check out www.raxles.com several satisfied cb5'ers have gone there. They are supposedly the best in rebuilt joints.

 

$200 shipped for a new one isn't too bad.

Dave

 

$200 shipped for a new one isn't too bad.

Dave

its somewhere around 360 for both but i can get it done for 200 installed so if i can get them rebuilt and put them in myself it might not cost me 100

 

$100 isnt a bad price, but just keep in mind how long the rebuilt (they are prolly just reground and slapped back together) ones might last. There is a local shop here in town that does them for $40 a joint. The guy grinds the joints down, installs new larger balls with new gates, etc. Raxles uses all new joints, NOT rebuilt.

I've done business with Marty at Raxles a few times, 3 to be exact. 1st axle was an OE replacement, and it just didn't hold up to my suspension setup. So, he then developed and cross referenced VW Euro OE parts and custom built the 1st heavy duty axles for my car. I was the test mule, and so far so good. I've spent close to 6 months on the 1st heavy duty one, and now recently changed the other side to heavy duty as well as it was showing signs of clicking. I've now gone close to 10k miles on the heavy's and are going strong.

Suspension:
CPP Upper Adjustable control arms
KW V1's lowered about 2.75" all around
18x8 225 40 1 Yoko's

I also occasionally autocross this car, and have yet to have a competition on the new control arms and axles. I had one autocross when I had one HD and held up fine.

Just thought I'd share my experiences,
Steve

BTW.. lemme know if ya got questions. Any doubts, it never hurts to talk to the source directly, Marty.. he'll be more then willing to explain the differences between his axles, and the competition's.

 

just a rebild is more than 200, just buy the hd ones.....i wish i did, because if i did i wouldnt be in the shop right now

 

just a rebild is more than 200, just buy the hd ones.....i wish i did, because if i did i wouldnt be in the shop right now

nope i had a local shop quote me 200 for both installed i didnt believe him so he called right in front of me and confirmed 200 for both

 

$100 isnt a bad price, but just keep in mind how long the rebuilt (they are prolly just reground and slapped back together) ones might last. There is a local shop here in town that does them for $40 a joint. The guy grinds the joints down, installs new larger balls with new gates, etc. Raxles uses all new joints, NOT rebuilt.

I've done business with Marty at Raxles a few times, 3 to be exact. 1st axle was an OE replacement, and it just didn't hold up to my suspension setup. So, he then developed and cross referenced VW Euro OE parts and custom built the 1st heavy duty axles for my car. I was the test mule, and so far so good. I've spent close to 6 months on the 1st heavy duty one, and now recently changed the other side to heavy duty as well as it was showing signs of clicking. I've now gone close to 10k miles on the heavy's and are going strong.

Suspension:
CPP Upper Adjustable control arms
KW V1's lowered about 2.75" all around
18x8 225 40 1 Yoko's

I also occasionally autocross this car, and have yet to have a competition on the new control arms and axles. I had one autocross when I had one HD and held up fine.

Just thought I'd share my experiences,
Steve

BTW.. lemme know if ya got questions. Any doubts, it never hurts to talk to the source directly, Marty.. he'll be more then willing to explain the differences between his axles, and the competition's.

are rebuilt really that unreliable? i know its just like you said ground out and new stuff but will it be worth 100 now to not risk my cv breaking now . i would rather spend 100+ now and 360 later rather then try and save and have my cv rip apart while i am driving..what do you think?

 

Its totally up to you. Do you only want to spend $360 now, or spend close to $500 once its all said and done? You have to look at both sides of the specticle. I've riden on a chattering CV before while I was waiting for the parts to come in from Europe for the HD's. Took about 2 weeks. You just have to be careful not to gun the gas while turning, and just take the turns slow so nothing pops out. If I can survive for 2 weeks or more, Im sure you can.

BTW - I have a buddy and he went 3+ months on a busted CV before he could afford a new half shaft. At this point, the boot was completely severed from the shaft, and the joint was fully exposed to the elements. This happened during a winter, and part of a spring here in Charleston.

Steve

 

thanks for the input guess i'll try and save....i only drive my car one day a week anyway so i can go as long as it takes i still my s-10 thanks again for the info