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Door switch problems?

32K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  Herman  
#1 ·
I have a V6 tip Wagon Syncro '00 since before, and today we bought a VR5 stick Wagon Syncro '99 for the lady too. (4WD is the way to go here in cold Sweden!)

It seems to be some problem with the driver door switch/sensor, the interior lighting doesn't go on when driver door opens, it works with the other doors. Could you please tell me where the door switch/sensor is located?

Also, when I use the door panel switch for the central locking, the driver door lock often goes down, and then back to open. This seem to never happen if I use the remote.
May these two problems be related?

Thanks for any help,

Regards Jonatan Lindell
 
#4 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (jonte)

I've got the same problem with the Interior Lighting as well! However, my problem happens with the Front Passenger Door.

I think Speedlvnfoo is right about it being a whole module; from looking at the service manual, it does look like all of the electronics are packed into it.

Is anyone else familiar with this assembly? Are there any of the components accessible, or is it pretty much a "black box". I want to fix mine as well; obviously, I don't want to replace the whole thing.
 
#5 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (B5fan)

The service manual, is it available somewhere on the net?

Where is this module located, in the door or in the chassis? Any pics of it?

If those modules are very expensive, maybe it could be a (sneaky) solution to make an exchange between the front and (working) back door?

I will do some more research during the weekend, to find a pattern in the behaviour of the door + lighting and/or the central locking, it would be interesting to see a scheme of the interaction between the different systems.

If the problem is mechanical, but still within the "module", maybe it's possible to fix it some way.
 
#6 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (jonte)

My door lock has been like this for several months now. I tried to get in their once and you need a special torx bit to remove the latch. The tool I believe is called a XYN socket. You have to take out the whole carrier assembly to replace the lock. I am still debating whether to fix myself or take to dealer. He charged me $400.00 to replace the back lock so I would like to fix myself as soon as I get the tool.
 
#7 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (rgwfly)

I did some more testing today, it seems my driver door switch function is intermittent. Sometimes the interior and "footstep" lighting goes on, sometimes not.

But if I unlock with the remote, open the driver door and wait 30 sec. it *always* locks all doors again, not sensing the driver door is opened. I'm wondering if the locking system and the lighting system is "seeing" the switch in different ways...

You probably mean a XZN or "spline" tool, it's like Torx but with 12 points instead of 6. Here in Sweden you can get a kit with 10 XZN bits for less than $10.

But which assembly are we talking about here? Is the switch in the actual door locking mechanism, near the external door handle?

Do you need to remove the door side too?

I'm going to get the XZN tool on monday, then we'll see...
 
#8 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (jonte)

Yes the switch is inside the door latch. Mine started out intermittent also. soon after I installed a alientech it went kaput.
According to Bently you have to remove the carrier assembly which includes the door lock/latch mechanism. This is the steel panel behind the door panel. This also includes the window regulator and various wiring components. Like I said I got about 75% into the removal and did not have the correct tool. This sounds complicated but as far as I went was fairly straight foward.
This tool is not common over here. I have to special order it for about $20.00 for one socket. If you buy this set can you verify the size of the bit--M6..M8?

<![CDATA[Yes the switch is inside the door latch. Mine started out intermittent also. soon after I installed a alientech it went kaput.
According to Bently you have to remove the carrier assembly which includes the door lock/latch mechanism. This is the steel panel behind the door panel. This also includes the window regulator and various wiring components. Like I said I got about 75% into the removal and did not have the correct tool. This sounds complicated but as far as I went was fairly straight foward.
This tool is not common over here. I have to special order it for about $20.00 for one socket. If you buy this set can you verify the size of the bit--M6..M8?

[Modified by rgwfly, 2:52 PM 9/29/2002]
 
#9 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (rgwfly)

I did some searching about the Alientech, and found out what you (probably) did to the door to install it. So this means you have to go even further to reach the door latch parts?

http://www.jwilnet.com/Graphics/Passat/Mods/alien/R0010332a.jpg

(See pic) Is this the steel panel you're mentioning?

Will I need the XZN tool only for the bolts seen from the outside at the end of the door, or are there more on the inside?

