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I was told I need front/back struts & Stabilizer Bar Links. Advice needed

1.6K views 33 replies 6 participants last post by  john palley  
#1 ·
I have a 2004 Passat 1.8t sedan. I bought my car like 6 years ago at 155k miles and ive never done anything to the suspension system.Im currently at 220k miles today. Recently ive been feeling vibration at high speeds and I now drift on the highway. I just got my tires balanced and and did a four wheel alignment so its not the tires. It seems too that after four wheel alignments the car never feels completely aligned. I was told by my a mechanic that I need front and rear struts plus stabilizer bar links for the front. I went to the dealership today to get the part numbers and the guy confused me. Im good on the struts but for the stabilizer bar links he said something about them being attached to another piece or something then he gave me two part numbers for wishbones. When I look up pictures of stabilizer bar links it doesnt look like its part of these Wishbones. Just to be clear heres the part numbers he gave me>

3B0413031AB front struts
3B5513031E rear struts
8E0407693AG wishbone
8E0407694AG wishbone

The wishbone part numbers come up as control arms, heres the link.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw...m/products/vw-audi-suspension-control-arm-front-left-lower-rear-vag-8e0407693ag

Also heres the struts I found.

Fyi my mechanic said the control arms on my car look sturdy so now im so freakin confused. Guys can you please tell me which parts to buy? Fyi I want all volkswagen parts. I just want my car to drive as smooth as it used too.If you guys recommend to replace other part too i'll go ahead and do so.Thanks
 
#2 ·
The sway bar link numbers are 8D0411317D (left) and 8D0411318D (right). These would be good to replace since the bushings are almost certainly fried after 220k miles, but I doubt they're what's causing most of the vibration.

The B5 Passat has 8 total control arms in the front, four per side, meaning 8 total bushings and 8 total ball joints. Based on my own experience at 140k miles, I fully expect all of those bushings and ball joints to be shot, assuming they haven't already been replaced. The control arms themselves are probably fine, but unfortunately replacement ball joints aren't available from VW so the only way to replace the joint is to replace the arm.

You could go all out and replace all 8 arms, or you could do them in pairs and see if the vibrations go away. I did all 8 arms, and sway bar links, fairly recently and the car feels brand new.
 
#3 ·
Wow great info. At this point I think im committed to getting my car to ride perfect again. Im leaning toward getting all 8. Do you by any chance know of a kit that includes all 8? If not id really appreciate it if you could get me the part numbers. If its too much to ask dont worry about it. I'll go back to the dealership. Thanks for the sway bar link numbers!
 
#5 ·
That would be a good kit to go with.
The tariffs must have kicked in. :oops:
Last time I looked those kits were going for about $600. It wasn't that long ago either, maybe a month or so ago.
 
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#6 ·
Thanks for the reply Andreas. Just my freakin luck I’m a month late lol. It’s always something. I’m gonna do some more searching to see if I can get the kit cheaper. Already tried though and didn’t see anything.

On another note I just want to make sure there’s nothing else I need to buy. I was just reading about bump stops. Am I gonna need to get bump stops also or any mounts of any kind? I will be buying that kit and this strut kit fyi
 
#7 ·
Bump stops are needed if you're going to lower the suspension.
Based what I'm reading, the Bilstein B4 kit is for the standard / factory ride height.
If you're changing out the springs for other springs or coil-overs, then that's another story and bump stops will for sure be needed.
 
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#9 ·
#12 ·
To further backup that previous post.
I did some brief digging.
I bought Lemforder upper control arms a while back (2 years ago) just to get one my W8's on the road quickly.
Yeah well, those are already junk and the car has sat in the driveway way longer than it's been on the road.
I don't really know for sure, would have to dig around some more but I'm guessing I've got about 4-5k miles on the front tires and the steel chords are visible on the inside edge of the tires.
I drive 600 miles a week just for work so that kind of wear came up quick!
 
#14 ·
Depending on how long you intend to keep that 220K mile car, you might consider the Uro parts kit at autohausaz, for under $250. It doesn't include the sway bar links, but in any event worn or cracked bushings in those links can't cause vibration or drifting on the road. Sway bar links only help reduce tilting of the vehicle during cornering. I've got Uro control arms and tie-rods on my 2005 A4, and no complaints.
 
#15 ·
I appreciate the recommendation. Ive been doing a lot of thinking about this and im heavily leaning toward the Lemforder kit. Its pricy but I like how its an OE kit and im figuring its my best shot to get the same feel my car used to have. I just dont want to be disappointed. But best believe im gonna keep this Uro parts kit idea in my head for the future. Specially if I have to keep replacing these parts. As of now im planning to keep my car for a long time. I never thought I was gonna love it as much as I do. Its gonna be hard to get rid of, its so fun to drive. A lot of maintenance though.
 
