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Comfort Control Module

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112K views 25 replies 21 participants last post by  Emry  
#1 ·
Sunday afternoon, my buddy and I stopped off at Red Lobster for a bite to eat. I come out of the restaurant and the remote to disarm my vehicle doesn't work. "Well it worked 30 minutes ago", I think to myself. I paid little attention to it and was set to make a stop to get a battery for the remote before heading home. Only when I got it my car, it failed to start. Everything seemed to be OK. The radio, AC and all other components came on but the ignition would not fire. Only after trying several times to start the car did I begin to notice other things. The trunk open light in the guage cluster was flashing rapidly and there seemed to be a ticking sound associated with it. I got out to check the trunk and found it to be open and the module that controls the remote lock and unlock of the trunk was going nuts. So I unplugged the module and that stopped that. But baack in the cabin, there's still ticking. It was coming from the fuse panel. I was able to narrow it down to fuse 38. when i pulled this fuse, the ticking stopped but ignition still would not fire. I replaced the fuse with a new one and the ticking continued. By this time I had noticed that my dome lights weren't on either. I called VW roadside assistance and they insisted it was a battery issue. I didn't buy that at all. But to the young lady's defense, they aren't really there to diagnose complex issues. After giving my VIN, I asked if there was a way to reset the alarm because I thought this was alarm related. She said there isn't a way to reset the alarm on the 98 Passat but that on the 99's and up locking and unlocking the door manually 15 times and then waiting 15 minutes would do the trick. This didn't work either.

I had the car towed to Lewisville VW in Lewisville, TX.(Not my first choice). Boardwalk VW in Richardson is my delaership of choice since I have built a rapport with these guys and ClubB5 members enjoy a 10% discount but they were closed yesterday. My service advisor is David Zimmerman, but I digress. The tech was nice enough to bring me back into the shop and show me that he had the car running and it fired everytime after resetting the vehicle by locking and unlocking twice before trying to start up the car. Cleary you would think that in my midst of troubleshooting the previous day that I would had done this inadvertantly at some point. At this point, the tech hadn't even cleared, let alone isolated the faults. Once he put the scanner on the computer, it faulted all my locks and the dome lights. Tech said I had a faulty comfort control module. He also reolaced fuse 10(I think). Parts and labor on this are upwards of $500. Has anyone experienced the same symtoms? Has anyone had to replace this computer? They didn't have the part yesterday and I am starting to think I may not even need it; that what happened was an anomale of some sorts epecially since the car, dome light, and alarm work as they are supposed to now.

BTW, metroplex VW owners, stay away from the Lewisville Service department. Go to Boardwalk and see David Z. I felt very uneasy when I first got to LVW. Firstly, their diag is $97 where Boardwalk's is only $40. Secondly, I arrived early in the morning but my service advisor was trying HER best to put me a rental car. I found that odd. Lastly, the tech said something to another advisor that I don't think I was supposed to hear. He told one of the advisors to stop overcharging people. :???: :mad: Right then I knew I didn't want to give LVW another dime of my money. When I got in the car, I noticed the tech didn't even put my car back together. The replaced fuses were in the floor. I was so dsgusted I just drove off.

Any input the Comfort Control Module is appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Under the drivers side carpet where the CCM hides there is a ground wire that comes out of the plastic control housig and fastens to a stud on the floor pan. Check that connection for corrosion and any of the other plugs and wires going to the CCM. Open the plastic housing and wiggle all the connections going to the module inside. It is more likely a wire connection than the module itself.
 
#4 ·
Sorry for not having any input on your CCM, but I'd definitely like to second your disgust for LVille VW...one of the worst shops I've ever experienced, and the people there pretty much tell you flat out that they're not there to help you (i've actually had one of the head guys up there tell a friend of mine, to his face, that they weren' going to warranty his 2-month old tranny due to excessive wear on the front tires in a Jetta GLI with 17'' soft sport rubbber) but there to make money instead. It's turned into a bit of the call-center effect, where their goal is to get vehicles in and out as fast as possible.

Don't mean to hijack your thread, good luck with your CCM, and thanks for the referral to Richardson VW...i'll be heading up there soon.
 
#6 ·
I've had somewhat similar problems. I had my CCM replaced. Ironically enough, my problem started when the flap for the the fuel tank fill would not operate. Little did I know what the root of the problem was. I had even stranger symptoms. When I would try to unlock my doors, the trunk would pop. I also had problems with inoperative dome lights.

Then I had trouble starting the car several times. I would lock and unlock the driver door several times with the key figuring the remote was weak and would not disarm the ignition kill. I had the same problem even after replacing the batteries in the remote. Again, little did I know.

Finally one morning the car would not start at all so I had it towed to VW. It turned out to be a bad CCM as well as some broken connections in a harness.

