Aside from the generic advice (check spark, fuel, and compression) did you by any chance crank it with the coils out but connected? I think I remember someone ruining a set that way, shorted to ground.

 

Since post I checked spark and all plugs are firing. Fuel pump is running.

When we cranked it nothing up top was put back together, so no the coils were not on. One plug I just took out was black and the others were fine, all the plugs are brand new. It is acting like a car out of time, but we have followed everything by the book.

 

Do a compression check. With a new head, the compression should be around 175PSI or higher.

With the engine at TDC, can you post a picture of the head/with timing marks?

Also, how did the cam journals appear when you removed the old head?

 

def. check the compression

 

Im not with the car right now, but I can get some pictures posted this afternoon some time. The cylinder head I put on is absolutely brand new not rebuilt, or remanufactured. It came with new cams, and everything except chain, and tensioner. knowing this do I still need to do a compression check?

 

I wouldn't think so. After all, what could be wrong? You have fuel and spark; the fact it won't start is clearly due to evil spirits, not compression issues.

(Yes, you should still do a compression check. It's a nice alternative to taking it all apart to check assembly).

 

Ohiojosh, open the UserCP and fill out the information about your car and your location. There are plenty of fellow enthusiasts here that may be willing to help if you tell people where.

The compression check will indicate if the intake cam is off a tooth. This could cause the car to not start.

Did you check the cam journals on the old head? Were they scarred/scored from oil starvation?

 

Thanks for your help, I filled out UserCP.

I will do a compression check in the next couple hours, as well as get pictures on here. When I do a compression check, what sort of indication will alarm me that the intake cam is off a tooth.

The cam journals did not seem to be in bad shape, but I will get a picture of them so you can judge.

 

compression of about 90-130PSI would indicate a cam is off a tooth.

 

I have pictures but I can't for the life of me figure out how to post pictures on here.

 

how to post pictures:

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233145

 

Here are some pictures.

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could be the cam chain off. What does your compression say? Undo the feed fuel line and have someone turn the key on, see if it pours a good stream.
Just noticed your crank pulley is holding by only 2 bolts. are other 2 holes accessible for bolts? As far as marks they look too good. Mine is half a tooth off.

 

We did a compression check and they all came up 135 or higher. It appears that everything is correct as far as timing. My car was very hard to start just like this before we changed the head. It had overheated a few times, and became increasingly hard to start, almost like it had a wet distributor. We figured the warped head, or blown head gasket was causing this, but now that that stuff has been repaired, it is still starting this way. Could it be a problem with the computer?

 

Are all the sensors hooked back up and the vac lines correct?
Is the check engine light on when you first turn the key to the on position?
Check all the fuses.

 

As far as I know the sensors are right. Me and two experienced mechanics have combed this car for things like that since two days before my first post. We checked the fuse panel as well. One fuse was bad and we changed it but it did not help. Im not sure about the check engine light now, and Im not with car to check. But as long as I have had the car the "maintenance required" warning always came on shortly after I turned the car on. We did suspect the engine speed sensor, but it appears to be okay as well.

 

temp sensor. That is the only thing i can think of to keep it from starting if all else is well.did you foul out the spark plugs? If the fuel lines were empty it will take some cranking to get it fired up also.
Maybe adapt the throttle body too.
these are what I would check
if the engine light lights all is good, if it does not then there is a problem.

 

I will check the temp sensor. Would the extreme over heating cause the temp sensor to fail?
The spark plugs were new and it wasnt starting then. All of the trying has probably fouled them out now (or mostly). it is definitely getting fuel as we have had to take the plugs out and dry them off multiplpe times to ensure It wasnt flooded.

What do you mean "adapt the throttle body", and "if the engine light, lights"?

Thanks for your help

 

Do you mean the coolant temp sensor?

 

You said you got "135 or higher" on your compression, was this done on a cold or warm engine? your numbers will be lower on a cold engine.

when it starts, does it stay running? if not, how long does it run for? hows is the idle?

You can do the adaption by just removing the negative connection you’re battery and letting it sit for 5-10min. Connect the wire, turn your key so just the lights on your cluster light up & you’ll be able to hear the throttle body clicking around. This clicking lasts a minute or so. If you have access to a VAGCOM, follow this method
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/throttlebody.html

You replaced the cam chain tensioner gasket right?

 

The 135 came from a cold engine because we havent gotten it started.

Before the engine work, it was increasingly hard to start, in fact the last time it was started we jump started it by dropping the clutch. When we did that it would only stay started by sitting in it and keeping it going. We had to shut it down though, because there was to much unburned fuel in the catalytic converter from trying to start it and it was cherry red.

I did replace the CCT gasket as well as the half moon seal.

 

Timely thread:

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=318036

 

135 is way low for a 'new' head gasket and head. But if it's a solid 135 across the board... Did you check the timing marks BEFORE you took your engine apart? I did the head gasket on my old '87 Golf in my backyard years back, and when it went together I double-checked the install. The timing marks were WAAAYYY off, but the timing was correct. Had I lined up just the marks, it probably wouldn't have ran...

 

I changed the temp sensor, nothing changed. I also tried the adaptation instructions. We did not mark it, which was a bad mistake, we have followed the directions since, so if the car marks are off then it is out of time. But then I dont know how I will time it.

 

Take the VC off and align the keyways on the cams to TDC. Make sure the crank is also at TDC at the same time.

 

Some times these things will crank and crank if the lifters are not pumped up. It will still run if the cam is off o tooth either way but it will throw a CEL.

 

I have taken off the valve cover so many times and adjusted one tooth either way probably eight times. All the keyways line up at TDC. I don't see how it can be the timing. Through our trial and errors we would have had it close enough in time to at least start poorly. It is not starting at all. Everytime we made adjustments we craked it over by hand as well to be sure and not bend the valves.