flow of air since it places a small probe into the stream of incoming.

 

MAF stands for Mass Air Flow. It measures the flow of airto calculate how much fuel to dump.

 

how do u remove this post ?

 

got the HKS air intake, is this a bad air intake? is the oem air boow better wiith a k&n filter ? whats is a better air intake for a 1999 vw passat V6 30v with 42,000 miles..
i am going and im going to replace my fuel injectors to the ones that have 4 holes in it ... also seen people talking about bad vacuum hoels?


so what does MAF have to do with air intake, vacum hoes, fuel injectors? and will it help if i replace all of them?

 

The MAF is a thorn in my side.

 

The MAF is a thorn in my side.

WHY?

 

becuase they cost like 200-300 bucks

 

becuase they cost like 200-300 bucks

holy shit and I just cleaned mine with simple green and then rinsed with hot water then again cleand it with K&N filter cleaner i made syr not to get water in the place where you plug it in, then after i let it dry i put it back in my car. @#$% the damn check engen lite came on and stayed on I went up and down the street stoprd turned the car off then restarted it and it was still on so i went back home. I then went home turned the car off then un plugged the MAF look in the car NO check engen lite was on? so i plugged it back in with car running then turned it back of then on again and no check engen lite :lol: but not sure how long this will last ? if the MAF is bad how will i know??

 

get the cel code read

 

becuase they cost like 200-300 bucks

holy shit and I just cleaned mine with simple green and then rinsed with hot water then again cleand it with K&N filter cleaner i made syr not to get water in the place where you plug it in, then after i let it dry i put it back in my car. @#$% the damn check engen lite came on and stayed on I went up and down the street stoprd turned the car off then restarted it and it was still on so i went back home. I then went home turned the car off then un plugged the MAF look in the car NO check engen lite was on? so i plugged it back in with car running then turned it back of then on again and no check engen lite :lol: but not sure how long this will last ? if the MAF is bad how will i know??

Dude, you need to stop torturing your poor car! :crazy:

You are dealing with extremely sensitive, finely calibrated, electrical components...not the carb on a 65 Chevy. You may have fried your MAF or you just didn't let it dry out enough before putting it back in. If it is bad the CEL will come back. Like crash893 said, you need to get the code pulled to find out what it was.

 

becuase they cost like 200-300 bucks

holy shit and I just cleaned mine with simple green and then rinsed with hot water then again cleand it with K&N filter cleaner i made syr not to get water in the place where you plug it in, then after i let it dry i put it back in my car. @#$% the damn check engen lite came on and stayed on I went up and down the street stoprd turned the car off then restarted it and it was still on so i went back home. I then went home turned the car off then un plugged the MAF look in the car NO check engen lite was on? so i plugged it back in with car running then turned it back of then on again and no check engen lite :lol: but not sure how long this will last ? if the MAF is bad how will i know??

Dude, you need to stop torturing your poor car! :crazy:

You are dealing with extremely sensitive, finely calibrated, electrical components...not the carb on a 65 Chevy. You may have fried your MAF or you just didn't let it dry out enough before putting it back in. If it is bad the CEL will come back. Like crash893 said, you need to get the code pulled to find out what it was.

i need to buy a new passat that i can mod more easy then the one i got and with a new one i can start from scratch

 

AK - your MAF is toast. sorry. Any of those things would have killed it (simple green, water, filter cleaner). All three is akin to jumping up and down on its grave.

Next time use a no-residue electronics cleaner, and handle everything near the MAF while wearing latex/nitrile exam gloves. I'm not kidding.

Leave the MAF unplugged until you get a new one put in. The engine uses one of the 02 sensors' data to regulate fuel trim when the MAF is unplugged. The 02 sensor is not as good for this sort of thing - so don't think of it as a permanent solution. Get a new MAF sensor.

Sorry.

 

AK - your MAF is toast. sorry. Any of those things would have killed it (simple green, water, filter cleaner). All three is akin to jumping up and down on its grave.

Next time use a no-residue electronics cleaner, and handle everything near the MAF while wearing latex/nitrile exam gloves. I'm not kidding.

