It must be the stalk.. see if the cruise control works on it.. I had a similar problem with an intermittent turn signal and just sprayed some electrical contact in the stalk and no problems for almost a year now. I would imagine that would be the cheapest fix. If not check the fuses. I don't think the high beams have a separate fuse but its worth checking it out.

 

yea sounds like something is not getting the current, could one of 3 things, first check all fuses. second could be the relay behind the fuse box, failing that it must then be the conections running from the CCM, open your CCM make sure there is no water damage. check for green worn out or rusted connections and cut them out re join them. There are lots of directions on how to find and remove the ccm, just search wet footwell

 

I don't think the high beam circuits go through the CCM.
Probably not a fuse or relay if the high beams work every single time when you pull the stalk but fail to work when you push the stalk.
Probably a failing contact in the stalk assembly.

 

The CCM has absolutely nothing at all to do with the high beams.

Your issue is almost certainly with the stalk, with the headlight switch being a distant second.

 

Typical stalk headlight contact problem. The contacts get hot, soften the plastic holder for the movable contact, which then looses its force against the fixed contact surface. These can be taken apart and restored with an Xacto knife and polishing compound, or you can just replace the entire stalk switch assembly.

 

Thanks for all the replies!

I tried spraying some contact cleaning spray in the area where the stalk meets the steering column but no dice.

Ylwagon, do I simply remove the plastic housing around the steering wheel to get at this switch? I see there are a couple of small screws holding it in place. I was hoping it would be something as simple as cleaning the contacts. I had a signal switch problem a year or so ago and this solution worked. Let me know if I need to try something else.

Thanks

Mark

 

I think that the only way to remove that stalk switch is by taking the steering wheel, with "clock spring", off first, at least on my A4 that's how it is. I could have the switch out in 10 minutes on that car now, though I've never had to do our Passat's yet. After that it is just removal of small screws, and watching out for small pieces that can spring out.

 

Do I need a special tool to remove the steering wheel? I read somewhere that the bolt or screw has 12 points on it?

 

Do I need a special tool to remove the steering wheel?

No. You only need to know someone who does.

If you're willing to drive to Chicago, I'll take it apart and put it together for you. I've swapped out turn signal stalks before but never took the stalk assembly apart to clean the contacts. We could try that or if you want, order a replacement stalk and bring it with. PM me if you're interested.

 

1) That 12-point bit would be a "triple square," which is sort of like a Torx with twice as many points. My local AZO actually had a set in stock, but I had to educate the sales guy what they were called and where they were used. There are a few other triple square bolts on these cars.

2) Be very careful when fooling around w/ the steering wheel, because you do not want the airbag going off in your face.

3) It certainly sounds like a bad switch contact to me. I had a somewhat similar problem on my 1996 A4, which uses a stalk-mounted headlight switch for off, park, and park + headlights. I put a jumper between the parking light and headlight fuses, so that the positions, which had become off, park, and park are now off, park + headlights, park + headlights.

You can rule out your high beam relay because your "optical horn" works.

 

1) That 12-point bit would be a "triple square," which is sort of like a Torx with twice as many points. QUOTE]

John,

Thanks for educating me. I presume I need a metric size for my car? Would you happen to know?

Thanks

Mark

 

That's a decent offer to make, Steve. A few cool ones for you if ever in the SoCal area!

 

Update.

I installed a new signal switch/stalk, genuine VW part, and I still have this problem. What else could it possibly be? Same situation is occurring. Press forward on stalk no high beams. Pull on stalk high beams work. Stumped.

 

Time to get the wiring diagrams (back section of Bentley manual) and follow the circuit with a meter.

 

Took a look at the diagram, and your high-beams not working almost certainly has to be a problem with the headlight switch (round knob). The high beams can flash at any time because the power to the stalk for high-beam flash is always on- it comes straight from the battery. Normal headlight power goes through the ignition switch to the headlight switch, and normal high-beam power from pin 4 of the headlight switch to pin 7 of the stalk switch, on a yellow wire.

 

yl,

Thanks for checking. When you say headlight switch (round knob) are you talking about the switch to turn the headlights on and off located to the left of the steering column? With that being said, can the wire be replaced or would it involve a new harness, if that is possible to repair?? I remember the first signs that something was going on was when I put my high beams on and there was a slight delay before they went on. It did this several more times before they just stopped working altogether. Not sure if this behavior suggests anything but I thought I would mention it.

