If you keep that sound system routinely cranked up, no alternator is going to be very happy with it. I wouldn't be shocked if they used below-spec (but usually adequate) parts as part of the reman process, and the high-power sound system is making the electronics unhappy.

 

I havent got around to putting a sub that can handle that much power in just yet, but recently it hasnt been using over 300watts for sure because i dont want to blow the smaller subs.

So its usually at a normal listen level.

 

300 watts shouldn't be a problem for the alternator.

Most likely the alternator brushes are worn, but there are other possibilities. You can buy and replace just the brushes.

 

I would check the grounds and battery terminal connections first.

 

Check all the connections like said before, but don't be surprised if it's just the quality of the alternator.

 

I'm doubtful the sounds system is or will be the problem. A "1200" watt amplifier will be drawing less than 1/10th that 99% of the time; 1200 watts of sound energy on a continuous basis would likely kill the inhabitants of the car. (Insert obligatory rant about the dangers of ridiculously over-powered amps to your hearing, here) Most likely, you've just been sold crappy alternators. A cousin and brother-in-law of mine are both in the auto-parts business, and advised me against mass market rebuilds - said most of the time "rebuild" means new brushes and a coat of paint.

 

Ill check the ground and power wires for resistance tonight after work. If they check out good should i check the brushes? I also dont like mass market reman parts. Im also haveing fuel pump problems from autozone. Ive decided im not getting parts from them anymore.

 

Have you checked the battery to make sure that it is in good working order?

 

No, but the battery is one year old and starts with no problem. I can also test that tonight.

 

I had the battery light come on in my car not to long ago. I chaecked the battery, and it checked out good. I went ahead a replaced the alternator. It was completely shot. Have you had any oil or other fluids drip or soak your alternator?

 

No fluids drip onto the alternator. Also, i test the battery and it is fine. I did a voltage drop test between the alternator and battery and had .43 vdc. Any other suggestions? :/

 

I know it sounds silly, but have you checked the main harness connection to the back of the alternator? It could have come a little loose, and is not making a great connection. It could also have gotten a little dirt in the harness connection if it is loose.

 

It could be a bad connection in the wire from the small terminal on the alternator to the cluster.
But most likely a fault in the alternator, probably brushes.
It is very unlikely for any other fault to cause the battery/alternator light to come on.

 

Ill check the connector tomorrow after work.

How likely is it that im having that many problems with alternators though. Afterall this is my 3 reman.

 

3rd alternator from the same source. Buy a different kind or ask them to sell you a new one, not a reman.

 

That is typical of reman alternators. Repair it yourself, get a new one, or get it repaired by a good local auto electrician.

 

I really want to get it rewound to 200amp for audio reasons. And a new one is rather expensive. My best bet would be to repair, assuming that it is the brushes. Ive already found a write up on how to repair the brushes on here. Auto zone or advance carries those right?

 

How much power are you planning to push? I was running 1600 rms with a sundown Z and a small kinetic battery added in the trunk and the power was there with not a lot of drop. You should buy a steering wheel gauge pod from newsouthperformance and find a voltage gauge of your taste off ebay and tap it in with dim adjuster to turn on and dim cluster together. If you're going into audio I highly recommend it. It's a big plus when monitoring your voltage drops and peaks.

 

You need to look at the back of the alternator and see if you can pull the case off. My original that I just replaced, I was going to just replace the brushes, but the back case didnt just unscrew.

 

Auto zone or advance carries those right?

I don't know if they carry the brushes, but you can get them on eBay in UK.

If it's a Valeo:
1) Remove the plastic cover from the back.
2) Remove the regulator.
3) Remove from the regulator, the little cover that fits over the slip rings.
4) Replace the brushes.
5) Fit the regulator to the alternator.
6) Then fit the little cover over the slip rings.
7) Refit the back cover and your done.

 

I hope mine is able to come off, afterall it is a valeo.
Thanks for the directions Tom. Ill order some brushes then after the repair ill let you guys know if that fixed it

 

I finaly had time to install my brushes. I wasnt aware they were lead. They sand very easy on 150 grit sandpaper. Anyways, i replace one of the brushes because the other brush was almost brand new. The other had a good amount missing. Ive had it back together and running perfect for the past three days.

 

The brushes are not metal, they are graphite and you should not be sanding new brushes.
I'm happy to see you have it working.

 

Tomvw, you have to sand the sides of the JX94 brushes to make them a perfect fit. But i thank you.

Evilpulse8, ill be pushing a little of 1200 watt rms. I may look into a second battery but right now i have a cap.
I already have a boost gauge so i would not be able to do a voltage gauge but i may put on in under the steering wheel.

 

Throw away the cap lol
You're good with 1200rms. I started that way, there will be some dash dimming but no headlight dimming. I would recommend doing the big 3 upgrade. If you lived in my area I'd do it for you for free. I have a lot of 0 gauge and 4 gauge wire.

 

Thanks evilpulse8. I have yet to do the big 3 but when i do ill use 4 gauge monster cable, the best cable there i
I wont be getting rid of the cap because it makes a 200cca difference. Lol. I dont have dimming headlights either because i have hid fogs and head lights.

Thanks for the advice.