You can't swap in a K03 turbine housing. The turbine wheel rotor will not fit inside. Is any part of the broken bolt sticking out? If so, hit it with a ton of heat and try a pipe wrench. That's worked for me under this kind of circumstance.

 

Well that's a bummer but good to know, thanks. The bolt broke off below the surface so I think I'm going to have to try to have someone drill it out.


So any hints on taking this thing apart. I need to separate the housing from the turbo. I've loosened a few bolts but they seem too long to unscrew completely. I'm sure it's simple but I need some reassurance before I destroy my turbo further.

edit: I got it apart, just for others taking apart a turbo for the first time, you do just keep unscrewing the six bolts. Unscrew them all until the top of the head hits the metal (I think 3 of them did this) then unscrew them evenly and it forces the housing apart. Tap it on the cement and it popped off for me.

 

You could try heating it up and using a small punch to try to rotate the bolt. I've done it, but the bolt can't be too deep.

 

It's a good 1/4" below the surface and that bugger is in there tight.

 

Hate to say it,

"Drill, Baby, Drill"

 

Yep, had it drilled out and helicoiled for around $120 and should have it put back together soon. What an incredible pain in the ass but I can only imagine the bill from the dealership if it wasn't for passatworld. Thanks for the help.

 

It's a bit too late for me to say this, but you could have had somebody weld something to the top of the bolt and take it out that way. I had this problem twice. The first time, the bolt was drilled out (I had no luck with helicoils, and eventually had to replace the whole housing). The second time, my friend's dad helped out by welding a piece of metal to the top of the bolt and taking it out that way.

From that point on, I made sure I used anti-seize on those bolts.

 

Broke a bolt on this bad boy. Its sticking up a little. Have hit it with PB Blaster and Heat, nothing else done yet.

I don't have a welder. But was thinking to try Vice Grips first. Then to try drilling and removal with this left thread bit.

Anyone else have an idea?

 

is the tip of the easy-out/extractor in the bolt?

 

If you have access to get a drill on it that should do it. A lot of times the heat and vibration from the drilling as well as any 'shrinkage' when the center of the bolt is missing will allow the extractor to just pull it out. In my limited experience, if you have clean access to drill the hole you should be fine.

Vice-grips would probably be quicker so try that first. You can also tap it (a lot.....like 100 times) and use lots of penetrating oil. Plus give the oil time to do its job. I'd oil it, tap it 50 times, then repeat that every day for a few days then try vice-grips. If that doesn't work or you can't wait, drill it out.

 

sorry but mis-read 8 year old post, O.K. first things first, it is a bolt and not a stud. Bolt is therefore not bottomed out in hole versus a stud which stops or as threaded area either hits the bottom of hole or stud runs out of thread.......pretty sure it is 10mm, cannot recall pitch, think 1.25. Assume is did not move at all when trying to remove. The threaded area of the bolt and threaded hole are only touching/make contact on one surface there is a gap on the "bottom side/edge " of the bolt threads and "top side/edge" of the threaded hole. Take a 1/8 or 5/32 inch drill and after center punching "steer" the drilll by eye as close to center,and once centered and perpendicular drill clear through bolt ,you'll feel it when it gets through bolt,heat up and spray B'laster in hole (safety glasses please) you do not have to get real hot, let cool, repeat,repeat Let "digest" couple hors........next take a hammer and give it a good strike on head,well whats left. this will drive bolt away ever so slightly from torqued/binding surface. then vise grips...... now if this fails, using hole you just drilled, using correct size drill, size hole for an easy out , too big an easy out will make it worse as the taper on it will expand bolt,too small and if easyout (which are harder than hell) breaks off flush , you will have to get it EDM'ed out. Now if easy out does not does not work, progressively drill hole to 11/32, just threads should be left, re-tap and ready to go.

 

if you use extractor/easy-out, size to use is #3extractor (etched in shank) and drilled hole needs to be 13/64ths

 

How much did u heat it up?
Heat it up until its freakin red and then try with locking vice grips. Doesnt hurt to hit around the area ( not the bolt) all around before doing it too

 

With that much sticking out, you can grind a nice slot in it and then use a hammer-impact with a flatblade.

This style: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Impact-Driv...m/Impact-Driver-Set-15-Piece-1-2in-Drive-Mechanics-Tools-TENID515-/332255896460