engine? original owner!!! outstanding!!

 

The engine is the V6.

 

#1. Check your front wheel liners (if that's what you call them - the plastic in front of the wheel). Because you lost your skid plate, it likely means they aren't secure, and the headwind causes the plastic to be pushed into the tire. It wears a nice big U shaped hole in the liner, over time. Eventually you won't hear it because you've lost too much material.

 

#1. Check your front wheel liners (if that's what you call them - the plastic in front of the wheel). Because you lost your skid plate, it likely means they aren't secure, and the headwind causes the plastic to be pushed into the tire. It wears a nice big U sized hole in the liner, over time. Eventually you won't hear it because you've lost too much material.

Thanks I will take a look. Is this something I should be able to see from looking into the wheel well in front of the tire or should I look from underneath that area? Yesterday when I had my oil change the tech said there were some prongs that had to do with the skid plate and he could use tie downs and secure them for me. He went ahead and did it but last night I heard the sound again. The skid plate hasn't been on the car in several years but the sound is only something I have heard over the past few months so I kind of ruled the lack of skid plate out as the issue but I will certainly check what you had mentioned. Thank you.

 

#3 - Shot in the dark guess: when's the last time you replaced your fuel filter?

 

Fuel filter was replaced in November 2016 when the car had 156,000 miles on it. So about 13,000 miles ago.

 

#1, check your front driveshafts for play. Jack the car up (on stands) and push/pull the axle just past the inner CV boot. If there is play, it usually shows up under throttle as a vibration, but it can also make noise. I do expect it to be related to the plastic liners or the metal belly pan support.

#2, there is a procedure for pulling codes from the Climatronic. I am not familiar with it, but it should help you out.

#3, 230-240 for local commuting is normal, 300-340 for highway only driving. Is the CEL on? Has the car been scanned for codes? The V6 will run fine on regular gas until temps are 95 or above and then there will be slightly less throttle response.

 

Kinsella5 and I have been PMing about his #1 issue (the noise), and I wanted to post the same link I sent to him in case anyone is seeing this thread in the future. He said he noticed some material loss in the liner, and that is the telltale sign. The link below is a more extreme example, and more interior to where my hole developed (directly in front of the tires). It all depends on where the liner is not properly secured:

https://www.passatworld.com/forums/.../forums/volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/357390-holes-cut-front-wheel-wells.html

As I mentioned, many of us had this problem (look at some of the comments). Lose skid plate (aka splash guard, belly pan) and/or someone doesn't install wheel liner retainers properly, and then you're stuck with an ever-widening hole (there's an example pic in that thread, that's also why I posted). It may just be this a different, #4 problem, and not the source of the noise, but if abnormal wear/shredding is starting to show, it's hitting the tire at least once in a while.

 

I suspect a #4 problem. Throttle-dependent noise probably isn't related to the wheel liner.

 

I agree, as I told him in PM, and above. I only posted it to show people a pic of the symptoms of #4 (bad case). Those holes are patch-able, BTW, using mud flaps and some creative sewing with zip ties. I'm sure there are other ways too.

 

Just a quick posting to thank everyone who has chimed in here and my apologies for me being silent the last few days, just swamped with work. I will update later today with the latest for those who are curious as well.

 

A big thank you again to those who took the time to post a response and contact me directly. Here is the latest....

One thing I failed to mention in my original posting is that I have not had any type of "Check Engine" light come on, nor has one come on at all. The first thing I did was address the wheel well lining on my car. I don't have a skid plate/splash shield, and took a look at the fronts of the lining and did see holes. My friend owns a body shop so he put the car on one of the lift's and did see that there was a lot of play in the wheel well lining on the inside along with what appeared to be some rubbing. He thought that perhaps road wind was catching on it and causing it to rub thus causing that warping/cards-in-bicycle-spoke sound. He cut some bottom pieces from it and then zip-tied it down making it more secure. For the rest of that day, no sound but the next day the sound returned, so this didn't fix the problem. I did stop back in and he ran a complete diagnostics on the car. Here is what the results were:

For Engine Electronics there were three fault codes:

P1423 Bank 1, Secondary Air System: Flow too Low
P1113 Bank 1, Sensor 1: Internal resistance too high
P1131 Bank 2, sensor 1: Internal resistance too high

I did some poking around on YouTube and the internet and found that the P1113/P1131 codes are related to my O2 sensors. The P1423 could be related to the air pump and from what I read could be relay acting up.