#16 ·
If you're going to spend that kind of money and plan on keeping the car long term, I plunk down for the 034 Motorsport or the Verkline brand.
It'll make the car handle even better and will still be very close to the OE ride.
 
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#20 · (Edited)
I just wanted to give a final update. I ended up going with the Lemforder kit. It was more pricey but my original goal was to get back to the way my car used to drive. I also ended up getting the Bilstein Shocks and Struts kit for the front and back. I just got everything installed and wow what a difference. Im happy with everything. The mechanic I just found too installed everything for $875 which I think is a freakin steal. That also includes him putting on a front axle that I bought and also sending my car out to get a four wheel alignment. I wanna thank everyone in this thread for all the help.

There was just one concern I had after installation if you guys can just help me out. On the back right above the wheel you can see the metal piece of the shock. On the other side of the car its covered. Should I be concerned about this? Should It be covered up like the other side to protect it from debris ruining the shock?
 

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#26 ·
Good choice with the Bilstein's.
As far as the shock bellows cover, many of the Passat's I've seen that cover has been chewed up or completely gone.
I guess it depends what region you're in. If your up in the rust belt, I would for sure want one on there.

If you're in a dry climate area, meh, maybe.

Just coming from my OCD point of view, I would want one on there no matter what, but that's just me.

Might want to think about getting the factory bump stops installed again.
Kinda makes me wonder why the mechanic didn't do that while it was apart.

It's a pretty easy fix to put the bump stops in and bellows, especially since the shocks were just installed. All the hardware is brand new.
Pop the shock off, pop off the upper mount, install the bump stop and bellows, reinstall. Easy peasy.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Good choice with the Bilstein's.
As far as the shock bellows cover, many of the Passat's I've seen that cover has been chewed up or completely gone.
I guess it depends what region you're in. If your up in the rust belt, I would for sure want one on there.

If you're in a dry climate area, meh, maybe.

Just coming from my OCD point of view, I would want one on there no matter what, but that's just me.

Might want to think about getting the factory bump stops installed again.
Kinda makes me wonder why the mechanic didn't do that while it was apart.

It's a pretty easy fix to put the bump stops in and bellows, especially since the shocks were just installed. All the khardware is brand new.
Pop the shock off, pop off the upper mount, install the bump stop and bellows, reinstall. Easy peasy.
Im actually in Rhode Island. As long as its not a big project im just gonna put them on. I was trying to figure out how quick I should. Maybe I'll just wait until the next oil change which isnt that far off or if a problem happens. Im not sure maybe i'll just bring the car right in.

Fyi I was gonna get these Meyle ones for $13 each. Im not seeing any OE or OEM ones available and ive heard you guys say great things about this brand.

They want $54 for the Genuine vw audi ones. I really dont feel like spending that much after spending $1500 on parts.

Should I get these Rein ones instead?
There only $10 and there yellow just like the genuine ones, Im not sure if you think the'll be closer to the original? I would prefer white though. As you know im trying to get as close as I can to the feel of the original ride.
 
#28 ·
Guys I really need some help. As I explained earlier in this thread I ended up going with the Bilstein shocks and struts kit below.

The more I drove the car the more I realized the ride wasnt the same. Its more performance based and has way less of a bounce. These were listed as OEM on fcp euro. I than re looked at the shocks and struts available for my car on fcp's site and they had the Sachs kit which is listed as OE. It also says its meant to bring back the car to a factory ride. I decided to buy these instead and switch them out.

I just talked to my mechanic and he said those are the wrong shocks and when he tried to put them on, the car would of been laying on the ground. He said he found a company in Massachusetts where he could get the shocks from which are OEM and they were a company that the dealership would use. Im so freakin confused right now. How could they be the wrong parts when It says on the site that it fits my car? What do you guys think i should do? I was thinking I could go to the vw dealership tomorrow and order directly from them but I got a feeling there gonna say they cant get the parts.
 
#30 ·
I really dont think thats the case as its such a big difference. The bouncy suspension was literally my favorite thing about my car since I bought it. I hate a rough ride.

Also this is the AI search comparison results I looked at before I decided to switch the Bilsteins out for the Sachs.