Also, after I got done with putting the steering wheel back on and reconnecting the air bag, my air bag light remains on. Is this something I can correct or will it eventually correct itself? I assume its on because I removed the air bag to work on this? I know I reattached the wires to it.

Thanks!

Mark

 

I would tend to blame bad contacts in the headlight switch (yes, left of column) rather than the wire, but you'd have to check that to know for sure.

Airbag light: might be on if you turned the ignition switch to "ON" while the bag was disconnected. On my A4, I have to use VAG-COM to clear the airbag fault.

 

Mark - Sounds like you have a bad headlight switch, as ylwagon has already suggested.

If anything related to the airbag system was unplugged while the car's battery was connected, it will throw a code that will not clear on it's own, and must be reset using vag-com. I'm not sure if any aftermarket code readers can reset the light or not.

 

soundguy,

That's exactly what happened. I wanted to see if the switch had solved the problem before I put everything back together. I did see a warning on the display that said Air Bag Fault right after that and the warning light stayed on even after I re-installed the air bag. Oh well. I take it this headlight switch is simply (bad word I suppose) removing the switch on the dash? This is the control that turns lights on and off and also turns on fog lights? Or is it a switch that is behind the dash or part of the steering column?

Thanks!

 

The headlight switch being talked about is the round device to the left of and lower than the steering wheel. It's simple to remove and replace. Below is a youtube video to show you how it's done. I have vag-com and can clear that airbag code for you. We can also swap headlight switches to confirm that part is in fact the problem. If you do end up replacing the switch, look into the Euro Switch which has more positions than the stock switch.

 

Problem solved. I appreciate all the assistance!

Steve In Chicago, I may take you up on clearing the air bag code. I went to AutoZone and asked if they could clear the code but they said they can't because of the liability. I would have to take it to a dealership so they can diagnose the issue. Soundguybob is dead on. Car threw an airbag fault because I made the mistake of reconnecting the battery. I rechecked the airbag connections to the steering wheel and they are in place.

Steve, how can I get to you? I am in St. Charles.

Thanks

Mark

 

I'm downtown, probably an hour drive from St. Charles. I'll PM you my contact info.

 

I have this same problem that started after my alternator blew. I replaced the headlight switch and that did not fix it. I replaces relay 381 and that did not fix it.

are there other relay/fuse areas other than below driver side dash & left side of drive side dash?

 

There are no relays in the headlight circuits except the DRL relay, and the headlights work fine without that.
It looks like you probably have a faulty stalk switch, or possibly faulty wiring.

Start a new thread with all your car details at the top:
Then list your symptoms in detail.

 

I've seen this exact thing three times in my 2003 GLS Wagon. There is only one contact in the stalk switch that handles the current for both head lights. H7 bulbs are 60 W and will draw about 5 A each for a total of 10 A through that contact. The contact gets hot enough to melt the plastic that actuates it. I've had it fail such that the high beams don't work and I've seen it fail such that the high beams can't be turned off. It's a PITA to replace the switch. Having seen this more than once, I decided to do what VW should have done in the first place: use the high beam switch to activate relays that handle the current. I installed relays for this purpose (a 20 A rated SPST relay for each side) about a year ago and have had no problems at all since. It's pretty easy to do; there are even tutorials on the web for it. The current draw through the stalk switch is now passing only about 200 mA and each relay is passing about 5 A. Do the relays and never worry about this again.

 

This thread has been dead for over a year, the OP fixed his problem and carlser started a new thread.

You can't blame VW for your switch failures when you run bulbs of higher wattage than specified by VW.

 

Strangely, I don't use high-power bulbs. I stated the current draw that mine have, which is pretty much what they should be for the standard US 60 W H7 halogen bulbs. I don't know why I've had the troubles I've had with that switch. The first failed slowly and pretty much as the OP described. The indie shop I used measured the current drawn by the lamps and found what I stated; new switch installed. The second switch failed within a month and was replaced under warranty. The third failed after about 3 months and was the last of the warranted switches. I added the relays and all is well. I have no explanation, but I assure you that the high beam bulbs are box stock and each draws rated current.

Apologies for resurrecting a dead thread.

 

Strangely, I don't use high-power bulbs. I stated the current draw that mine have, which is pretty much what they should be forvthecstsndatd US 60 W H7 halogen bulbs.

We're just used to seeing the lamps referred to as 55 W, which is the spec for standard H7.