A milkshake on the dipstick usually indicates the presence of water. Has the car had a good highway run lately? If not, the oil just hasn't gotten hot enough to boil it off.

Also check the coolant tank; if there's crud in it too, you have a failed oil cooler. (The thing the oil filter screws into is the oil cooler.)

 

Tank is completely clean.

 

YOu may have a failed head gasket. Milky stuff in the oil usually indicates coolant getting into it.

 

Head Gaskets = Not a big problem area in our 1.8T engines. Naturally, we had to have one thing that was really robust on our engines! As mentioned above, the oil cooler or short trip driving in cold weather are prime reasons for latte milkshake in oil.

 

The oil cooler on which the oil filter mounts is a known weak spot on these cars. (They have failed on my 1996 A4, my wife's 2001 Passat, and my elder son's 2002 A4.) Because oil pressure is higher than coolant pressure, cross-contamination from oil into coolant is more common than the reverse, but either could happen.

You definitely want to inspect the bottom of the cap on your coolant recovery tank, as well as the color of your coolant. Brown, discolored coolant and/or residue on the underside of the cap indicate that oil is getting into the cooling system. Again, if you are lucky, it is an easily replaced $50 oil cooler; if not, it is a head gasket or a cracked head, as others have mentioned in this thread.

 

I have never seen nor heard of a leaking head gasket or cracked head on one of these engines, except after serious overheating, or improper head installation.

I suggest you dismantle and clean or replace all parts of the PCV system.

 

See sirwired post above. If this is cold weather related and you do shorter commutes, that is the reason for it. Happens every year to my V6 when it gets cold and has been well documented by many others on this site. It will go away when the weather warms up.

 

I totally agree. My V6 also does this when in the winter when I only drive it less then a mile every day in during the winter.

 

I have the V6 159k and the previous owner did very minimal repairs/ maint.

I had the coolant system flushed and had a residue in there that resembled milkshake (very small amount) Mechanic said it was the head gasket and or oil cooler.

Upon inspection of the PCV system. I found it to have the milky residue in the hoses. It was partially clogged and 2 of the related valves were completely clogged.

I haven't noticed any water on the dipstick

I ordered the entire system from ECS instead of trying to clean it. Glad I did because when I started to take it apart the hoses and clips disintegrated.

I take it on the highway to allow the engine to completely warm up and have since not noticed any discoloration in the coolant tank or oil and I just did my second oil change

 

Nice, I ordered the pcv kit from my favorite spot FCPEuro, I also brought silicone vac hoses also just because. Thanks for the help guys and I'll let you know what were the end results.

 

Quick question again, since im doing all of this i might as well change the check valves right? do they have different part numbers or they are all the same when i order them? How about this? should i buy like 5 or 6 of these?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-air-pump-check-valve-058905291k



OR THIS


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...roduct/B00BQS6VDK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

I totally agree. I drive my car a very short distance in the winter and my V6 also does this. I get a milky white residue on my oil cap but this disappears in the summer when I drive it for much longer. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

No answer on the checkvalve question?

 

I would replace the check valves but that's just me. Plus 2 of mine were totally clogged. It wasn't worth trying to clean them.

The kit I ordered came with them

 

I understand but are the checkvalves the same part number so all I need were to buy multiple from the options I posted before?

 

Check valves are check valves. As long as the nipple diameter is correct, it'll work. Any auto parts store will have generic ones likely even cheaper than those links.

 

great and tyvm

 

Wait one more, I'm going to seafoam the 1.8T. Can I seafoam thru the FPR-IM?

 

You could, but don't expect it to do any good, it is much more likely to be harmful.

 

I gave my opinion, take it or leave it.
I am not wasting my time trying to explain anything to someone who would rather listen to a snake oil salesman.

 

Like I said I have proof it worked for me and you showed no proof to why you feel it wouldn't work. I asked you for your reasoning and still nothing. I would like to know why you say this because you might have a good reason but I won't know because your not saying anything so you wasted your time since your first post.