How about tires, so you can actually put the power down to the ground?

 

chip definitely gives u the most hp increase for the price. i have APR 93 octane running and its great. i would also recommend getting the n75j valve. it's a pretty cheap upgrade ~$70.

with more hp, u will realize the need to replace the stock shock and springs tho.

 

chip definitely gives u the most hp increase for the price. i have APR 93 octane running and its great. i would also recommend getting the n75j valve. it's a pretty cheap upgrade ~$70.

with more hp, u will realize the need to replace the stock shock and springs tho.

Depending on the chip he goes with, a new N75 valve may cause problems. Case in point: I am putting in the 1.1 bar chip and if I were to change the N75 valve for that extra few PSI, my turbo would constantly be running at over the 18 PSI limit of the turbo. From what I read a new N75 valve will probably work best with a .8 bar chip.

There is thread out there discussing the pros and cons of the valve.

 

true, there are some ppl having problems with the n75j valve. i am pretty lucky i guess. i have a 2000 1.8T tip passat with APR 93 octane program and forge 007 diverter valve and the n75j valve and so far so good.

 

Chip :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Intake :thumbdow:
Downpipe (with rest of exhaust upgraded) :thumbup: :thumbup:
Downpipe (w/o exhaust) :thumbdow:
Underdrive pulley :thumbup: (but most cost effective to do with timing belt/water pump change)

Other:
upgraded DV after chipping :thumbup: :thumbup:
ITG foam air filter :thumbup:
N75 :thumbup: :thumbdow: (depending on chip purchased)
Tires :thumbup: (how can you beat good rubber)
Suspension :thumbup: (same as good tires, but watch it if you have bad back or don't like a sporty ride)
Brakes :shock: (Who needs to stop anyway, downshift and change lanes)

 

Brakes (Who needs to stop anyway, downshift and change lanes)

yeeuh, couldn't have said it better myself :thumbup:

 

Chip :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Intake :thumbdow:
Downpipe (with rest of exhaust upgraded) :thumbup: :thumbup:
Downpipe (w/o exhaust) :thumbdow:
Underdrive pulley :thumbup: (but most cost effective to do with timing belt/water pump change)

Other:
upgraded DV after chipping :thumbup: :thumbup:
ITG foam air filter :thumbup:
N75 :thumbup: :thumbdow: (depending on chip purchased)
Tires :thumbup: (how can you beat good rubber)
Suspension :thumbup: (same as good tires, but watch it if you have bad back or don't like a sporty ride)
Brakes :shock: (Who needs to stop anyway, downshift and change lanes)

That's a very colorful summary

1.1 bar chip and 2.5" downpipe back are getting installed tomorrow on my B5. The underdrive pulley and DV are the other other mods I am going to do eventually. Tires will be replaced with extremecontacts next week. Suspension will be replaced when it wears out (20k or so? I have 43k on the car now). Probably going to do Powerdisc slotted rotors and mintex red pads (or something comparable). That should help fade but I don't expect braking to be better, just more consistant. Even with just the chip and the exhaust I am exceeding factory specs on the drivetrain, I don't want to kill my tip any time soon. I think for the mostpart your list is pretty good for stage I and some stage II stuff. I removed my prefilter screen on the airbox and noticed a nice increase in pull. What's this ITG air filter you mention. I have never heard of this. Is it something like the K&N? I plan on just using a stock air filter.

I wonder if the person that started this thread is going to read all of this...

 

The ITG filter is available from AWE and a few other tuners and works along the same lines as a K&N. I liked it better because it is reported to flow a little better than a K&N and is much more tolerant to dirt load-up. ITG claims 100,000 mile life before cleaning/replacement and I figure if that is even half accurate, it's great. Also, I can't recall any cases of MAF contamination from this filter. The material used on the foam to help trap the dirt is super sticky, like tar.

 

The ITG filter is available from AWE and a few other tuners and works along the same lines as a K&N. I liked it better because it is reported to flow a little better than a K&N and is much more tolerant to dirt load-up. ITG claims 100,000 mile life before cleaning/replacement and I figure if that is even half accurate, it's great. Also, I can't recall any cases of MAF contamination from this filter. The material used on the foam to help trap the dirt is super sticky, like tar.

I'm going to jack this thread because I don't think the guy that started it is reading it...

That's good information. I'll take a look into it. I considered the K&N, but concluded that the material might actually let smaller particles through, therefore decreasing engine life. I don't have anything to back that up and I know K&N is used extensively in drag racing. That doesn't necessarily mean that it's good for our cars though.

Do you have to re-apply sticky stuff to the ITG filter or is it good until you need to change it? I'll check out AWE, I can probably get the answers there.

Thanks.

 

I've cleaned and reoiled my K&N on 3 different cars, and I've never had a CEL yet...

YMMV.

 

I've cleaned and reoiled my K&N on 3 different cars, and I've never had a CEL yet...

YMMV.

YMMV is right. I think most issues with the K&N stem from over oiling and screwing up the MAFS over time. Did you do the K&N for the convenience of not having to change the filter every 15-20k miles or for performance gains or both? The reason I ask is that it seems there is little or no gain to performance from what I have read. I have seen people report hearing the diverted air squirt back into the airbox, but thats about it.

Happy 150th post for me...

 

I've cleaned and reoiled my K&N on 3 different cars, and I've never had a CEL yet...

YMMV.

YMMV is right. I think most issues with the K&N stem from over oiling and screwing up the MAFS over time. Did you do the K&N for the convenience of not having to change the filter every 15-20k miles or for performance gains or both? The reason I ask is that it seems there is little or no gain to performance from what I have read. I have seen people report hearing the diverted air squirt back into the airbox, but thats about it.

Happy 150th post for me...

I changed from paper to K&N for both reasons (hopefully to gain a little hp & convenience of not changing as often) I have heard a few people talk about a CEL after re-oiling.... I usually keep a paper filter around & put it in for a few days so the K&N can can soak in the oil (I'll re-oil it & keep it on a shop rag to soak up any excess oil) no CEL yet.