I wouldn't worry about the coil packs just yet. You should check the timing and see if the timing belt has slipped for some reason and bent the valves.

16395/P0011/000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)


Possible Symptoms
Power Loss

Possible Causes
Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
Fuel Pump Relay (J17) faulty
Mechanical Timing not correct, including Chain and/or Belt timing.

Possible Solutions
Check Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
Check Fuel Pump Relay (J17)
Check Mechanical Timing

 

This code likes to show up with the low oil pressure problem. It is the oil having bled out of the chain adjuster and allowing the intake cam to go beyond 10 degrees advanced due to increased chain slack

 

what's the engine code?

I agree with 2002GLXV6, forget the coilpacks for now. your first priority is making sure mechanical timing, i.e., the timing belt and camshafts, is correct.

Have you looked at the chain tensioner? you may need to remove it (or slightly lift it off and use a mirror) to inspect the oil screen underneath. if it's clogged with particles it won't give you proper timing on the intake side (which is where the cam position sensor is). if you have VVT, there is a solenoid on the CCT also, so check that too. The CCT pads are also an item and can wear down and cause parts of it to end up in the oil pan.

P.S. the CCT requires a special tool to compress it. when you get this tool, turn the screw very very slowly and stop before the tool bucks. to remove the CCT you'll need to remove the intake cam so you can get enough slack on the chain.

 

Your first priority is making sure mechanical timing, i.e., the timing belt and camshafts, is correct.

Have you looked at the chain tensioner? you may need to remove it (or slightly lift it off and use a mirror) to inspect the oil screen underneath. if it's clogged with particles it won't give you proper timing on the intake side (which is where the cam position sensor is). if you have VVT, there is a solenoid on the CCT also, so check that too. The CCT pads are also an item and can wear down and cause parts of it to end up in the oil pan.

So I Checked mechanical timing today and everything lines up So I'm very happy about that. I also pulled the intake cam and chain tensioner, there were a few specks of coked oil on the screen and under the camshaft caps. I forget to removed the CCT solenoid to check but I will.

So far everything I looked at would "suggest" the car loss oil pressure to coked oil build up or block oil pump screen, but I not found any evidence of metal in the oil. I also check for turbo shaft play and I petty much don't have any play. The turbine also spins freely.

My plan is to the replace the valve cover gasket, and the 3 port breather hose connector, install a oil pressure gauge, fill the car with oil and go for a drive to see if I lose power.

 

I have a AWM.

I wanted to check timing yesterday, everything is so tight fitting under the engine bay, it looks like I have to remove the fans to in order to turn the crank pulley.

Great more special tools got to love German cars.

 

What special tool do you need to remove the fans? To remove the belt-driven fan, use a drift or a small hex wrench you won't miss much, sit it the two slots on the bracket and slide it forward until it goes through the hole in the fan; this fixes the fan in place, no special tool necessary.

 

^ I was talking about the cam chain tensioner tool (which I just ordered).

 

use a 19mm ratchet to turn the crankshaft. plenty of space. don't worry about everything being a tight fit in the engine bay. the longer you work on it the more roomy you'll find it.

 

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/6...-advice-sought-non-running-project-car-potential-timing-issue-head-rebuild.html

You are probably in the same boat as me, likely a timing issue and probably has bent valves requiring a head rebuild or replacement. If you are very lucky you may want to start by verifying that the timing belt is still in place (check to make sure the marks line up), check that the PCV system is intact, then check the compression, and if that's ok then try starting it up while connected to an oil pressure guage and verify that the oil pump is making spec pressures.

You've only looked at one cam cap? I would probably pull the cams out entirely and replace the CCT and verify that there is no abnormal wear on any of them and that the oil feed holes to each cam journal are not plugged with those black cruddy coke bits. After that (if everything looks ok) I would pull the oil pan and clean it and replace the pump and pickup tube.

 

First the hose, is it this hose?
Volkswagen Passat B5 FWD 1.8T > Engine > Emissions > ES#6992 Breather Hose Connector - 06B103221P

I would also check the hose coming out of the oil filter adapter, or this hose
Volkswagen Passat B5 FWD 1.8T > Search > 06A103213 > ES#7934 Breather Hose Elbow - 06A103213F

These are part of the PCV system. They seem to be a regular maintenance item. I just replaced them on my model.

