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What did you never change the oil, or ake car eof your car? Thats sucks man good luck

 

Hi All,

Posted here last week, after not being able to figure out why it would not start I had it towed to the local dealer. Weak compression on 1. No compression on 2,3,4. Dealer said no oil to the rings, extreme wear and they are gone. New engine....

Since I do not have an extra $8,300 to have the dealer do it and still owe $10k on the car I am going to need an engine and do this myself, anyone know where I can aquire a decent used engine?

Thanks for all the help.

Justin

Come on...give us some info....

What year Passat? How often did you do oil changes? Why is it not being covered under the sludge warranty?

 

Hi all,

Been a long time reader, first post, I have a problem I can not seem to find. I have a 2001 1.8T with AUG engine if that matters, manual transmission. Went to drive it today and made it about a block down the street and the car died. After about 10 min it started again for about 5 seconds, then died and I have not been able to get it to start again. Checked fuel pressure at the rail and it is fine, checked all fuses. Acts like it is not getting spark on all 4, is this possible? Any ideas? Thanks for the help.

68K Miles, not chipped or any other mods, I changed the timing belt at 60k.

.

 

Did you buy the car used or new? If the dealer wants $8K then an indy could prolly do it for $4K. Ebay also has engines. Check you local bone yards and ask indy mechanics in your area for engines. Plus, people in our classifieds are always parting out cars.

 

Hi All,

Posted here last week, after not being able to figure out why it would not start I had it towed to the local dealer. Weak compression on 1. No compression on 2,3,4. Dealer said no oil to the rings, extreme wear and they are gone. New engine....

Since I do not have an extra $8,300 to have the dealer do it and still owe $10k on the car I am going to need an engine and do this myself, anyone know where I can aquire a decent used engine?

Thanks for all the help.

Justin

maybe get a second opinion? did they do a partial tear down or is this just a W.A.G on their part? I find it very hard to believe that the rings are shot at 68k miles. perhaps something is not right in the head?

 

Thanks for the info guys.

I did oil changes at 5k miles or less. I also own a camry with the toyota sludge engine, I have kept it running!

It is not covered because I did all my own oil changes. WTF

 

Thanks for the info guys.

I did oil changes at 5k miles or less. I also own a camry with the toyota sludge engine, I have kept it running!

It is not covered because I did all my own oil changes. WTF

How many miles on the car and what oil did you use? This could be an important lesson for others.

 

Also, yes we bought the car used, it was a repo, came with 18k miles.

 

If you have receipts for oil & filters that should suffice...

 

68K miles on the car...

When I started reading about these problems I switched over to AMS Oil, at 40k miles. At that point I started doing my own changes. Its is not the oil, I just changed it 3k ago. I used the oil rated at 15k miles or 6 moths, I have always done 5k changes. My camry has this problem, I took the valve cover off and the oil pan and cleaned the sludge out of that engine. I ran the AMS oil at 10k changes for 3 years then checked the engine for more sludge and there was nothing.

 

Green_Hornet: They are telling me that is not acceptable. Plus, I dont have the reciepts from the first owner...

 

Hi All,

Posted here last week, after not being able to figure out why it would not start I had it towed to the local dealer. Weak compression on 1. No compression on 2,3,4. Dealer said no oil to the rings, extreme wear and they are gone. New engine....

Since I do not have an extra $8,300 to have the dealer do it and still owe $10k on the car I am going to need an engine and do this myself, anyone know where I can aquire a decent used engine?

Thanks for all the help.

Justin

I have a hard time believing that it had been running OK, it started OK, and then the rings/cylinder bores wore enough more in a few feet of driving to prevent it from running? Even if they had been previously badly worn, that makes absolutely no sense. I've NEVER seen ring wear occur over such a short period (well, actually I did once - on an engine that had been assembled completely dry with no oil in the bores, and that one never ran until it was rebuilt again). If you had no oil pressure, other things would fail first - rod bearings, camshaft lobes, etc. Sounds like something failed (timing belt slipped, plugged fuel filter (would have pressure at the rail while not running, but not enough flow to keep it running), ignition module failed, other electrical problem, etc.). I definitely think you need a second opinion.

 

Maybe the rings got baked in. Did they do a wet test, or just dry?

I'd try squirting naptha into the cylinders and leaving it soak in. Maybe the rings will free up.

 

I'm reading this and it's very spooky.

The comments about the rings not failing are very true. It is very rare to see a ring failure before a wrist pin or rod nearing failure. Did they fish bits of ring out of the oil pan? I would expect at least serious metal chips in there if the rings were all shot.

In any case, I would like to know what the wet compression is. The fact that they ran compression is interesting - to run a compression test you have to run the starter. If the timing belt has jumped more than one tooth, you will have problems with compression. Since they can run the starter to do a compression test, we can assume that there were no valve impacts.

