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Clutch probs getting you down?

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clutch probs
3.9K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  jetfixr07  
#1 ·
Here's a fun one! A couple weeks after acquiring "The Unicorn," a new-to-me B5.5 GLS 1.8T 4Mo 5sp. Wagon, I was zipping around town one day when the clutch pedal went to the floor and wouldn't return. Though I've been a VW/Audi geek my entire motoring life, I'm embarrassed to admit that I couldn't remember if my new ride had a cable-operated clutch or hydraulic. To spare you the suspense, it's hydraulic. Carefully speed-shifting the car from Seattle down to where I live northwest of Tacoma, I set about looking for leaks. With no obvious signs of a brake fluid leak, (the clutch master and slave cylinders, although a separate system completely, are supplied from the brake system fluid reservoir,) I just assumed that unless there were a mechanical fracture of the shift fork, my issue more than likely was the result of a failed internal o-ring in either the clutch master or slave cylinder. Not terribly uncommon, given the car has over 220k miles on the clock.

First, I procured a replacement clutch master cylinder. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the new unit was constructed of metal versus the plastic-bodied piece that I removed:


Once installed, I began the PITA process of bleeding the system. Unfortunately, I quickly noticed brake fluid pooling beneath the clutch slave cylinder which is mounted to the top of the transmission bellhousing. F#%K.

So, off to buy a new slave cylinder. As with the new master cylinder, the new slave was made of metal instead of plastic. It took me a while, however, to realize that the actuator rod on the new unit was about 1/4" longer than the one on the old part. What this meant was it was impossible to get the new one up into position and compress the rod enough to get the mounting bolt hole to line up and get the bolt started. Once I figured out what was going on, I was relieved to find that I could remove and reuse the actuator rod from the old slave. Just pop the accordion boot off, replace the rod, and pop the boot back on. After finally getting the new slave cylinder installed, I once again began the bleed process.

Imagine the symphony of swearing that ensued when I again found a puddle of brake fluid forming under the brand new slave cylinder!

Apparently the problem all along had been the metal/rubber hydraulic line, which by the look of it, had found somewhere sharp to chafe against for the past 15 years. Our friends at the Volkswagen Engineering Department knew damn well that this was probable, because they insisted upon producing the line with a rubber grommet which was intended to PREVENT the rubber line from rubbing on adjacent metal structure:

It was just a matter of time before a hole developed.

Well, because I'm a stubborn and spiteful SOB, I was damned if I was gonna fork over the $171 that VW wanted for a new line. No sir. Instead, I figured I'd make use of a stainless-braided brake line that I'd picked up some years ago and modify/fabricate a solution to my problem.

We'll see how it works when I get it installed.........more to come!
 
#3 ·
Interesting, never heard of a clutch hydraulic line failure before, always the slave or master cylinder seals. Also, never seen a metal slave cylinder. Not like it is subject to a lot of heat or impacts. Good luck with the braided line retrofit (I would have just gone to the junkyard for a replacement line). Enjoy your 4mo, 1.8t, 5-speed!
 
#4 ·
The metal slave is a more common upgrade to the S4 6sp 01E trans. I don't know if it's the same as the FWD 5sp model. I have seen a few hydraulic lines fail, probably more on the V6 and V6TT than on the 1.8T due to the heat of the driver's side cat. I put in new OEM hydraulics when I did the swap as I did not want to take a chance on 13yr old parts from the donor. I did a metal hydraulic line and slave upgrade on a stage3 S4 years ago along with upgraded linkage. It was very solid to shift after that.
 
#5 ·
Just in case someone with a similar issue stumbles upon this thread, the line I fabricated using a stainless-braided flex hose did the trick beautifully. I don't remember where I got it, but at some point I ended up with a couple of stainless brake lines that for whatever reason I never installed on whatever project I was working on at the time. I just happened to find them not long before the issue at hand, and as stated in an earlier post I didn't see any reason why it wouldn't work to replace the ruptured rubber section of the clutch master-to-clutch slave cylinder hydraulic line.

All I did was cut off each end (steel lines) then install fittings before flaring the tube ends. Then I went to the hardware store and bought a small variety of AN/MS adapter fittings to connect each end section of steel tube to the stainless "brake" line. The overall length of the line was obviously reduced, but was still adequately long enough to reinstall without any problems. One thing to note, however, was that I had a BITCH of a time trying to get the clutch master cylinder end lined up and connected to the master, which mounts to the firewall on the back side of the clutch pedal. What I ended up doing was removing the mount bolts (which are about a foot long) for the brake booster and moving it just enough to fish the master-to-slave line up into place and get it connected. Well to do that I was forced to remove the brake fluid reservoir and in doing so, made it necessary to bleed the brakes as well once everything was back together. Once everything was reassembled, the clutch bleed went pretty quickly and I set about bleeding the brakes which I have done a gazillion times. Got the lines flushed and all of the air out. However......even with a solid brake pedal after all was said and done, it was immediately obvious that something wasn't quite right on the post-maintenance test drive. Brakes were spongy and the brake pedal would gradually move to the floor unless I pumped them up. Felt just like air in the lines. When I got back to the house I did a quick online search to discover that I needed to bleed the ABS pump, using a VAGCOM cable. F*#K. I had sold my Ross-Tech VCDS cable when I sold my Audi. Made an appointment with a local VW shop to have them perform the ABS pump bleed, which took them less than an hour. Once that was done, I was back on the road with no further issues!