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HOWTO: W8 Spark Plugs

45K views 41 replies 21 participants last post by  JayTheSnork  
#1 ·
Step 1: Remove engine cover.

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Step 2: Remove left intake manifold side

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5mm hex

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Manifold side removed, metal gasket intact.

Step 3: Disconnect wire harness from coil packs.

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Step 4: Remove coil pack.

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Step 5: Remove spark plug with 5/8" sparkplug socket and 6" extender.

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Step 6 (optional): Place anti-sieze on new plug threads.

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..but not that much! I used NGK Iridium plugs.

Step 7: Install new plug, tighten to 30 N*m (22 ft*lbs). Repeat for plugs 2 through 4.

Step 8: Reinstall left manifold side.

Step 9: Unclip coolant hose from right manifold side.

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Remove right manifold side, remove old plugs, install new plugs same as left side.
 
#37 ·
Piece of cake?? He had to take the damn intake manifold off.

Of course, given that it's a W8, I guess that is a piece of cake, relatively speaking. That engine is just more trouble than it's worth; it's a wonder you don't have to pull it out to drain the oil.
 
#4 ·
The hardest part is actually getting the harness off the coil pack. I used a screwdriver to pry up the little tab, but it took some persistance. I think you should be able to push down on the back and pull, but that only worked for me on one.

If anyone knows an easier way, I'm all ears.
 
#10 ·
I'll see what I can do tonight. Each manifold side has 5 bolts - 2 on each side and one in the middle. They're pretty easy to see and get to. The coil packs just pull out - no fasteners.

Here's a picture of the wire harness.

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It's a little out of focus, but you can see the little tab on the top inside. That is what I had to pry up with a screwdriver. If you get it in there, just gently pry up until you hear a "click" then pull. It took me a long time to get the first one, but then the others were pretty easy.
 
#9 ·
I wanna see one duringa rebuilding.
Not that i wish anyone need a rebuilding.
If anyone wnats to atke apart thier w8 for the hell of it, i can take pictures ;)
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What i came to say: Good write up, info forum?
 
#14 ·
Bill,

Nice write-up and nice pics.:bowdown: Do you feel it is really necessary to disconnet the wire harness from the coilpacks? While the Bently specified this for my wife's 1.8T it was very easy for me to remove the coil packs without disconnecting the harnesses.

Tom

W8 Registry
 
#16 ·
Bill,
Nice write-up and nice pics.:bowdown: Do you feel it is really necessary to disconnet the wire harness from the coilpacks? While the Bently specified this for my wife's 1.8T it was very easy for me to remove the coil packs without disconnecting the harnesses.
Tom
W8 Registry
I didn't disconnect the coilpacks when I pulled the plugs, can be done,...not much slack in the wires though.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Important suggestion

If I might offer a suggestion, and also suggest that you edit your original post to include it: you need to be really, really careful about the alignment dowels on the intake manifold. When you R&R the manifold, the dowels can fall out without you noticing and get into places they're not supposed to be. There is a TSB on it, and a VW/Audi Tech Tip (copied below).
TT-03-01
W-8 Engine, Intake Manifold Removal Information
Whenever removing or separating the intake manifold on the W-8 engine please be aware of the following important information. There are two dowel pins used to align the upper and lower manifolds and gasket. If care is not taken during disassembly and reassembly of the manifold it is possible that one of these pins will fall into the engine and result in engine damage or failure.
This has actually happened to some poor guy on VWVortex. His dealer was doing other work and the tech had one fall out. It ate the engine; they had to buy him a new one. Twice, actually, but the second engine had something else wrong with it. W8 engines are Not Cheap. Check and re-check this whenever you have to touch the intake manifold.

Edit: False alarm. The dowels in question are between the upper and lower intake manifolds, and the upper intake manifold doesn't come off during this procedure. Thanks to stewartglx4motion for clarifying.
 
#21 ·
:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

If I might offer a suggestion, and also suggest that you edit your original post to include it: you need to be really, really careful about the alignment dowels on the intake manifold. When you R&R the manifold, the dowels can fall out without you noticing and get into places they're not supposed to be. There is a TSB on it, and a VW/Audi Tech Tip (copied below).
This has actually happened to some poor guy on VWVortex. His dealer was doing other work and the tech had one fall out. It ate the engine; they had to buy him a new one. Twice, actually, but the second engine had something else wrong with it. W8 engines are Not Cheap. Check and re-check this whenever you have to touch the intake manifold.
 
#23 · (Edited)
My Passat's motor only requires 6 spark plugs :) so I will gladly defer to someone who's got personal experience. However, I'm seeing gasket/manifold alignment pins on the far-right side of the manifold pieces in pictures 3, 4 and 5 of the writeup. You're certain those aren't it? You're certain they're fixed in place and can't fall out and into things?

Edit: I checked Bentley and you're absolutely right, sorry for the false alarm.
 
#29 · (Edited)
At .032" to the center electrode, each ground electrode nearly touches the insulator since the radius bend of the ground electrodes don't extend beyond the end of the insulator. That picture shows much more gap than the .032" on my UE's.

NGK lists the UE's gap at .032" for W8. They come from the factory more than that.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/apps/car_truck_suv/

2003 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT 4 MOTION 4.0 W8 BDP FI

Spark Plug Part No. Stock No. Plug Gap Photo
Standard BKR6EKUE 7892 .032 n/a
Iridium IX BKR6EIX-11 3764 .032