I think at this juncture you're limited to deleting the Immobilizer from the gauge cluster.
Others can chime in but deleting the Immobilizer is the easiest cheapest option.

A couple years ago I was at the gas station with my wife in her 2002 GLX.
We stopped at the pump, filled up with gas, went to start the car, BAM the Immobilizer activated itself out of the blue just like that.

I sent the gauge cluster over to Matt Litke.
He deleted the Immobilizer. No issues since. He turned it around pretty darn quick too!
I was only a few days without the car.

Matt used to be a member here from the old days. He IS the man.
Log into Facebook

 

I think at this juncture you're limited to deleting the Immobilizer from the gauge cluster.
Others can chime in but deleting the Immobilizer is the easiest cheapest option.

A couple years ago I was at the gas station with my wife in her 2002 GLX.
We stopped at the pump, filled up with gas, went to start the car, BAM the Immobilizer activated itself out of the blue just like that.

I sent the gauge cluster over to Matt Litke.
He deleted the Immobilizer. No issues since. He turned it around pretty darn quick too!
I was only a few days without the car.

Matt used to be a member here from the old days. He IS the man.
Log into Facebook

I'm not sure I understand why removing the gauge cluster and getting it reworked disables the immobilizer? Would that also be a reason for the windows to stop operating? They were working fine before. As I mentioned back in an earlier thread in April I had this problem. I had all the same symptoms and I remember even trying the windows back then and they worked. All I did was remove one battery cable from the battery overnight and the following day the car started. But as I'm typing this to you I'm thinking to do it again but this time discharging any capacitors in the ECM by removing the negative lead from the battery and touching the positive lead to discharge. What do you think Andreas?

 

Immobilizer will not prevent the car from cranking. It will let it crank but it will not allow it to keep running for more than a second or two.

Something else is wrong, as evidenced by the other electrical issues. This may be a long road of tracking down wiring problems. You will need to scan the car for trouble codes and post them here to get any idea of where to narrow it down.

 

Immobilizer will not prevent the car from cranking. It will let it crank but it will not allow it to keep running for more than a second or two.

Something else is wrong, as evidenced by the other electrical issues. This will be a long road of tracking down wiring problems. You will need to scan the car for trouble codes and post them here to get any idea of where to narrow it down.

I didn't even catch that part.
I should pay better attention.

 

It sounds like a lot of minor electrical functions work poorly and the car does not start. What sound does it make when you turn the key? It could be as simple as a worn out or discharged battery. Have you tried a jump start? Have you had the battery tested or measured its voltage?

 

Voltage is 13.5 and tested with load tester and connections are good

 

Thank you everyone for trying to help solve this, I'm not sure if its called the park switch but you know when you select R or D with the shifter and there is no response to the starter, that's what's it like.

But what doesn't make any sense is when it is in the PARK position and ignition key is in the on position, none of the power window controls work! Either from the drivers door panel or individual panel controls, and the other issue when attempting to lock the doors from the inside using door panel controls it responds by locking then quickly unlocking as if one of the doors are open but are not.

I used my OBD2 scanner to see any codes and the only one that has been lingering was the O2 sensor telling me one sensor is not working which I've been living with for months. All it did was to activate engine light on. So I cleared that code and nothing changed.

So I'm thinking that if there was an issue with wiring on the leads from the driver side door to the door jamb that might trigger the door open not allowing the doors to lock then unlocking. But why won't the windows open or car starter engage?
I should mention that when turning the key to the start position I could see the headlights go dim and if I have the wipers is on they would stop in their position on the windshield while turning the key. All the symptoms of a failed starter or weak battery. As I said early battery is fully charged.

The other attempt I will make is to have someone in the car turn the key to start position and I will tap the stater motor with a hammer to see if it is the starter. That might give me some indication. But right now it's -18 Celsius so it will have to wait

 

That's my fault. I didn't catch that part of the post. I'm sorry for posting some misleading information.

 

After rereading your post in its entirety.

