you can call these guys, very helpful.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Passat/EngineElectrical/192
your car is a vin split and has a few motors in it.
this may help you...
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289191

I am not a 1.8 guy, this is the best I can do until someone else lets you know.

 

I already checked that thread last week, that's why I went to amazon to check for those models and that's what amazon said. Now, I don't know if my car is chipped, how do you know that??? I know my car has the wrong spark plugs, we changed them 2 years ago in Germany and a few days later the engine light came on (took the car several times to get it fixed, they couldnt fix it they dont know what it is, I'm sure it's the spark plugs...)thanks though

 

^^ Agreed. There are so many great parts sites--with phone numbers, emails, and knowledgeable staff--that it pays to frequent them instead of Amazon for car stuff (I go to AMZN for almost everything. Even my wedding ring!)

Almost everything you need can be accomplished by putting in your model and year :thumbup:

(I'm particularly fond of getcoolparts.com -- they have great service AND very low prices...many places are either/or)

 

BKR7E is copper plug with 1 range colder plug

BKR7E-11 is above but pre-gapped at 0.044"

BKR6E is the one you want which has the stock temp range and 6E can be used on chipped or stock motor.

It is also a copper plug so it will not last as long as platinum/iridium plugs but it should last you 10-15k miles.

 

so the last one you said, is it the same than this NGK G-Power Platinum Spark Plugs BKR6EGP # 7092???????

 

These (BKR6E / 6962) are actually a buck apiece or more cheaper at NAPA; also, there is no shipping charge. Gap should be 0.032" for a stock engine.

 

what website?????

 

I believe neither the platinum nor iridium plugs are recommended for the 1.8T

 

1.8T comes with platinum from factory. They are fine even with chipped engine.

 

Just to add confusion I thought the correct plug for '01 is NGK PFR6Q

 

I believe those are the ones that the car has right now and they are the ones creating problems since the first day...i hate cars...

 

they need to be replaced, but since we got those the car has the engine light on and they don't know what it is...

 

The OEM NGK PFR6Q plugs should have no problem, unless someone dropped them, mis-gapped them, or they are more than 50k miles old.

What codes are you getting? Misfire codes should indicate which cylinder, or maybe your code doesn't relate to the plugs at all?

How is it running? If okay, maybe something unrelated got disconnected when the plugs were replaced, and that is where the code come from

 

Coils usually lasts very long time but VW has been recalling coil issues for awhile now though. So you do not have to change it every time you change plugs.

What did you mean by failing? Is spark plugs keep failing or there's something wrong with the cylinder?

 

I really don't know as I said my knowledge in cars is minimum...long story with this car...bought in Germany from another military service member(and is american specs), running great, a month later husband decides to replace spark plugs...a few days later engine light comes on, then all of a sudden while driving car will shut off!!,took it to the germans to fix it, apparently it was a sensor, they replaced it...but engine light came back on again...took it back, they couldnt find anything wrong...came back to the states 2 years ago, took it over here(not to the dealership)...they thought they fixed it,light came back on next day,took it back, same thing. Took it this winter to the dealership to fix all the recalls...engine light still there...then a mechanic comes and tells me oh i know how to fix that(but did not tell me what it was and did not have money to fix anything that was not free haha),so...I'm sticking to the spark plugs first, and I will check the coles and stuff...i would take them out myself to see if there could be oil or something but I don't know how to do that!!!

 

Well if you ever did want to learn how to do some basic maintenance on your own car, changing spark plugs is an easy way to start. Let us know and we can give you step by step instructions.

 

Sure!!!!Thanks!!
Also, if anybody can help me find the thread that tells you how to clean the blinker...I saw it the other day and now I can't find it!!!

 

Do you own or have access to any tools?

You will need a ratchet, extension for ratchet , a spark plug socket, a cheap spark plug gapper and some anti-seize compound. Also a torque wrench if available.

 

I bet I do, just need to google all that to see what they look like haha(told you I have no idea)

 

Here is a how-to link. The Audi A4 is the same as the Passat, at least for this.

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/copperplugs.html

Don't feel totally ignorant. I'd always changed my own plugs, points (when cars had them), brake pads, etc. When it came time for the 40k maintenance on my Passat, I took off the plastic cover, saw coil packs and had no idea what I was looking at. I punted, and had a mechanic do it. Now, I know it is no big deal, just remove the connectors and pull them off of the plug.

-----> How is the car running? If you have a bad coil pack, you will probably find it too rough to drive, and the CEL light will be blinking, meaning that you should stop the engine immediately.

If you add your location to your profile, you might even find someone happy to lend a hand. Someone with a VagCom scanner preferably, but a generic code scanner will help find most problems.

