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Misfire diagnosis - check my logic please?

1.2K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  keenyoung  
#1 ·
Hello friends,

2003 Passat 1.8T automatic, stock. Purchased cheap with big engine problems. Replaced timing belt, chain tensioner, and oil pump. Ran great for two days, then started to run rough. Vag-Com reported P0300 random misfire multiple cylinders, and P0303 misfire cylinder 3, intermittent high level.

I swapped coils 2 and 3, cleared codes, and test drove. Ran great for 15 minutes, then rough again. Vag-Com gave P0300 and P0303. So the coils are OK. Swapped injectors 2 and 3, cleared codes, and test drove. Same crap, ran good for 15 minutes, then rough. Vag-Com gave P0300 and P0303. So the injectors are OK.

Compression test gives about 155 PSI on all cylinders. Ran a smoke test, and the vacuum lines are all good.

It only happens when it's fully hot. So lastly I pulled the #3 coil and grounded it on the engine, and started it up cold. #3 sparking great cold. Put coil back in, and took it for a test drive, and it ran great for 15 minutes, then rough again. While it was still hot I pulled the #3 coil again and grounded it on the engine. No spark!

So, this has to be the wiring or connector to the #3 coil, right? Since it doesn't move when the coils are swapped? But how can heat cause this?

Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Keen
 
#2 ·
Could be the wiring or connector to that #3 coil. The wires inside the harness that runs along the top of the valve cover sometimes get cooked/brittle with age and the insulation will break up and cause shorts.

It could also be the ECM. Each coil has it's own trigger signal output from the ECM. If that output is dieing, you'll lose spark trigger pulse and the coil won't fire. Sometimes semiconductors fail in such a way that they work normally till they heat up.

Double check the ignition system grounding point on top of the valve cover between cylinders 1 and 2. It looks like one or two brown wires fastened under a valve cover nut.
 
#3 ·
Grounding is fine.

Hmm. Since it happens only when hot, your suggestions lead me to believe it needs a new ECM. I can get a used ECM locally for $30. But, if my research is correct, we can no longer get PIN numbers from the dealers for the immobilizer, right? So with a used ECM, I need to take the whole damn car to the dealer to get the used ECM adapted, right? Or is there a way I can do it with VagCom?

Keen
 
#4 ·
Update: It was the ECM. It runs great now.

And may I just say; P*ss on my local VW dealer!

I drove the car to the dealer, and handed them the new(used) ECM. I had taken off the plastic shield over the ECM, taken off the wipers and plastic wiper guard, and left the screws out of the ECM container. All they had to do do was hook it up to the scanner that calls Germany and downloads the codes, swap the ECM (3 minutes if you're an idiot), and wait for the programming to finish. They charged me for 1.5 hours! Flipping $166 for 10 minutes of ACTUAL work! All because their little book says it takes 1.5 hours to do it. Bast*rds.

All this after the service manager insisted that I had diagnosed it wrong, because ECM's never fail. Moron. And the dealers wonder why anyone who knows a little about cars hates them! This is the first (and last) time I've used service at the dealer fo 30 years!

Rant over,
Keen