I had similar situation to this on one of my other Passat's.
For months the CCM was acting strangely. Wouldn't retain the seat or mirror memory positions and other weirdness.
Then one day I went somewhere, and then all of a sudden, the car would not start. (Completely different and unrelated issue to the Immobilizer issue stated above)

I ended up removing a relay and using a jumper wire in the fuse block to get the car to start.
To this day the seat and mirror memory don't work but it's not that important to me to have that.

I don't know if this the same type of issue you're having where the CCM is causing the car to not start.
I do remember struggling hard to find the cause and remedy for this issue.
I can't remember why the CCM causes this problem, it was explained (and posted) to me by another member here. Maybe I can find that post.

 

After rereading your post in its entirety.

I had similar situation to this on one of my other Passat's.
For months the CCM was acting strangely. Wouldn't retain the seat or mirror memory positions and other weirdness.
Then one day I went somewhere, and then all of a sudden, the car would not start. (Completely different and unrelated issue to the Immobilizer issue stated above)

I ended up removing a relay and using a jumper wire in the fuse block to get the car to start.
To this day the seat and mirror memory don't work but it's not that important to me to have that.

I don't know if this the same type of issue you're having where the CCM is causing the car to not start.
I do remember struggling hard to find the cause and remedy for this issue.
I can't remember why the CCM causes this problem, it was explained (and posted) to me by another member here. Maybe I can find that post.

Thanks Andreas that would be helpful. do you recall which fuse number you put the jumper to? Or which relay is for the starter?

 

One more thing I should mention which was very weird. When I was fooling around and trying to turn on different accessories including the radio the SAFE indicator came on the radio and 1000 appeared. but as I continued pressing different controls like the power seats and all, it disappeared and the radio came on as usual???

 

I'm really wondering if this isn't the CCM causing your problem. I say that because the majority things you mention and your problems, are directly controlled by the CCM.

When I went to inspect the CCM in my car there was zero evidence of any corrosion or any other defects that indicate an issue.
I think what happened is the CCM just plain failed.

 

Hah, even better. I found my original post about this whole issue I was having.

Read through the whole post and see if any of this applies to your condition.
The jumper wire might get you up and running.

https://www.passatworld.com/threads...om/threads/no-start-condition-battery-good.582301/?post_id=4572297#post-4572297

At the very least, you can try the jumper wire trick, it doesn't cost you anything except a couple minutes of your time.

 

IIRC, a dead CCM can cause the car to not start. Isn't this the dreaded 'fuse #14' problem?

OP, have you checked fuse 14?

 

Weather still a bit cold -9° today. should warm up tomorrow and I'll first test to see if power is going to the starter just in case that's the culprit. If not then to Andreas helpful link to bypass relay 53 in position #13 with a jumper wire


Yes, I pulled it out and reinserted it. that was my first thought

 

I'm revisiting my previous issue now that the weather has improved. Can anyone please provide information on which relay controls the power windows or share a link to the relay legends? I'd like to explore potential connections to my ongoing "no start" problem.

On a related note, I've had an unresolved issue with my cruise control and radio selection controls on the steering wheel, which stopped functioning. Although I was advised that the clock spring might be the culprit, I haven't replaced it yet. I'm unsure if this is relevant to my current problem, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

 

Hi Andreas,

I wanted to express my gratitude again for the relay suggestion. With the weather improving, I'm eager to tackle my no-start issue using your jumper wire method.

Before I dive into the dashboard, I'd like to confirm the pin positions and terminal jumpers to ensure I get it right. Would you be kind enough to verify the image I'm posting here?

Thank you in advance for your help.

 

PM sent.

Barring that's the right relay position number, yeah the jumper positions are correct.
I'd have to find my old post, I can't remember what the relay number was, 12 or 13, I'm not sure.

 

Good news! All problems fixed! It was the connecting harness inside the CCM.
About 7 pins were oxidized and green.
Once I cleaned them and used conductive grease on each pin everything started working!
Thanks for your help!