VW had a major recall on these engines due to the oil pickup tube clogging up from sludge in the oil and causing a loss of oil pressure. The TSB called for the shop to remove the valve cover, remove each cam cap and checking for abnormal wear. If any signs of unusual wear was found in the cam area they would replace the engine at no cost. If nothing unusual was found they would replace the oil pickup, run some cheap oil & flush thru it for 30 minutes, drain, remove pan and check pickup for debris again, and then reinstall pickup and fill with proper oil.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I'm just waiting on that cct tool before I start working the car again.

As far as the TSB, I thought for the to be free the car still had to be under warranty.

 

As far as the TSB, I thought for the to be free the car still had to be under warranty.

It actually wasn't part of the warranty program, it was two successive settlements to class action suits about the problem. Unfortunately, a 2001 with 129,000 miles is past the limits of both of them. There are details in one of the sticky threads in this forum.

 

Thats true. I only mentioned the TSB on the Oil problem it up in case you were not aware of it. I was not when I first got my car (with the blown engine)

 

I'm was aware, however I couldn't find the actual VW TSB write up anywhere.

This type info seems to be hard to find compare to the other imports I owned in the past.

 

I'm was aware, however I could find the actual VW TSB write up anywhere.

This type info seems to be hard to find compare to the other imports I owned in the past.

Do a more thorough search. There is a member on here (forgot name)from Canada that can email you any TSB you might need or want.

 

Or a W8...

 

How far have you gotten on this citymunky?

 

Not far, I been working on my Galant VR-4 project, but I'm looking into pulling off the chain tensioner tomorrow.

 

I found this video on youtube, now my engine is not even half that bad, but I figured it was good info so I'm posting it up.

 

That's an interesting vid citymunky. Can you get your hands on the fuel pump etc to do the flush like they do, do you plan on doing it?

 

I can however there is no need for me to so, my engine is not that bad. I don't have a sludge, my valvetrain just has the little brown tint (most of which comes off with a rag or wire brush.

Looking into the oil pan from the oil temp sensor I seen the same thing.

 

Video posted above: most neglected 1.8t ever, I mean even the tensioner was fubar

 

Did a little work on the car today, cleaned the head as much as I could. Reinstalled the cam chain tensioner with OEM new gasket set, installed the exhaust and intake cams, cleaned the valve cover.

I'm petty much going to be doing this--->http://www.passatworld.com/forums/42-volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/347109-oil-pressure-light-gone-after-diesel-treatment.html.

 

So the diesel treatment and engine flush was a waste of time. After I fill the car with fresh oil and Mann filter I got the "STOP" light as soon as I pulled out the driveway.

It's looking like I have do what I really don't want and that's drop the oil pan, and start cleaning.:wrench:

EDIT; just ordered a Oil Pump, Oil Pick-up Tube and o-ring from ECS. I guess tomorrow I'll start pulling the oil pan.

 

What do your oil pressure numbers look like? Please don't tell me that you haven't even bothered to install a pressure gauge yet!

So, lemme get this straight: you got it up and running and it sounds ok at idle, but when you left the driveway the oil pressure warning came on. Did it go away once you got up to speed? Did you just drive back into the driveway and shut it down? You really need those oil pressure numbers from an external mechanical pressure gauge!

 

I know. I pulled my oil pressure gauge from my other car but having kids my son picked up the gauge when I wasn't looking and throw it on the ground, now the calibration is off. (He is only 1 year and a half years old)

 

This is a fascinating thread. Keep posting your adventure. Hope to hear good news soon! Sounds like you know a thing or two about owning a 1.8t.

 

So today I dropped the oil pan, its was not that bad of a job.

Not to any surprise there was tons of carbon build up on the oil pan walls, the engine block walls, the oil pump. The oil pump pick up screen was clogged with OEM engine sealant, coked oil, not a single part of the screen was clear I cannot see through the mesh filter at all. I petty much spend most of my day cleaning, the oil pan is so clean now I can lick it.

EDIT: I also pulled the #2 main cap to inspected for damage to crank and bearing. I found nothing out of the norm. :lol:

 

I would not advise licking the pan

 

You go ahead and you lick that pan!