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Clicking CCM, car won't start

7.7K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  phoenix&gryphon  
#1 ·
Hi folks. My name's David, live in Wilmington, NC. As you can tell by my join date, have been lurking and learning from you unbelievably knowledgeable folk for about a year. I have managed to figure all of the issues I've had with this car from old info. I have hit the CCM wall, and need some guidance.

I've got a '98 1.8t auto, 168k or so. For a couple weeks now, the interior lights haven't worked, and the puddle lights and trunk light were doing a periodic pulse, like once a second it would flicker. I could hear the clicking of the ccm each time. Car ran fine, aside from I think an unrelated engine thing, plugs wires or something. Random misfire.

So, my wife took a trip to Sams a few days ago, and she called immediately to say the security led at the lock was flashing wildly, and the corresponding ticking, like a time bomb she said. She locked the car with the key at the trunk spot, as both door tumblers spin around. Needless to say, she couldn't unlock the car from the trunk when she came out. Nothing. I had to jimmy the back seat latch with a curved screwdriver. Car wouldn't turn over. Dash lights on normally. Went and fetched a matching CCM from the pick and pull. Top numbers matched, just not the second line. Anyway, installed, still ticking wildly, but the car would turn over. Turned it on and off several times, seems like i would be able to get it home. In my infinite wisdom, I began to try to pinpoint the fuse that would cause the clicking to stop. It was the 38 fuse-power locking system and trunk light.

But now, after putting it back in, no start. At all. No manner of things would make it right.

To answer some things i know that you all ask most new posters: I have not had it scanned with VCDS, don't have it. I also haven't dug deeply into the wiring harness yet, to search for corroded wires. It's been probably 9 years since I had water intrusion, but it was only on passenger side. Never driver side. CCM and harness look surprisingly good, on first glance. And it's dry there.

I'm puzzled by the starting and then not starting. My suspicions: One of the door lock mechanisms, or trunk mechanism causing antitheft to kill engine. Windows and door locks work from master door switch, so maybe it's not the CCM? Also, while it's clicking, i can hear a relay behind the steering wheel clicking too. I unhooked all puddle lights and trunk electronics, still clicking.

Anyone have any inkling what this combo of things might mean? i'd love some input before I go tearing the door panels off. i am going to dig into the harness, and check that out now that it's towed to the safety of my carport.

Thank you guys so much.

David
 
#2 ·
If you replaced the CCM and the problem persisted then it is not the CCM itself. The clicking you hear is coming from one of the relays on the auxiliary relay panel right below the steering column. To access that panel you need to take 4 (2 right below the fuse box, 2 below the steering wheel) metric size 8 hex-screws. You need to figure out which relay is clicking. It is likely relay 185 (Taxi Alarm Relay) that is sticking. Pull the offending relay out and test it. You can search the net how to test a relay, you will need a voltmeter. Good luck.
 
#4 ·
No worries, it sounds daunting but it is easier than you think. If you can pinpoint which relay it is, the only think you need to do is to get the same relay from a local auto parts shop and see if that solves your problem. As I said, relay 185 is a common culprit of such problems. Hope that is the only thing to it.
 
#5 ·
To get it to run without clicking, remove fuse 14, and bypass the contacts of the relay in position 12 on the 13 position relay carrier.

It looks like you have a problem with the floor harnesses and grounds or the CCM, you can get this fault without water ingress.
I suggest you completely unwrap all of the CCM/TCM harness and pull the wires apart to find the splices, any corroded splices
need to be cut back, soldered, and covered with marine grade heat shrink tubing. (You might need to add short wires to replace what you cut out)
Also check ground connections (1 on floor and on "A" Pillar), and check CCM/TCM and "A" Pillar connectors.


Have a good look at these links, before you start.

NOTE: The car in this DIY is UK RHD, this doesn’t matter, the CCM is always on LHS.
VW Passat CCM harness repair | HeadFUZZ

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/230249-water-ingress-solutions.html
 
#9 · (Edited)
Well, some progress. I overlooked a blown fuse 14, in my stressed haste. Replaced. I went on and took Tomvw's advice and dug into the CCM/TCM bundles. The TCM bundle had no splices to be corroded, so it's buttoned back up. But most of the CCM splices had some degree of corrosion, but not enough to kill all the wires. I fiddled with most, and decided to see if this had helped anything, before I got into soldering. Well, the clicking stopped after the fuse was replaced, and the alarm was not going like it had been during an earlier start attempt.

Edit:

So the starter is actually fine. The car eventually tried to start, but was very hesitant. It would eventually run, but very poorly, with some smoke. It wasn't doing this when it died Tuesday. Not sure if something in this diagnostic process caused it to go into limp mode.
 
#13 ·
Soooo. I kept trying to turn it over, and eventually I was able to get it to idle, and stay running. Sat for too long i guess. Which gets me back to my original intentions of doing some much needed plug wire harness replacement, vac hose/check valve/N75, etc maintenance.

I am so appreciative of all of you guys input, and suggestions. It's very reassuring. Hopefully, I won't have to look for more help, but not likely, with this old girl. Have a good weekend all. Cheers.

David