From Grok>

"When choosing between Bilstein and Sachs shocks and struts, the decision largely depends on your driving preferences, vehicle type, and desired balance between comfort and performance. Both brands are reputable and often used as OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts for various vehicles, particularly German makes like BMW, Mercedes-Benz, and Audi. Below is a comparison based on key factors, incorporating insights from automotive forums and user experiences:
Overview
  • Bilstein: Known for German engineering, Bilstein shocks and struts are often associated with sportier, firmer rides and superior handling. They are popular in performance-oriented applications and are available in multiple lines (e.g., B4, B6, B8) to suit different needs.
  • Sachs: Also a German brand, Sachs is a common OEM supplier for many European vehicles. They are typically designed for comfort and durability, offering a smoother, more compliant ride that closely matches factory settings.
Key Differences
  1. Ride Quality:
    • Bilstein: Generally firmer, especially with their performance lines like B6 (Heavy Duty) and B8 (Sport). The B4 (Touring Class) is closer to OEM ride quality but may still feel slightly stiffer than Sachs. Users note that Bilstein shocks, particularly B6 and B8, reduce body roll and improve handling but can feel harsh on rough roads or potholes, especially in sport suspensions.

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    • Sachs: Prioritizes comfort, providing a softer, more cushioned ride that’s ideal for daily driving or long-distance cruising. Users often report Sachs as feeling closer to the stock ride of their vehicle, making them a good choice for those who prefer a smoother experience over sporty handling.

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  2. Performance and Handling:
    • Bilstein: Offers better control and stability, particularly in high-speed cornering or heavy-duty applications (e.g., towing or off-roading). The B6 and B8 series are designed for performance enthusiasts or lowered vehicles, providing tighter damping and improved responsiveness. Bilstein’s monotube design in some models enhances heat dissipation and durability under stress.

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    • Sachs: While reliable, Sachs shocks are less focused on performance and more on maintaining stock handling characteristics. They are less likely to enhance sporty driving but are sufficient for most standard driving conditions. Some users report Sachs as feeling “spongy” compared to Bilstein in performance scenarios.

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  3. Durability and Longevity:
    • Bilstein: Widely praised for longevity, with users reporting 100,000+ miles on some models (e.g., B4, B6). The monotube construction in higher-end models contributes to their durability, especially in demanding conditions.

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    • Sachs: Also durable, often lasting as long as OEM shocks (e.g., 172,000 km on a Mercedes SLK). However, some users note that cheaper Sachs models may wear out faster than Bilstein, particularly in harsh conditions.

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  4. Price:
    • Bilstein: Often slightly cheaper for equivalent models (e.g., Bilstein B4 vs. Sachs OEM). For example, Bilstein B4s can be found for $330–$450 per set, while Sachs OEM equivalents may cost $400 or more. However, Bilstein’s performance lines (B6, B8) are pricier.

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    • Sachs: Can be more expensive in some cases, but prices vary by retailer and region. For instance, Sachs were reported as twice the price of Bilstein B4s in one case, though occasionally cheaper through specific suppliers like AutoDoc.

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  5. Availability:
    • Bilstein: Some users report supply issues, particularly for B4 models, which can be hard to source from certain suppliers.

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    • Sachs: Generally more available as an OEM replacement, especially for European vehicles.

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  6. Application:
    • Bilstein: Offers a range of options:
      • B4 (Touring Class): OEM replacement, similar to stock ride but with slightly better control.
      • B6 (Heavy Duty): Firmer, for performance or heavy-duty use.
      • B8 (Sport): Designed for lowered vehicles or aggressive driving, very firm.
      • Suitable for those who want improved handling or a sportier feel.

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    • Sachs: Typically OEM or close-to-OEM replacements, ideal for maintaining factory ride quality. Sachs Sport models are firmer but still softer than Bilstein B6/B8.

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User Feedback and Experiences
  • Bilstein:
    • Users appreciate Bilstein B4s for their balance of firmness and comfort after a break-in period (about a week), though some find them too stiff for pothole-heavy roads.

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    • B6 and B8 models are praised for handling improvements but criticized for harshness in daily driving, especially in urban environments with poor roads.

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    • Some report Bilsteins lasting longer than Sachs, with fewer replacements needed.

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  • Sachs:
    • Preferred by those prioritizing comfort, especially for non-sport suspensions. Users replacing worn Sachs with new Sachs report satisfaction with ride quality.

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    • Some users find Sachs Sport shocks firmer than expected, occasionally harsher than adjustable alternatives like Koni Yellows.

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    • Sachs are often chosen for their OEM pedigree, ensuring a factory-like experience.

