http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...Sockets-_-962238&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=962238&gclid=CLvTwoOMzboCFel_QgodOEkAuQ

Easy. Been there, done that (a bunch of times).

Don't heat the bolts, unnecessary. But do get new replacement bolts.

 

Wow. Great advice. I appreciate the speedy reply!

 

Before you do anything else spray some liquid wrench on the top end of the bolts up above where the pan meets the housing. Each one has the tip sticking out the other side and you can spray penetrating lubricant on the top and allow time for gravity to penetrate. Then you may be able to get it out without having to drill it free.

 

X2 on the Irwin bolt grips. Got me out of more than a few jams. I love having tools. What used to be an "oh fack!" situation is now just a calm reach for a bolt grip, a bolt extractor, a tap, a die, &c.

PB blaster is the best stuck fastener spray I have used. I hear good things about Kroil, but haven't tried it myself.

 

Zanzabar,

I assume you are familiar with the trans pan on this model, there is not a lot of clearance around the end of the bolt because of the way the pan is designed. If the socket itself is too wide you can't even get it on the bolt. I may have bought the wrong size Irwin Bolt-Grip Extractor set. There are a couple. Is the set in the link you sent the exact set I need for this project?

Thanks!

Mark

 

That's a good question and I can't actually remember if there is enough clearance. You may also want to try these: OEM/6 pcs. spiral flute screw extractor set (24374) | Bolt Extractor | AutoZone.com

Same idea, different strategy - these go into (typically stripped) bolt head instead of around the outside.

 

smitty,

Good advice. I didn't know that. I did spray WD-40 around the bolt head itself. I will spray the tips as well. I assume they are easy to get at?

Part of the problem now is because some of these screws are rusted and the ends are softened they rounded out slightly and the torx bit just spins around. There are six screws out of the 27 that are proving to be stubborn. I'm still optimistic but once again a 4 or 5 hour project turns into days because I haven't found a tool to get these out yet.

 

i think (so long ago) i managed to use small vice grips on the bolt heads to break free, then needle nose pliers to get loose.

 

I ended up drilling the heads off and buying new.

 

BTW, I called my dealership for a price on the replacement bolts and they are $2.70 a piece. There are 27 * 2.70 = $73!! I will only replace the bolts that are rusted badly and or mangled because I couldn't get them off the conventional way.

 

There were 6 on my transmission that need replacement because they were rusted. I learned the same as you and replaced only those six.

 

WHat is the size and thread count? I usually go to Ace or Lowe's and get bolts for something like that. Metric are more expensive but that is crazy

 

Well I finally got them all off. I was able to remove all but two which I had to drill out. I tried every kind of extraction tool possible, WD40, heat, prayers. They weren't budging. I did go to Ace and I found a comparable screw to replace those that broke or were rounded out. It has a smaller head but the plus is it is hex instead of torx, and they were 80 cents a piece!! As far as the two screws I drilled off, is there a tool I can use to make sure the remnants of the old screw are completly removed so I can thread a new screw in its place?

Thanks again for everyone's input.

Mark

 

You can drill a hole in the bolt, and use a stud extractor as shown in the link in post #9.
If the threads are damaged, you could run a tap through them.