There was another error code under AC/Heating/Electronics that came in as 00792 A/C Pressure Switch. What I have been noticing is my A/C does blow very cold but it does take some time to get to that point, however when I am idling either at a traffic light or sitting in the car for any reason, it doesn't stay cold until I start driving again. So my guess is this Pressure Switch is bad or on it's way out.

I do know a guy who used to work for Audi and VW as a master mechanic and has his own business repairing cars, but has been hard to reach because he has been swamped. He did call me this afternoon and I told him the codes. He said for sure the O2 sensors are bad, I believe I read that those should be replaced every 100K miles, I don't recall them being replaced on my car and I am at 170K. I am meeting with him in the middle as he wants to do a pressure check of the system as that warping sound could be some sort of leak as others here have pointed out. I should hopefully know more soon.

 

As far as the front inner fender / wheel well liners are concerned, not having a belly pan usually results in the fender liners getting a large hole burned through them by rubbing on the tire. Thefront lower edge of the fender liner has (2) attachment points that secure itto the belly pan.
Without those plastic anchor pins installed the front of the fender liner gets pushed up against the tire as you drive. The faster you go, the more it rubs.



Yes, these codes are related to your 02 sensors.
P1113 Bank 1, Sensor 1: Internal resistance too high
P1131 Bank 2, sensor 1: Internal resistance too high



P1423 Bank 1, Secondary Air System: Flow too Low
This code is related to the SAIP. (Secondary Air Injection Pump) It only runs when the car is first started (at least that is what it's supposed to do) for approximately (2) minutes.
Causes for the error code are usually associated to a leak somewhere in that circuit. Check the stainless steel tube the runs from the front of the engine, (there is a plastic hoses that connects to that stainless tube right next to and inside bank #1 cylinder head, that tube goes at a slight angle down to the lower right front of the engine compartment and is hooked up to the SAIP which is right next the alternator) follow that stainless tube to back of the motor (hard to see it's under the intake manifold) and it branches out into two pipes going to the back side of the cylinder heads and connected to the Kombi Valves. Many times there is a leak somewhere in this portion of the circuit.

Also check the function of the Kombi Valves with vacuum to make sure they are functioning. While checking with a vacuum source, the vacuum should hold, if it doesn't, the Kombi Valve diaphragm is bad and the valve will need to be replaced. Carbon build from the engine forms on the inside of the Kombi Valve. Engines with high mileage might have excessive build up and prevent the Kombi Valve(s) from functioning properly.
FYI, working on the Kombi Valves is a royal pain in the arse on the V6. Removing the complete air intake system including the manifold will gain you in-valuable space to work and function in.


Please acknowledge the other suggestions made here also. They arevalid points to check. Your explanation is good, but remember we are all pokingat something that we can’t see or hear.

 

Just a quick final update. Yes the upstream O2 sensors were verified to be bad. The Secondary Air Injection Pump (hopefully I termed that correctly) is also shot. I have a local mechanic who used to work for VW that I was able to connect with. He gave me a rather affordable price to replace that air injection pump and four O2 sensors. The random sound I hear every so often remains a mystery but my mechanic wants to spend some time with it. I actually sold the car today, buyer was informed of the issues at hand in detail, but was amazed at how the car looked and drove. I had a number of inquiries from people and the first person who came out bought it. I was pleased with the price, which included the repairs. I just felt after nearly 19 years of ownership it was time to get something new. I just want to thank everyone who took the time to assist me with researching these issues.