hey everybody!, even though i did my research i was confused by all the answers, anyway, i'm going to replace my bad thermostat over the weekend now i know i'm going to loose antifreeze at this point am i going to loose all the antifreeze in the system? i bought 1 jug of G12 would that be enough?, i want to get rid of the old stuff cuz a few months ago i didn't know i could not mix the original coolant with the "green" one and i did because i was running a little low (i was at the minimum level), 98 passat 1.8T auto AEB, the antifreeze in the reservoir does not look green at all, should i buy more G12? or that 1 jug will be enough?
xLSxGaia
The one jug should be sufficient, in that you'll be filling, not flushing the system with it. The flushing should be done with clean water and/or a commercial treatment. You really do want to get every bit of the old coolant out. Oh, and when you do refill, mix the G12 with distilled water.
Maybe they now sell it premixed, but I've never seen it that way - the spare jug in the garage (I just checked) says dilute 50/50. Check with the dealer; don't use straight coolant.
Now, one could assume that if you've drained the last flush out, you can just fill by rated capacity; and so could pour in half the capacity of coolant, followed by half the capacity with water. I don't make that assumption, and mix the coolant with distilled water in a clean bucket before filling.
Distilled water because tap water contains at least some dissolved minerals, particularly calcium carbonate - and you DON'T want that in your cooling system.
Now, one could assume that if you've drained the last flush out, you can just fill by rated capacity; and so could pour in half the capacity of coolant, followed by half the capacity with water. I don't make that assumption, and mix the coolant with distilled water in a clean bucket before filling.
Distilled water because tap water contains at least some dissolved minerals, particularly calcium carbonate - and you DON'T want that in your cooling system.
^x2
BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM.
Bleed the cooling system with the engine NOT running.
Disconnect the plug to the level sensor on bottom of the reservoir and raise reservoir as far as you can (cap end about 4") and prop up while bleeding.
The bleeder is where the RHS (US Passenger) outlet heater hose connects to the heater core, undo clamp and move the hose until the bleeder hole is open, use a small
screwdriver or wire to check that the hole is fully open. With the Reservoir raised and the bleed hole open, pour coolant into the reservoir slowly until it
runs freely out the heater bleed hole without bubbles, push hose back to original position and tighten. Reattach sensor plug, mount reservoir and top up.
Drive a few miles and recheck level.
To be totally sure, you could repeat the above procedure after driving several drive cycles.
__________________________________________________________________
When bleeding, the car must not be on a steep slope.
The coolant level in the reservoir must be kept higher than the bleeder and the cap must be left off until
after the bleeder hose has been clamped.
Coolant must be flowing freely and smoothly through the bleeder when refitting the hose.
The engine MUST NOT be cranked or started while the bleeder is open. (Air would be sucked into the system)
The position of the heater controls has no effect on flushing or bleeding.
If the bleeding process is carried out correctly, there will be no air in the system.
BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM.
Bleed the cooling system with the engine NOT running.
Disconnect the plug to the level sensor on bottom of the reservoir and raise reservoir as far as you can (cap end about 4") and prop up while bleeding.
The bleeder is where the RHS (US Passenger) outlet heater hose connects to the heater core, undo clamp and move the hose until the bleeder hole is open, use a small
screwdriver or wire to check that the hole is fully open. With the Reservoir raised and the bleed hole open, pour coolant into the reservoir slowly until it
runs freely out the heater bleed hole without bubbles, push hose back to original position and tighten. Reattach sensor plug, mount reservoir and top up.
Drive a few miles and recheck level.
To be totally sure, you could repeat the above procedure after driving several drive cycles.
__________________________________________________________________
When bleeding, the car must not be on a steep slope.
The coolant level in the reservoir must be kept higher than the bleeder and the cap must be left off until
after the bleeder hose has been clamped.
Coolant must be flowing freely and smoothly through the bleeder when refitting the hose.
The engine MUST NOT be cranked or started while the bleeder is open. (Air would be sucked into the system)
The position of the heater controls has no effect on flushing or bleeding.
If the bleeding process is carried out correctly, there will be no air in the system.
hey guys just to give u and update, i changed my thermostat and now the needle goes to 190 in seconds and my heat works great now!, but i had a bad experience with the replacement kit i ordered from ECS! i tried to replace the whole thing including the housing, first the housing did not fit so i was like what the heck, i'll use the original one (it didnt look bad at all), i use the aftermarket O ring that came with the kit, it wasnt easy to keep it in place so i used a little silicon to keep it in place so it did, tried to use the aftermarket stretch bolts and they didnt fit! so i had to use original once again..... so after i got everything install fill the reservoir with G12 (50/50) and what a surprise it started leaking!!! ughhh, i had to remove the housing again and use the old O Ring and guess what?? no leaking!! (drove my car for 40 miles) i didnt want to use the old O ring but i had no choice plus it didnt look cracked or damaged at all, even though the Thermostat is the only thing that worked from the kit i hope it continuous to work....
hey everybody, wasn't sure if to start a new tread or keep this one alive, but i changed my thermostat and im still getting very low MPG, just did the math yesterday and i got 17MPG i think thats really low, this saturday im gonna change the air filter, check my plugs (changed them a year and a half ago NKG) and maybe clean the MAF sensor, i go to a gas pump that offers 10% Ethanol, is that good or bad?
Without knowing anything about how you drive your car, we can't speculate if 17 MPG is good or bad. If all your driving is at a steady 50 MPH on straight, smooth roads, then 17 is bad. If your trips are stop-and-go in a crowded city, then 17 is not abnormal. Regarding maintenance, the air filter won't improve mileage, but using VAG-COM properly surely could. Also, I think part-Ethanol fuel will lower fuel mileage slightly, because Ethanol has less energy by volume than gasoline.
2X with what ylwagon has said.
The OP has another thread where he explored the gas mileage issue somewhat.
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/42-volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/393298-do-i-need-new-gas-filter.html
I think it's difficult with the weather you have been having in NJ recently to get an accurate read on gas mileage. I would wait for Spring to settle in and run another mileage test.
The OP has another thread where he explored the gas mileage issue somewhat.
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/42-volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/393298-do-i-need-new-gas-filter.html
I think it's difficult with the weather you have been having in NJ recently to get an accurate read on gas mileage. I would wait for Spring to settle in and run another mileage test.
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