It sounds like you may not have the best experience with this dealer, but I would venture to say their diagnosis is likely correct. The only question is whether or not you problem was actually isolated to some bad connections, or if in fact your CCM was actually bad.

Hope that helps for what it's worth. That's my $.02.
 
#7 ·
00dub said:
I've had somewhat similar problems. I had my CCM replaced. Ironically enough, my problem started when the flap for the the fuel tank fill would not operate. Little did I know what the root of the problem was. I had even stranger symptoms. When I would try to unlock my doors, the trunk would pop. I also had problems with inoperative dome lights.

Then I had trouble starting the car several times. I would lock and unlock the driver door several times with the key figuring the remote was weak and would not disarm the ignition kill. I had the same problem even after replacing the batteries in the remote. Again, little did I know.

Finally one morning the car would not start at all so I had it towed to VW. It turned out to be a bad CCM as well as some broken connections in a harness.

It sounds like you may not have the best experience with this dealer, but I would venture to say their diagnosis is likely correct. The only question is whether or not you problem was actually isolated to some bad connections, or if in fact your CCM was actually bad.

Hope that helps for what it's worth. That's my $.02.
Yet another good point. Do you recall about what you paid to have the CCM replaced?
 
#8 ·
I had the same problem on my 2000 1.8T wagon, the car would not start, dome lights would not turn on, etc. In my case all the problems came from the wiring harness going to the CCM, not the module itself.

Where I live there is a lot of salt dragged in the car during winter time, and even with a rubber floor mat there will inevitably be water/snow melting and being soaked in the carpet. It really is a silly place to put that module, where its wiring is exposed to so much dampeness, especially when salt is added to the mix. :crazy:

I had to replace a number of wires and everything was back to normal.
 
#9 ·
Definately check your wiring first. There has been lots of reports of the wiring going to the CCM being at fault, and not the module itself. It's in a box under the carpet just in front of the driver's seat. You can get to it without pulling the seat.

If it is the module, I have one that will probably work for you. There are something like seven different versions with the same part number. You have to look at the software with a VAG-COM setup to see the "soft-coding" number, but I'm not so sure there's that much of a difference. I tested it in my fully loaded '98, where it worked fine. If you feel you need it, we can work something out. Feel free to PM me. I'm out of town until this coming Monday, but could have someone ship it to you if you're in a hurry.
 
#10 ·
Thought provoking

You guys are great. I got some very good info. I'm a little scared to start screwing with the module and/or its wiring during the week just in case something goes wrong. I live out in the 'burbs so getting to work could be a chore if something happens. As a tech, I've always been taught to have a back out plan. There really isn't a back out plan for this. LOL. Oddly enough, everything is working fine and there are no remnants of the issue to mention. Physically nothing was done at the dealership to the module. But if I think back over the last year and some change, some strange things have happened that appear to be linked to this module or it's wiring. I will definitely take a look at it this weekend because the last thing I want is another epsiode like I endured this past weekend.
 
#11 ·
there is a lot of posts about this Comfort Control Module. most of the people who write about it have gremlins with their locks and windows, and many mention frayed door wires. my 1998 1.8 T has experienced all of these problems, but the dealer has never mentioned this component during his many attempts to fix the problem. is this a well documented problem for these cars?
 
#12 ·
the water coming into the car and corroding those wires is coming from the line that opens the hood if you guys look under the hood, in your right side by the windshield, right next to the ECU there is a hole where that cable comes from and it has a ruber "seal" it gets very old and comes out of place and gets a ton of water inside the driver side carpet, check for water under the foot rest pedal right after a storm if that spot is wet that means that water is coming from this spot.
good luck, this thing cost me $432 thanks VW for taking care of this problem, this has costs a lot of us B5 owners a lot of money, this should be a recall!!! :mad:
 
#13 ·
WHITE1.8T-B5 said:
the water coming into the car and corroding those wires is coming from the line that opens the hood if you guys look under the hood, in your right side by the windshield, right next to the ECU there is a hole where that cable comes from and it has a ruber "seal" it gets very old and comes out of place and gets a ton of water inside the driver side carpet, check for water under the foot rest pedal right after a storm if that spot is wet that means that water is coming from this spot.
good luck, this thing cost me $432 thanks VW for taking care of this problem, this has costs a lot of us B5 owners a lot of money, this should be a recall!!! :mad:
that's how water got into my b5 and did its damage
 
#15 ·
Omg

I have a 2004 VW passat 1.8T...i think its the CCM too...if u dont have time to take it to a dealership...u can open the gas tank up by goin into the trunk and on the right side u will have to take the carpet up...trust me a pain but i had esmited 55miles lift lol... but you'll see a white plastic mechnizem..use ur right hand to go to the right of it and you'll feel a metal cord and a ruber boot. just give it a tug and it will pop open ur gas tank! :driving: yes now i can put it off a little longer...im goin to go to the dealership and complain for a recall...after seein all the diffrenet models and same people go through this... i mean u think "OH MAYBE WE SHOULD FIX THIS AND PUT IT IN A PLACE WHERE IT WONT GET WET OR WATER PROOF IT" :banghead:but still in newer models...same SH!T!
 