I will try to aquire the tools during the week, then I'll let you know.

If it's that hard to get those in the US, maybe I should start selling them on eBay?
Image
 
#10 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (rgwfly)

Jonatan,

After I dug through the service manual, I found out a few things.

The Door Lock Module (DLM) is the lock assembly that rgwfly identified. He was also correct, when he described taking off the metal plate before being able to access the DLM. It seems like alot of work for this fix
Image
I'm not sure if I'm going to attempt it (especially if the Door Lock Module costs big bucks!)

In regards to wiring, the DLM has one wire that goes to the Door Control Module (or DCM; that is part of the Window Regulator assembly) that lets it know when the door is open. When open, it provides a Ground signal to the DCM. This module needs to see the signal in order to perform the correct Central (Auto) Un/Locking function.

This wire is also the one that provides a Ground to the Door Puddle Lamp (when the door is closed, the signal is floating or at B+ so it stays off). I am guessing that when your door is open and it Locks after 30 seconds, the door lamp is NOT on. If it is flickering and it still does it, then the DCM is not receiving the signal (broken wire or faulty DCM), and the DLM (or wiring to it from the Lamp) is not providing a good Ground.

I do have some background with this stuff. I used to be an Electrical System Development Engineer for GM on the Corvette platform.

I will try to post some images from the Service Manual; I am having problems doing it. Or I can try and email them to you. Sorry to all for the lengthy post.
 
#11 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (jonte)

Yes this is the steel panel I was talking about. It looks complicated but like I said it really is a bunch of screws and wire connectors. You do have to release the window from the clamps behind the rubber plugs. You must tape the window to the upper door frame to keep from falling down into the door. I think the XZN tool is only needed on the outside bolts. The Bently manual is really vaque about this repair. I priced a door latch assembly online for about $125.00.
For B5Fan. Thanks for the info. I tried to determine this but the wiring content in the Bently manual makes my head spin. I am going to test the ground at the puddle light to confirm door latch failure. Another indicator this is the problem is you can lock the door with the remote with the door open and still get the confirmation Meep. Or you can turn your headlights on and open the door and there is no headlight reminder chime.
I have lived with this for several months now but planning on fixing as soon as I get the tool. I will do a write up on complications if any when I am finished.
 
#12 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (rgwfly)

You're welcome rgwfly.
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I just called a local dealership on the Passenger side Door Lock Module and was quoted $87 (p/n: 3B1-837-016-BH). Compared to this, your price of $125 sounded high since I think they are very similar (The mechs do show that the Driver side one has outputs to drive the red Security LED). I could be wrong; OEMs love to charge more just because something is a little different. Anyways, just a thought.
 
#13 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (jonte)

This is the same EXACT thing that's wrong with my driver-side front door latch!!!!

Damn it!
Image


Someone HAS to attmept to do this themselves----even if it's ME----for the well-being of Club B5 (hehehe
Image
)...it could save a lot of people a lot of money in the future!

We gotta find out more though......then I'll do it for sure as soon as I get some "direction"!!!
Image


Someone give us more info on the lock module please!!!!!

<![CDATA[This is the same EXACT thing that's wrong with my driver-side front door latch!!!!

Damn it!
Image


Someone HAS to attmept to do this themselves----even if it's ME----for the well-being of Club B5 (hehehe
Image
)...it could save a lot of people a lot of money in the future!

We gotta find out more though......then I'll do it for sure as soon as I get some "direction"!!!
Image


Someone give us more info on the lock module please!!!!!

[Modified by SDPassatT, 11:48 AM 9/30/2002]
 
#15 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (rgwfly)

I have now aquired a set of XNZ bits, and the size of the bolts at the door lock is M8.

Have also been talking to a VW mechanic who have been doing some repairs on our cars. He told me that here in Sweden, VW have issued "extended warranty" for these and related problems, like the alarm going off anytime etc.
It used to be worst with the '97 and '98 models, with lots of angry owners waiting to have their cars fixed.