 

I'm pretty sure I have those tools but the gap thing, do I need it?. Now, looking at the pictures and considering I've seen a spark plug once in my life...what part goes inside first, the thin one weird looking?? I know myself and will put them upside down for sure haha(it is kind of embarrassing after all I don't even know that...)
Forgot to mention, that when we had the last computer check and said that about the 3 cylinders, it was after we had to stop the car because the oil light came on and said to stop the car immediately which I found odd, I had the oil change a few days before (not by me, I know how to do it but the filter in this car is hard to reach for me)

 

Forgot to mention, that when we had the last computer check and said that about the 3 cylinders, it was after we had to stop the car because the oil light came on and said to stop the car immediately which I found odd, I had the oil change a few days before (not by me, I know how to do it but the filter in this car is hard to reach for me)

Uh, oh. What was the outcome of the oil pressure issue? Did it get diagnosed/resolved? Oil warnings and the STOP message must be taken very, very, seriously on the 1.8T - it's usually a harbinger of disaster.

 

yours might be in the covered range of replacements or are new enough. Check the part number on one.

 

the part number is (i think) 01830099 or is it 10vwz13...

 

should be 06A 905 115 D or something like it. "D" is the latest version iirc.

 

is that written only on the coil or somewhere else????I can't unplug the wire harness from the coilpack...went to the website on how to do it, but that part does not say how to do it, and what I tried felt like I was going to break
it...

 

take a flat blade screwdriver and insert it into the clip on the harness plug from the top. Gently twist the screwdriver. Should should hear a click, maybe not. push in on the plug while *gently* twisting the screwdriver, wiggle the connecter off of the coil pack.

iirc the part number is covered by the plug

 

I miss-typed. I meant to say it might NOT be covered, but it looks as though you should be. I had the "D" I think and they replaced mine in my 04 passat and A4.

Do not have them diagnose anything until you have that recall done. My experience with misfiring from bad coils is an instant and permanent failure. Generally, you do not get a misfire and then have it go away with a bad coil.

 

I am so tired of this car already, you can't imagine. I did mention I have a permanent check engine light, which appeared after we changed the spark plugs that one time and well you can read up the story. Also when I start the car after the speed passes 40mph(does not matter how long, I could be driving at 20,30 for 5 minutes and not come up, is when i reach 40), emissions work shop thing comes on, and I took the car 2 times in the shop cause of it, they have never been able to fix that...is it all related to the coils? can I just throw the car to the trash...??

 

just managed to talk to my husband(he is training so...),anyway he said that one of the things the computer check said last week was a MISFIRE yay free coils for me(i hope)

 

FYI, don't be surprised if the dealer opts out of replacing your ends-in-R coil packs.

I say this because I had three or four die before getting the recall notice and had already replaced the earlier versions with R's.

When I took the car (a 2004) in to my local dealer, I was informed after an hour wait that they were all "fine" although I believe -D is the now current version.

 

ok, I am noting down everything, I can't find the paper with the codes, I will try to stop by somewhere and have it run again...

 

P1517 help

I know this isn't in regard to your spark plugs..but i'm a new user to passat world, so i can't post threads yet...but i hope someone can start me a new thread with my problem...
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It all started a month ago when the engine would not fully crank over...(I'm a female so my terminology is not 100%) so I took it to Pepboys for a free battery test...it was "draining from somewhere" but when taken out the battery was 100% good, so then I took the car to autozone for a free alternator test...and when the car was turned on, it was fine...then I put the car up to 2000rmps it was fine, then the autozone guy said to let go of the gas, so I did...and the car DIED! I waited 20 min. and then the car was able to crank on...so I installed a alternator...stupid me...I took out the old alternator and didn't go get it checked out of the car, just took off the pulley and put it on the new alternator...thought that everything was dandy...then the other day the car didn't want to fully turn on, but on the second try it did...THEN TODAY I WAS DRIVING TO SCHOOL AND THE CAR DIED WHILE DRIVING...SCARIEST THING EVER!!! PULLED TO THE SHOULDER AND LET THE CAR REST FOR SEVERAL MIN. WHEN I TURNED ON THE CAR...CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON...SO I TOOK IT TO PEPBOYS FOR A FREE SCAN.....AND THE CODE P1517 MAIN RELAY CAME ON....I BOUGHT A MULTIMETER AND I HAVE A HAYNES MANUAL...AND I AM LOOKING A THE ELECTRICAL CHASIS CHAPTER FOR MY CAR (2000 VW PASSAT 1.8 TURBO, ATW ENGINE) AND HAVE NO CLUE WHAT TO DO NEXT OR HOW TO USE THE STUPID MULTIMETER...ANY AND ALL HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! THANK YOU!!!

 