#18 ·
i have the same problem

please help me i have a 2001 vw passat v6 4 motion glx, i was just changing my interior bulb in the back and all of a sudden, all my interior light shut off, my roof, my windows, my trunk, my gas tank door and most disappointing my CAR WONT START please am a novice i have no experience at all about cars please i dont want to spend huge money and only a student please reply me as soon as possible if you can help me
 
#20 ·
BTW, metroplex VW owners, stay away from the Lewisville Service department. Go to Boardwalk and see David Z.
Boardwalk Volkswagen (FKA Central Volkswagen and Volkswagen Stores) is not much better in Dallas area. A year ago I did the oil consumption test due to my excessive usage of oil since new but the service manager did not properly document the result. I had to do it again this weekend and the tech almost put in their Castrol GTX before I stopped him since I brought my Castrol Syntec 5W-40 which is VW approved oil. I have always been using this oil and I don’t want VWGoA has any excuse to deny my 10-year/100K-mile powertrain warranty claim. The service writer had all these info on the ticket the tech just didn’t see it. Worse the tech claimed he did the P9 service action without my permission but the fact is I have replaced the pollen filter housing gasket by myself but kept the sunroof nipples. He didn’t cut the nipples as instructed by the P9 procedure which to me he didn’t do anything but claimed the cost of performing P9 service action from VWGoA.

I have many more horrible experiences from Boardwalk VW but where else you can go? I just hate to go to VW dealers.

I've had somewhat similar problems. I had my CCM replaced. Ironically enough, my problem started when the flap for the the fuel tank fill would not operate.
I know it is an old thread. But just for the record, the remote fuel tank door release is an independent system and it has nothing to do with CCM. The circuit is a little different between B5 and B5.5. For B5, the positive is from fuse 38 in fuse holder which also provides power to all four door control modules. It goes through the switch then to the motor for fuel tank door unlock. For B5.5 the positive is from fuse 14 in fuse holder.
 
#22 ·
2001 Passat GLX 4Motion

It rained hard in Austin Last Wednesday. Accumulation of Water in rear seat driver area. Soaked it out with Towels, and next afternoon headed to VW dealer.

Rained hard again on Thursday. Then the car started acting up. Water in dome lights. Key fob doesn't work. Dome light coming on while driving. Trunk lid opening.

Now it's gotten worse. Trunk will not lock. Windows out, and Emission Workshop notification with check engine light. Interior lights won't go out while driving.

My discussion with VW-USA today was pointless to the fact that they won't admit putting out a recommendation to clean sunroof and body drains. Dealer is no better, and the service manager is clueless that there has ever been a problem.

My son had the same problem with his 2007 VW Jetta (They said his car was not covered in the class action), but his extended warranty picked it up. 7 weeks in the shop total (3+2+2) and they still can't fix it. To make matters worse, every time it goes in, something else comes out broken.

I'm taking it to a local repair shop with a good reputation where the service writer knew what I was talking about before I finished explaining. Hope they can fix the CCM without having to buy a new one.
 
#23 ·
The only documentation I can find is for the P9 recall, which is primarily for the pollen filter seal but also recommends modifying the sunroof drain tubes. As far as I know, there's no official procedure or recommendation to "clean out" the drain tubes periodically. That's one of the bits of wisdom you'll pick up here. From my time as a service manager, I know there are always a number of issues that, while well known, will never be admitted to publicly - for liability reasons. Certainly when I asked about my VW dealer cleaning sunroof drains, I was told "We don't do that."

On a 15 year old car, you're lucky if they'll even supply parts, let alone address any "design flaws."
 
#24 ·
On a 15 year old car, you're lucky if they'll even supply parts, let alone address any "design flaws."
if its got a recall, they will do the work. i just had a recall piece replaced on my car this past fall. given the dealer had to order the part from germany and wait 2 weeks for it to come in, they still honored their recall for free. it was the thicker wheel well liner.
 
#25 ·
Actually, it depends. If it's a government-mandated, safety-related recall, it probably won't expire. Otherwise, duration of the program is up to the manufacturer. It may indeed no longer be in effect. And if we're talking about sunroof drains, the P9 only included cutting the valves off the ends of the tubes, not cleaning them out, once or on a continuing basis.