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Fuel line replacement

35K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  Incubus474II  
#1 · (Edited)
I have a fuel leak that the stealership will not fix under the R5 recall so I am looking into running all metal line from the fuel rail back to the fuel tank. I was thinking of using 3/8 "RUSSELL PERFORMANCE ALUMINUM FUEL LINES". They claim it is max Rated up to 250 psi on their website.

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/fuel/lines.shtml

I originally thought the OEM lines where plastic but they are in fact Aluminum with a Polymer coating making them look and feel plastic. I will attempt to flare the line and use a union to splice in the 3/8 RUSSELL PERFORMANCE ALUMINUM FUEL LINE. I figure I will need approx 9-12 Inches of line. I will add more tomorrow when I am done.

**original issue**
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306424
 
#2 · (Edited)
No thank you VW!!! Thank You Brruces Speed Shop

Fuel leak is no more. VW Quoted me 1090.33 + tax to replace my fuel lines. Instead I repaired the line for $76.36.

I purchased Russell/Edelbrock and XRP from Bruces Speed Shop in Rockaway NJ.

2qty #6 3/8 ID Nute Coupling part #62660570 2per package
2qty #6 3/8 ID Sleves part #62660650 2per package
2qty #6 Male union part #GRHAN815-06D
1qty Alum Fuel Line 3/8 25ft Blue
1qty #6 3/8 XRP Push Lock part #XRP230006

Things to note the stock fuel lines are 8mm *metric*. Once flared they mated with the 3/8 unions with no problems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_M3tmP1pEKE
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz39/incubus474/?action=view&current=IMG_2390.jpg
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz39/incubus474/?action=view&current=IMG_2391.jpg
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz39/incubus474/?action=view&current=IMG_2392.jpg
 
#4 ·
Outstanding!
 
#6 ·
I already have. I also Intend on Contacting the BBB and state attorney general.

One more thing to note: I was speaking to a tool and die metal worker and have discovered that the bulb in the line where it failed is a rolled joint. The two pipes are placed end to end and they use a machine that rolls to lips of the two pipes together. Still not sure why it failed. However I am sure its not normal wear and tare or as the manager at trend motors VW put it "Road Debris".
 
#7 · (Edited)
Hi, I'm in the UK where there was no recall so I also resorted to DIY costing about ÂŁ5

*UPDATED METHOD*

6" high pressure SAEJ30R6 hose 6mm bore (non braided type)
3 jubilee clips
6mm to 8mm metal hose joiner
2 x cable ties

Cut solid fuel pipe at fracture using pipe cutter.
Remove clip and cut pipe from hose.
Gently manipulate the solid fuel pipe so it lays against bracket (to allow for cable ties)
Use hot water to soften hose and force onto solid fuel pipe and fasten with clip.
Connect joiner at other ends of hoses and fasten with clips.
Cable tie as shown in pic below

Image


Image


Image
 
#9 ·
Don’t know about his but mine has done great for 6 months. I flared the ends with a brake line flaring tool before sliding the hose on.
Image



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#10 ·
Mine was good for a few months and eventually buckled and popped. Another time it just started leaking. Am I using low quality hose or clamps? I did buy the hose from oriley but it said it was high pressure fuel line. Also the hose clamps I bought long ago from Amazon.

vAg has yours never given you trouble? How much did you torque each side?
 
#13 ·
#12 ·
Regular fuel injection hose will degrade enough to leak when cold and swell when hot. Here is a pic of my car with the J30R7 that did not last on my car. I finally used the 5/16" Gates Barricade, (225psi rating,302F) to replace my fuel lines. It's far better than the J30R7 (rated for 257F) and the J30R6 (rated for 212F). I also bought matching fuel injection clamps. Since I did a swap, the V6 lines end behind the airbox and I had to run 36" lines to the 1.8T fuel rail and back. If I keep the car, I will wrap the lines to protect them even better from heat.
97567
 
#15 ·
I flared the ends of the existing line and slide fuel hose over them


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#17 · (Edited)

I did a double flare so it would not cut the inside of the hose while I slid it on. I thought about the compression unions too, but ultimately decided against it due to the flexing and movement this would see from the engine. Figured the hose would allow for that without stressing the connection.
 
#18 ·
I had a compression union put on my p/s line. It's high pressure, but not very flexible. I would double flare too.
 
#19 ·
I’ll stop by harbor freight and pick that guy up wasn’t sure since the reviews are ehh. But it looks like you’ve had good results. I don’t have it flared but I switched from the worm clamps to the fuel injector clamps and so far 4 days no leaks. Hopefully it stays that way for...ever.
 
#20 ·
Uh, it won’t. [emoji6] At least for me it did not hold with those clamps alone. The flare cured it.


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#22 ·
My problem wasn't the hose slipping off (there was nowhere for it to go) it was that it seeped around the non-flared ends and ever so slight inconsistent pressure of the clamp.