I know this isn't in regard to your spark plugs..but i'm a new user to passat world, so i can't post threads yet...but i hope someone can start me a new thread with my problem...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It all started a month ago when the engine would not fully crank over...(I'm a female so my terminology is not 100%) so I took it to Pepboys for a free battery test...it was "draining from somewhere" but when taken out the battery was 100% good, so then I took the car to autozone for a free alternator test...and when the car was turned on, it was fine...then I put the car up to 2000rmps it was fine, then the autozone guy said to let go of the gas, so I did...and the car DIED! I waited 20 min. and then the car was able to crank on...so I installed a alternator...stupid me...I took out the old alternator and didn't go get it checked out of the car, just took off the pulley and put it on the new alternator...thought that everything was dandy...then the other day the car didn't want to fully turn on, but on the second try it did...THEN TODAY I WAS DRIVING TO SCHOOL AND THE CAR DIED WHILE DRIVING...SCARIEST THING EVER!!! PULLED TO THE SHOULDER AND LET THE CAR REST FOR SEVERAL MIN. WHEN I TURNED ON THE CAR...CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON...SO I TOOK IT TO PEPBOYS FOR A FREE SCAN.....AND THE CODE P1517 MAIN RELAY CAME ON....I BOUGHT A MULTIMETER AND I HAVE A HAYNES MANUAL...AND I AM LOOKING A THE ELECTRICAL CHASIS CHAPTER FOR MY CAR (2000 VW PASSAT 1.8 TURBO, ATW ENGINE) AND HAVE NO CLUE WHAT TO DO NEXT OR HOW TO USE THE STUPID MULTIMETER...ANY AND ALL HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! THANK YOU!!!

that happened to me back in Germany, it was a sensor, they replaced it and it never died again

 

ohhh ok

black leather looks better, and my tires too, are you sure??lol

 

got the codes guys...
- P0171 system too lean- bank1 (cylinder number 1 denotes bank1). Explanation: low fuel pressure or volume. Probable cause: faulty HO2S(heated oxygen sensor); large vacuum leak (OH NOOOOO); faulty MAF sensor
- P0300 cylinder misfire detected. Explanation: lean air/fuel ratio. Probable cause: ignition system misfire condition; fuel injector fault; engine mechanical condition
- P0301: cylinder 1 misfire condition. Explanation: vacuum leak on engine. Probable cause: ignition system fault; fuel injector fault; engine mechanical condition
- P0302: cylinder 2 misfire condition. explanation and causes same than the one before
- P0303: cylinder 3 misfire condition. explanation and cause same than before

 

Wheee! We have a winner! That's the EXACT same set of codes - complete - that caused my last Emissions Workshop! The solution was the infamous PCV service, which included a new suction pump, a new PCV valve, and disassembling the whole system and cleaning it out with solvent and a bottle brush. Kinda nasty and tedious, but not actually hard. The parts are cheap but the dealer would hit you up for three hours labor. Your car may need slightly different components replaced.

Most of these cars need this done every four or five years.

(Aside) You have an early-model 2001, just before the mid-year revisions - nice. I like my beige leather better (it's cooler, for one thing) but I'll admit it's a bear to keep clean.

 

I'm going to bet that you have never replaced the vacuum hoses in your car, and have one or more leaks. These are cheap and easy to fix. The original Passat hoses, up until they changed material in (maybe in 2003? ) would get brittle and crack over time, typically by the time the car had 50k-70k miles on it, or 4-5 years. Replacement silicone hose is maybe $15 for the four hoses you have. I would expect a pro to take 45 minutes or less to replace all four.

There is also the "L" hose, which often splits. Part is maybe $5 to $20, depending on whether you get it online or local. Replacement time is maybe 10 minutes.

After you fix those and reset the error codes (or you can just drive it and the error code will go away in half a dozen drive cycles), if the code stays/comes back, it is most likely your MAF (mass air flow) sensor. (I had the hoses giving the codes, then by about 63k miles my MAF gave the same codes).

 

oh really???wow thanks for the information. Is that easy to replace, as in my husband, not me?haha. He is used to deal with car stuff more often and usually replaces all kind of stuff, from brake pads to timing belt(not in my passat though..)

 

They are the dealer afterall. sounds like a fair estimate. Diagnostic, labor remove/reinstall, then marked up part.

 

labor is like 200...my husband has changed that before I can get it done for free hahah, I am frustrated they made me wait for so long and then they did not even have the parts...they never have the parts when I take it there, how weird...I don't know if this is the busiest dealer in the country or what, they told me at 11.30 that I would have to wait till 3 or 4 just to have it diagnosed...did I say my appointment was at 9.30???

 

what sensor? was it a relay? and if so, what number?

 

She clearly said MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor - perhaps also called an air meter) and a "regulator" - whatever that is.

 

You can get the MAF for $110 to $150 from ecstuning.com, depending on which one you need for your model.

I'd still be replacing those vacuum lines, if it hasn't been done. If you do have a vacuum leak, you may be able to find it -- run the engine and listen around the hose ends, maybe you can literally "put your finger on it.

If you would chase down a local with a VAGCOM, you can do a redline run in 2nd gear while monitoring the MAF reading, which will likely show whether the MAF is going/gone bad. You are looking for a peak reading of about 120 grams/second.
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/fuel-trim.html When my MAF was going bad, the peak reading was about 60 g/sec; replaced under warranty.


What's a "regulator" in this context?

 

Guys...
that regulator is freaking 160 bucks!!!went to that website and there is no pic, but buying the parts here I save 10 dollars really but still. The MAF sensor yes is called air meter also($195..) part number vw037906461cx
the regulator part number is vw078133534c
I was thinking about replacing the vacuum lines since they need to be done, dealer did not say a word about those, they did find the famous leak, its the coolant tank, found a cheaper one anyway on that website also(labor for the coolant tank is 199...)