[axenstar]

Steve,
Yes, the ABS light beeps and comes on. Since only the BRAKE light is on, do you think I should look for the problem in the brake system? Does that mean the ABS is OK but not the brakes, which in turn makes ABS and cruise control not functional?

Also, i was curious and I did the following measures on highway at about 2500 rpm. I know this is not related to the brakes but may tell about the engine.

85.5°C Coolant Temperature
2.3 % O2 Sensor Control
28.40 g/s Air Mass Flow
7.81 ms Fuel Injector Average Time

The 00526 brake light code in the transmission computer is probably from not hitting the brake pedal before running the scan.
The 00953 is likely connected to the 00930 code. Probably bad solder connection(s) in the locking module in the rear left door.

So no clues in the scan about the ABS problem. That doesn't mean something in that system isn't failed. It just means the system doesn't detect it. When you scan the ABS, does the cluster beep three times and the ABS light come on? Check to see what values you can see in the Measuring Blocks. See if something looks wrong. See if there are any test that can be run.

 

[Steve in Chicago]

The BRAKE light is on or flashing?

Since this light came on directly after the brake fluid flush, they may be related. How does the pedal feel?

How do we know if you're getting ABS function or not? Try panic stopping on ice or gravel to see how the system responds.

 

[axenstar]

Yes, the BRAKE light is flashing. Today I noticed when I brake hard the car shudders a bit.

The BRAKE light is on or flashing?

Since this light came on directly after the brake fluid flush, they may be related. How does the pedal feel?

How do we know if you're getting ABS function or not? Try panic stopping on ice or gravel to see how the system responds.

 

[axenstar]

UPDATE: I was reading about the reasons for flashing BRAKE light. One of them was the fluid level. So, I checked it and it was OK. I removed the strainer from the reservoir and pushed down the buoy (or whatever it is called). Strangely the light gone. I put the strainer back and now there is no light on dashboard whatsoever. (I mean the warning lights Very nice feeling after driving the car for three years and 75k miles with constant ABS and BRAKE lights on.
I can feel the brake response has improved greatly. So questions:

1-) How can I figure out if the ABS is really working? I mean the light is gone now but does that mean the ABS is functional?
2-) I still don't have the cruise control. The hoses hold vacuum in the system. What else could be the reason for non-functional cruise control?

P.S: Vag com yields no error codes whatsoever. The brake switch error in the transmission section disappears when I scan it with brake pedal depressed.

 

[sirwired]

To find out if the ABS is flashing, get on a straight, dry, and empty road, go up to a decent speed (40 or so will be fine) and slam on the brake pedal. If your wheels lock and stay there, you have no ABS. If you hear/feel kind of a grinding sound and your wheels don't stay locked, the ABS works.

(The B5 ABS is a lot more subtle than my old Corolla... you thought the brakes were going to shatter into pieces when that activated!)

 

[Tomvw]

For information on checking the cruise control, see the link and amendments in Post #8.

I removed the strainer from the reservoir and pushed down the buoy (or whatever it is called). Strangely the light gone.

You should make sure the buoy/float moves freely and is not sticking.

 

[VAGguy]

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/4...wagen-passat-b5-discussion/321156-brake-fault-3-beeps-stop-i-have-solution.html

I knew I read this somewhere a few years back.......not all too uncommon. I know where to start if mine crops up again.

 

[axenstar]

Wow! In this post, I found every problem I have had. The things strangely changed when I flushed the brake system with Valvoline DOT4 synthetic, which is clear as opposed to the OEM which is green. Should I go with the OEM fluid? I may easily flush the system again. Once again, after I played with the float thing, the blinking BRAKE light is gone. Apperently, it was out of joint or something.

I will try the ABS braking test on a safe surface. But, one thing I feel has changed after the BRAKE light was gone is when I hit the brake, I can feel it is more responsive.

The next question now is the cruise control. It is still not working.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/4...wagen-passat-b5-discussion/321156-brake-fault-3-beeps-stop-i-have-solution.html

I knew I read this somewhere a few years back.......not all too uncommon. I know where to start if mine crops up again.

 

[axenstar]

I PMed this to Scott and wanted to post here as well. I hope I can get some feedback.

It looks like there are couple of points of attention for the cruise control. On my car ABS module works. No ABS light nor is there any VCDS codes. Speed sensors work fine per VCDS measure. Brake light switch works fine. The actuator rod is connected to the diaphragm. Is the diaphragm supposed to remain depressed when I push it down or should it go back to its normal position?

How can I check if the stalk is functioning? The turn signal and everything else work fine.

What is it behind the globe box that needs checking? How can I check it?

Is there a CRUISE light on 98' 1.8t dashboard that indicates the cruise is engaged?

Thank you very much for your time.
Ali

 

[Steve in Chicago]

How can I check if the stalk is functioning? The turn signal and everything else work fine.

What is it behind the globe box that needs checking? How can I check it?

For information on checking the cruise control, see the link and amendments in Post #8.

