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DIY: B5 V6 starter replacement

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30K views 19 replies 11 participants last post by  VWs4Ever  
#1 · (Edited)
While browsing the forum for some tips on replacing my starter I realized that there multiple tidbits here and there but not a proper DIY with pictures still active. Using this method I was able to remove the starter in a couple of hours, virtually hassle free.

Disclaimer: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY OCCUR TO YOU AND/OR YOU'RE VEHICLE WHILE USING THIS DIY.

Tools:
• Sockets – 12mm, 13mm, 16mm, 5/8”
• Wrench – 16mm, 5/8”


Steps:

1. Disconnect vehicle battery, crack front passenger wheel bolt, properly lift front of vehicle and secure on jack stands. (My personal vehicle lifting and supporting setup at bottom).

2. Removed the four bolts securing the sway bar and let it swing out of the way for now. The subframe directly behind the roll bar, highlighted in blue, is where I jack my car up from with a couple of 1x4s or so.



3. Remove the nut securing the main wires to the starter along with the plastic wire connector. It’s impossible not to break the plastic tab but it is a snug fit regardless. (Optional step: spray plastic connector with electrical contact cleaner and use a test light to check that this “trigger wire” is getting power when you turn the key)

4. With everything now out of the way start by removing the lower bolt/nut. I used a half inch drive socket wrench with an extension that was the perfect length to wiggle into the small space where the nut is and a wrench to hold the head of the bolt. I believe both 16mm and 5/8” work in this application but I believe I used 16mm for this bolt/nut combo. To start breaking the bottom bolt before backing it out I had to use a breaker bar and a little WD40. Be sure to apply gradual, consistent, “bursts” when using a breaker bar on something like this as we want to eliminate any possibility of rounding of the nut or deformation of the bolt although it should hold up fine.




(the roll bar should be removed but the picture was added later)

5. Now that the bottom bolt is removed it’s time to start on the top bolt. To get enough torque on this bolt to break it free, I went through the passenger wheel area and interlocked two wrenches together to create more of a lever action. After breaking the bolt free I used a 5/8” ratcheting wrench to remove it but it could just as easily be done with something else.



6. Once you remove these two bolts the starter can be wiggled out through the passenger wheel area.



7. Installation is opposite of removal.

Grab a beer and marvel to your significant other, roommate, parent, etc about awesome you are and how much money you just saved.





I need this small jack to lift the sill a bit before I use lift the whole front end.



Jack Stand Setup

 
#2 ·
Thanks for the nice (although somewhat brief) write up. Especially having included the pix is really helpful for people such as myself who haven't done this before.
I hope this procedure applies to 1.8T starters as well.
 
#4 ·
Been there ... done that on my younger son's 2000 S4 2.7T. We removed the lock carrier and the alternator and then pulled the starter forward through the space the alternator pull freed up. We had to finesse the starter, but it just barely fit through the opening, when held in the proper orientation.
 
#7 ·
But removing the alternator and lock carrier is horrendous. That by itself is a heck of job by itself. In Chris' method he didn't remove the alternator and still could remove the starter. So why didn't you try this way?
 
#6 ·
I've never heard of anyone actually being held responsible for car-forum suggestions
If you hire a good lawyer (read: Liar) you can easily collect several million dollars for suffering discomfort and psychological damage due to using the forum's suggestions.

Then spend that money in Vegas on chix and all kind of fun stuff. Once the money is gone then come back and start another DIY and call the lawyer again :lol: :lol:
 
#11 ·
when i did my starter this spring i took off the passenger wheel and was able to work the bolts out and remove the starter without anything else having to be removed. the whole job took 1.5 hours, including clean-up. still not fun but also less possibility of bolt breakage due to removing less bolts. ive got the V6 manual trans though, that may be a big difference in working space.
 
#12 ·
Its interesting that you have a stud/nut combination for the lower bolt. My 1999 has a 3 inch long bolt for the lower bolt, and now that I have the starter out, I am working to figure out how to hold the new starter in place while getting the bolt started with the other hand. ...
 
#13 ·
The Chilton manual has you go in through the front...Radiator support in service position (ugh!)...remove alternator, go for the starter. Problem for me is there is no wrench that gets to the bolts connecting starter to the bell housing. I'll try your way and give you feedeback.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Disclaimer: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY OCCUR TO YOU AND/OR YOU'RE VEHICLE WHILE USING THIS DIY.
You don't see this disclaimer much anymore. I guess it was figured out that if some guy made a DIY post on an internet forum, you'd have a really, really hard time trying to sue that guy if you hurt yourself or screwed up your car.

So I never noticed that I made basically the same damn comment almost three years ago, until re-reading the thread!
 
#19 ·
Top bolt on my B5/V6 is back to front...a real bitch to turn!!! The bottom bolt is front to back. Only slightly easier. This job is a monster. Especially on an automatic!! The auto. fluid coolant lines are in the way!!
I hate to bump an old thread but ^this needs to be made more clear. None of the write ups or videos I saw mentioned this and I'm now just reading the comments. The 30V V6 automatic has transmission cooling lines and a bracket that make it almost impossible to get a wrench on the top bolt. No size ratchet can fit due to clearance issues and I was only able to get the closed end of a 16mm/5/8 12-point crescent wrench on the bolt. In my case I wasn't able to get enough force on the wrench to break the bolt free because it's a very tight squeeze. So tight it's going to require a little luck and some engineering to get a cheater on the wrench. I have B5.5

tl;dr The automatic transmission in some cars makes this job a PITA. The lower bolt takes some creativity to get at but the top bolt is brutal and seems to require an open ended crescent wrench exclusively and a lot of muscle/leverage.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Just performed this on my 2001 B5.5 2.8 V6, manual transmission.
Checked this thread for guidance.

Was much easier that many have noted here.

Put it up in the air on an overhead lift.
Disconnect battery.
Removed right wheel.
Removed starter bottom nut and bolt.
Removed starter top through bolt.
Used 16mm combo wrenches. Not a lot of room to turn them but is possible. 1/8 turn at a time until loose. Rest of way loosened by hand.
Remove starter cable nut, then cable. Used 13mm deep socket on 1/4" drive ratchet.
Remove Black wire. The connector is the type that needs to be pinched to release.
Slide starter forward out of it's hole then back to come out through wheel well.
Once removed, slide solenoid cover off old starter (if it's still there) and install on new starter.
Reverse to assemble.
Probably 2 hours max.

Lift made a big difference I'm sure but no where near the headaches I've read here, thank-goodness. Enjoy!
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the write up as I am still on my original starter since I bought the car new in 2002. 355,000km and still going :)

My car was built in 2001 as a 2001.5 so its 23 years old.....Sometimes its hard to believe I've owned it that long