Leave the MAF unplugged until you get a new one put in. The engine uses one of the 02 sensors' data to regulate fuel trim when the MAF is unplugged. The 02 sensor is not as good for this sort of thing - so don't think of it as a permanent solution. Get a new MAF sensor.

Sorry.

my MAF is plugged in and there is no engen lite on, if the MAF was Toast wouldnt the engen lite come back on ??? and yes that was dumb what i did :crazy:

 

if you have a vag, check the error code, and post it here. it'll probably say something like MAFs too low, or MAFs out of range, or something like that if the sensor is damaged.

 

how do u remove this post ?

You don't. You realize that you asked a question that has come up before, then you go here:
http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71590&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=120

to start understanding what a lot of terms you hear actually mean. There is also a DTC decoder to let you know what the VAG tool or Autozone's "P" codes are telling you.

Oh, and don't just dunk electronics parts in ANY cleaner that does not say it is designed just for electronics. There are some ways to clean parts w/o a dedicated cleaner (water, etc.), but for those who do not know the process, it is bad ju-ju.

Mark

 

my MAF is plugged in and there is no engen lite on, if the MAF was Toast wouldnt the engen lite come back on ??? and yes that was dumb what i did :crazy:

Not necessarily. The ECU is still using the 02 sensor data to regulate fuel trim. No CEL because, technically, it works -- however it's not very efficient at dialing in the correct fuel trim. (it's a reactive measurement, not proactive).

Hey we all do stuff like this... A few years ago I killed a $300 (Parts+Labor) clock spring trying to lube a steering wheel squeak. Live and learn.

 

my MAF is plugged in and there is no engen lite on, if the MAF was Toast wouldnt the engen lite come back on ??? and yes that was dumb what i did :crazy:

Not necessarily. The ECU is still using the 02 sensor data to regulate fuel trim. No CEL because, technically, it works -- however it's not very efficient at dialing in the correct fuel trim. (it's a reactive measurement, not proactive).

Hey we all do stuff like this... A few years ago I killed a $300 (Parts+Labor) clock spring trying to lube a steering wheel squeak. Live and learn.

so you thnk its dead ? whats the way i can find out for sure ? VAG ?? and can i vag with my new waist of money GIAC chip. will it reprogram it not that it matters...

 

The ECU uses the MAF to set the primary fuel air ratio based on the amount of air going into the engine, it then uses the exhaust sensors to fine tune that ratio, based on combustion efficiency, which is the true measure of how well the car is running. Even if the ratios are right and the car running OK, a dead or malfunctioning MAF will trigger the MIL.

The fact that it came on and went out leads me to believe that the MAF could have still had a little condensation inside the housing that caused it to heat up slowly or to the wrong temp, and the ECU caught that.

Now that it is dry and working again, the ECU assumes the problem is OK and turned the light off. There will still be a code, however. We see this sort of ECU/MIL behaviour all the time with broken vacuum hoses. While it is leaking, the light is on, fix the hose, the system will see the correct flow again and the MIL is turned off. Again, there will be a code logged, but the MIL is off.

The VAG will not reprogram the GAIC chip. All you are doing is asking the program to reflect any codes that might be stored.

HTH,
Mark

 

ok what is MIL now?
lol any place one this site i can goto to see what MIL, VAG, MAF , ttt, CEL stuff like that stand for? i see all these short names and dont know what they stand for and im sure theres alot of us out there ohh and also what does it mean to have like 1st gear 2nd gear and so on by a persons name i know this went off the subject :crazy:

:bow: :b5:

 

how do u remove this post ?

You don't. You realize that you asked a question that has come up before, then you go here:
http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71590&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=120

Mark

 

MAF is either of a vane type or 'hot wire' type, vane type is more restrictive than hot wire..


Just out of curiosity, which does the passat use?

Oh and the MAF can be VERY helpful for most vehicles if you plan to mod it.., as you modify the vehicle.. the MAF allows the computer to better compensate for the air/fuel mixture than the MAP ever could..

 

It's been hot wire for many years now. Buick actually perfected it in the 80's, Bosch made it popular.

 

a handful of the 'mazda' Fords up to 98 or so still used the vane type sensor..

 

re:

So.. is it safe to assume that the MAF is one of the main factors of power loss problems?? when reving the engine (higher rpm) but getting less than normal power/thrust ?

Abe