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Recommendations
  • Choose Bilstein if:
    • You prioritize handling and stability, especially for spirited driving, towing, or performance upgrades (e.g., lowered springs or sway bars).
    • You’re okay with a firmer ride and potentially better longevity.
    • Your vehicle has a sport suspension, and you want to maintain or enhance its performance (B6 or B8 recommended).
    • Example: Bilstein B4 for OEM-like ride with slight firmness, B6/B8 for performance.

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  • Choose Sachs if:
    • Comfort is your top priority, and you want a ride close to the factory feel.
    • You drive primarily on rough roads or value a softer, more compliant suspension.
    • Your vehicle uses Sachs as OEM, and you want to maintain stock characteristics.
    • Example: Sachs OEM or Sport for a balanced, comfortable ride.

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  • Additional Considerations:
    • Springs and Mounts: Replace associated components (e.g., strut mounts, bump stops, springs) for optimal performance and to avoid issues like clunking or premature wear. Lemfoerder mounts are often recommended as OEM-quality.

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    • Vehicle-Specific Fitment: Ensure compatibility with your vehicle’s suspension (e.g., sport vs. non-sport, lowered vs. stock height). Bilstein B8s are specifically for lowered vehicles, while B4s and Sachs are better for stock setups.

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    • Road Conditions: If you frequently encounter potholes or rough roads, Sachs or Bilstein B4s are likely better choices than the firmer B6/B8.

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Conclusion
Both Bilstein and Sachs are high-quality brands with strong reputations. Sachs is the go-to for a comfortable, OEM-like ride, ideal for daily drivers who prioritize smoothness. Bilstein shines for those seeking improved handling and a sportier feel, with the B4 being a good middle ground and B6/B8 catering to performance enthusiasts. Consider your driving style, road conditions, and whether you’re keeping stock springs or upgrading to performance springs when making your choice.
If you’re still unsure, let me know your vehicle model, suspension type (sport or standard), and driving preferences, and I can tailor the recommendation further!
 
#31 ·
The term "bouncy" is subject to varying degrees of interpretation.
General rule of thumb for suspension is while pushing on the car to make it go up and down, after you take your hands off the car, the car should stop bouncing (sitting still) on the second rebound.

Anything more than that your shocks are worn and can be potentially dangerous if you need to make an evasive maneuver on the road at highway speeds.
If the car rebounds a third time, I wouldn't let it go out on the road until fixed.
 
#32 ·
Sorry I have a hard time explaining things sometimes. Let me explain it like this. If im pulling out of lets say a bank parking lot on to the street. You know how sometimes its a steep drop and the weight of the front of the car is being pushed down? I want the car to have a descent soft bounce where I think the shocks are going down more and then it bounces back up. Thats the best I can describe it sorry. Shocks like that make the car so much more smoother to drive. I drive cars for a living and theres alot of them that have suspension like that including a lot of brand new BMW's.

Just to give you an update, I went to my mechanic this morning and he said he was able to put on the rear Sachs shocks but the front ones were the wrong ones. He then told me he ordered the front shocks and the car will be ready today. He ordered them from a company called Northside Imports.
I guess this company is a german parts importer and provides dealership parts to the dealerships and its all OEM parts. I called them up when I got home and thats what they told me so that should mean its not gonna be Bilstein. Im gonna make sure I get the box from the mechanic cause I wanna see what it says. I never knew a company like this existed. My mechanic gets all his german parts through them. Maybe later today my car will be driving like it used too. Fingers crossed.
 
#33 ·
I understand now what you're after.
Sorry you had to spend a bunch of money to get what you didn't want.

I used to shop Northside Imports (Chicago location) all the time when I lived in WI. The service there is awesome, well it used to be anyways.
Haven't shopped there in at least 7 years.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Im glad you understand now what im after. Theres a slight delay in picking up my car. The struts came in but my mechanic said one of them looked used so he doesnt feel comfortable putting it on. There shipping the replacement in from New Jersey tomorrow. Check out this pic from my mechanic Andreas. This is the strut, its made by Sachs! Exactly the company I wanted to go with. Also with the official Audi logo. Im extremely confident im gonna be all set. Alot of freakin wasted money though like you said. What im thinking about doing is getting my mechanic to order me like 3 sets of these Shocks/struts for the future and just sit on them. Or if someone knows where I can order these myself online please let me know. Im gonna do some searching tonight but as you can see im not that good at picking the right parts. The part number is in the pic. It wont let me imbed the pic for some reason. Fyi on the sticker it says 81 4903 557 467 Then below that it says Sachs then 4B0 412 031 CE
 

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