He will check it tomorrow, but he thought that the warranty is valid for 36 months from the cars first day in traffic (sorry don't know the correct english expressions). But also the mileage is relevant.

Our car is just over 36 months old, but he said it might be possible to get it covered anyway.

VW could be handling this different in different countries/markets, but you get the idea.

So I won't be touching the door just yet
Image
 
#16 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (rgwfly)

RGW:

I got your back dude!....hehe..... Just make sure to do a good write-up for me!
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I'm definitely gonna do it if you don't have any problems 'cause it's been pissin' me off for a lonnnnnng time. And I'll be damned if i pay a few hundred dollars for the sheisty dealer to fix it.....half-arsed at that.

Good Luck!
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#17 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (jonte)

ARRG... I had ordered the M6 I measured 6MM inside the bolt and took a chance. I may still be able to change it. Good luck with your warranty. I had already tried here with no luck. Thanks for the info. I will try to do a write up if I can get the parts by this weekend.
 
#18 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (rgwfly)

So, has rgwfly or anybody else tried to break into the door yet?

My VW mechanic checked with the dealership, and yes there is a 36 months extended warranty, and no my car isn't covered since it's 36 months and 3 weeks old
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Anyway, he will do it for me "under the table" for $200, part included.

So I have a decision to make, and I don't want to be the first one in the group trying to do this
Image
 
#19 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (jonte)

One thing to check before you go through all of this is if the latch is functioning. The latch indicator switch senses the position of the latch and tells the control module that the door is open. If the latch is sticking a little, you won't get consistent function.

Open your door and look at where the striker (Chrome part on b-pillar) enters your door. There will be a "U" shaped part that rotates. It grabs the striker and rotates up when you close the door. You can latch it closed without actually closing the door by pushing it towards the outer panel of the door with your finger or a pen. You can then pull the door handle and it will pop back to the open position. When you do pull the door handle, make sure this part rotates out as far as it can. If you can rotate it farther, you may just need to lubrucate the latch.

If this is the case, I would say the first thing to try is some graphite dry lubricant as any oil will attract dirt and give you more problems. You could probably squirt it at the pivot and manually latch and unlatch the door.

If this lubricant doesn't work, you may have to pull the latch out and lubricate it.

Good luck.


[Modified by NVMYB5, 1:39 PM 10/7/2002]

<![CDATA[One thing to check before you go through all of this is if the latch is functioning. The latch indicator switch senses the position of the latch and tells the control module that the door is open. If the latch is sticking a little, you won't get consistent function.

Open your door and look at where the striker (Chrome part on b-pillar) enters your door. There will be a "U" shaped part that rotates. It grabs the striker and rotates up when you close the door. You can latch it closed without actually closing the door by pushing it towards the outer panel of the door with your finger or a pen. You can then pull the door handle and it will pop back to the open position. When you do pull the door handle, make sure this part rotates out as far as it can. If you can rotate it farther, you may just need to lubrucate the latch.

If this is the case, I would say the first thing to try is some graphite dry lubricant as any oil will attract dirt and give you more problems. You could probably squirt it at the pivot and manually latch and unlatch the door.

If this lubricant doesn't work, you may have to pull the latch out and lubricate it.

Good luck.


[Modified by NVMYB5, 1:39 PM 10/7/2002]

[Modified by NVMYB5, 1:40 PM 10/7/2002]
 
#20 ·
Re: Door switch problems? (jonte)

I received the correct tool. My door latch should be here tomorrow. I may attempt it that night if the mosquitos will leave me alone.
Image

$200.00 seems pretty reasonable.

<![CDATA[I received the correct tool. My door latch should be here tomorrow. I may attempt it that night if the mosquitos will leave me alone.
Image

$200.00 seems pretty reasonable.

[Modified by rgwfly, 10:53 AM 10/7/2002]
 
#24 ·
I took mine apart today....

The external microswitch was worn to a point it did not work.

Does anyone know where's the cheapest place to purchase the Door Lock Module? My local dealer wants $157 for the drivers side, PN 3B1837015E.

I bought a microswitch at Radio Shack, but it will have to be built up with epoxy or else it won't work.

Herman