The only way to assure that "no oil to the rings" is a real diagnosis is to pull the pan and pressurize the oil feeds. Did they do this? Have they told you that the engine is still in perfect time?

There are 150 different ways to lose compression.

Please email me, I have a useful contact for you.

 

Green_Hornet: They are telling me that is not acceptable. Plus, I dont have the reciepts from the first owner...

VW sludge warranty appears to be worthless for DIYers. If you read the VW letter in the link, they will cover it if "you can provide documentation of oil changes according to the maintenance schedule of your vehicle". The only reference as to what constitutes "documentation" is found in the attached form to the letter: "All documentation must include: documents such as: stamped maintenance book or receipts from an authorized VW dealer or professional licensed repair facility ...". Looks like DIYers are screwed even if they can provide filter and oil receipts.


http://www.autosafety.org/uploads/phpHPDpvG_VWOilSludge.pdf

 

Thanks for the help all, I agree the ring wear in about 250 feet of driving does not make sense. They did run a wet compression and that is why they are thinging rings. Here are the numbers, cylender order 1-4 wet second;

175,127,90,48
245,182,120,75

Before I took the car in, I ran fuel tests and checked the coils, I also checked the timing belt. Dealer has confirmed that the timing belt is still perfect.

 

... Here are the numbers, cylender order 1-4 wet second;

175,127,90,48
245,182,120,75

...

Interesting that they decrease front to back.

 

We had a 2004 Jetta with 28K on it last month. One oil change at 15K and thats it. The engine was so sludged up that the pistons & valves collided on start up. $8000 for a new engine & turbo.

 

That's far from no compression!

It looks like you lost a head bolt.

Some compression is different from NO compression. Some compression means that you are getting pressure, but not very much. This could be a crapped up intake runner or a blown head gasket. Ask them to do a leakdown test on it. If the leakdown is good across the board, then your combustion chambers are fine. If it is bad in the same order, then they need to pull the head (or at least the intake mani) to really do any more diagnostic work.

On the TDI side, clogged intake runners are not unheard of due to ridiculous EGR designs. What if the PCV system is screwing up one end of his intake mani?

 

My dad drives a semi truck and with prices being the way they are people look for repos because of the great geals you can get. But there is always a chance that the guy with the truck knew he couldn't make payments so he just ran it as long as he could before the repo man takes it. This also means that ALL maintence is ignored.

Maybe the person who owned the car before you knew he wans't going to keep it long and just ignored all maintenence.

 

If you had oil/filter receipts that at least dated every 6 months, you'd have something to argue with VW about.

 

That's far from no compression!

It looks like you lost a head bolt.

Some compression is different from NO compression. Some compression means that you are getting pressure, but not very much. This could be a crapped up intake runner or a blown head gasket. Ask them to do a leakdown test on it. If the leakdown is good across the board, then your combustion chambers are fine. If it is bad in the same order, then they need to pull the head (or at least the intake mani) to really do any more diagnostic work.

On the TDI side, clogged intake runners are not unheard of due to ridiculous EGR designs. What if the PCV system is screwing up one end of his intake mani?

Unless the intake manifold is essentially completely blocked, that shouldn't affect compression readings very much, since that's done at cranking speed (doesn't need much intake area to fill the cylinder).

A blown head gasket COULD do what he is seeing, but usually affects at most two cylinders. The trend of better in front, worse in rear may be an indication the the motor was severely overheated (WP failed?) some time in the past (before he owned it and switched to synthetic oil) and the rear of the motor was the most severely affected. If the WP failed and coolant flow was severely reduced, the water that did flow would short-circuit and mostly cool the front of the engine, possibly creating more cylinder/ring wear at the rear.

However, even this does not explain why the engine SUDDENLY stopped running after starting with no problem.

 

My dad drives a semi truck and with prices being the way they are people look for repos because of the great geals you can get. But there is always a chance that the guy with the truck knew he couldn't make payments so he just ran it as long as he could before the repo man takes it. This also means that ALL maintence is ignored.

Maybe the person who owned the car before you knew he wans't going to keep it long and just ignored all maintenence.

This would be my thought. Couldn't afford the car - couldn't afford the maintenance.

When I started reading about these problems I switched over to AMS Oil, at 40k miles. At that point I started doing my own changes. Its is not the oil, I just changed it 3k ago. I used the oil rated at 15k miles or 6 moths, I have always done 5k changes.

Out of curiosity, what oil were you using before the 40K change?

I don't know much about the oil sludge issue on the Camrys, but the situation with VW is not so much "sludge" as it's coked oil that ends up blocking the oil pickup screen in the sump. So what you would find is not some goop in the engine, but hard carbonized bits in the screen. It's a completely different problem.

 

Altair:

I was using Castrol before 40k.

The sludge issue with the Camry IS the same, the camry 2.2 turns oil into hard chunks, kind of a brown in color. That was why I cleaned the pan and under the valve cover on that car. I checked under the valve cover later and there were no hard build ups around the cams.