No cruise light on the dash. (technically, there is one but it's not used)

 

[axenstar]

OK. Finally, I have ABS brakes. It feels very different and cool to be able to use the ABS. Now, I am trying to get the cruise control work as well. I replaced the thing behind the glove box, replaced the stalk, still no cruise. I am going to replace the actuator under the ABS module. I believe that is the only thing left in order to solve the cruise problem, is not it?

 

[gigi123]

I know a few people have said the brake switch is OK, but if it's not, cruise won't work.
I am not sure on ur 98, but on newer cars you can check cruise control functionality with VCDS in Engine controller. I know yours is not "smart" and it might not report all switches to the engine controller, but try and see.

 

[Steve in Chicago]

VCDS won't see any part of the AEB cruise control system. It's a standalone system not incorporated into the engine computer like on the DBW models.

The link and amendments in post #8 of this thread has the troubleshooting guide you need to diagnose this. So far you're throwing parts at it. Are these new (known good) parts or wreckers yard (unknown condition) parts? The thing you replaced behind the glove box is the control module for this system. They go bad frequently (just like the ABS modules do). So getting one from a wreckers yard is really a gamble. It's a 50/50 chance that it's good or failed.

The thing under the ABS module is the vacuum pump that actuates the diaphragm that moves the throttle. The troubleshooting guide shows how to test this in place.

The cruise control switches on the brake and clutch pedals have both electrical and vacuum run through them. Both of those functions of those switches need to work in order for the system to work. The electrical can be tested with a meter. The vacuum retention can be tested with some vacuum line. Run the line to the switch and apply vacuum to the other end with your mouth. Actuate the pedal. The switch should hold vacuum with the pedal at rest and vent vacuum when you press on the pedal.

 

[Tomvw]

I have suggested the brake switch is most likely OK, and it almost certainly is.
But there are also Cruise Control switches on the brake and clutch pedals, and also vacuum switches.
As Steve has suggested a couple of times, check these and the rest of the CC system using the info in post #8.

Don't keep throwing parts at it, if you post results of your tests, we can help guide you through the diagnosis and repair.

 

[axenstar]

Troubleshoot vacuum pump, vac lines, and solenoid operation
I made 3 jumpers out of paperclips, bent in a U shape.
Jumper pins 8 and 7, 12 and 5, and 6 and 5 all at the same time (do 6 and 5 last, you will want to be able to disconnect it easily).

OK. I am mechanically inclined but not electronically. What does a jumper mean and what do 8-7, 12-5 and 6-5 refer to?

 

[Steve in Chicago]

A jumper is a way to connect two points of a circuit together. He used paperclips that he bent into a U shape so he could plug the ends into the female contacts and "jump" from one to the other.

The numbers are the positions on the connector. An electrical connector with several contacts will have the contacts (or pins) numbered. Sometimes the numbers are really small and hard to see. Sometimes they only number the first and last pin in a row and you have to count yourself to determine the pins in between.

These are the numbers of the pins on the module. The corresponding sockets on the harness connector use the same numbers. In other words, pin 1 on the module connects to socket 1 on the connector. Pins 2 and 3 are blanks.

 

[axenstar]

Awesome. I will do so very soon and post the updates.

A jumper is a way to connect two points of a circuit together. He used paperclips that he bent into a U shape so he could plug the ends into the female contacts and "jump" from one to the other.

The numbers are the positions on the connector. An electrical connector with several contacts will have the contacts (or pins) numbered. Sometimes the numbers are really small and hard to see. Sometimes they only number the first and last pin in a row and you have to count yourself to determine the pins in between.

These are the numbers of the pins on the module. The corresponding sockets on the harness connector use the same numbers. In other words, pin 1 on the module connects to socket 1 on the connector. Pins 2 and 3 are blanks.

 

[Tomvw]

Have another look at post #8, I have added some extra info but have not changed anything.

 

[axenstar]

Knowledge is awesome! Learning is awesome! You guys are awesome!

So,I did the test. Initially all readings came zero. When I went back to read the instructions again, I noticed what Tom wrote and I redid the test with the gear on D.

All, including the stalk functionality and actuator, passed. Except, when I did "Probes on 11 and 5", it came "zero". No reading. It is supposed to test the clutch and brake switch. My car is automatic. So, is the brake switch the problem?

P.S: Brake lights work fine.

 

[Tomvw]

All, including the stalk functionality and actuator, passed. Except, when I did "Probes on 11 and 5", it came "zero". No reading. It is supposed to test the clutch and brake switch. My car is automatic. So, is the brake switch the problem?

P.S: Brake lights work fine.

The fact that the brake lights are working, proves the brake light switch is working.

Did you press the brake pedal while checking ?
It should be 0V not pressed, and 12V pressed.

There is another switch on the brake pedal for the Cruise Control, that could be the problem.
Disconnect it and do the test again. (DO NOT use CC with it disconnected)
This test must be done with everything else connected and the Module grounded.

Read all the instructions in post #8 carefully.